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Start with the LTFT.
If the cat failed on a 2.2, I suspect that is a symptom, not the cause.
Get the live data readings.
And personally, I think your mechanic is inept, sorry.
How did the mechanic fix it? Looks like he cut the pre-cat out with an acetylene torch. But did he weld in a new pre-cat or just weld in a piece of pipe to bridge the gap? Or did he install a new down-pipe and cat from the manifold?
AIUI the pre-cat is part of the Euro 4 emissions compliance. Most Omegas are Euro 3, however 2.2 16V MY2003s are Euro 4. Not entirely sure how it works but the intent is to light-up the main cat(s) faster. Presumably by the pre-cat heating up quickly (due to proximity to the exhaust manifold) and burning off excess hydrocarbons in the rich(er) cold start mixture, such that the downstream exhaust gas is hotter.
Certainly my 2003 2.2 heats up significantly quicker than the 2.5 V6 with (working) secondary air injection into the exhaust manifolds.
For the purposes of any official testing my guess is that it won't matter if the pre-cat is missing so long as the engine and exhaust is warmed up before the test. Not sure about the UK however?
Anyway glad to hear it's working.
, what he did is cut that cat and replace it with a straight pipe , im not sure its really a Catalytic Converter , because it doesnt seem to have any kind of stages or anything similar to a real CAT it is just a piece of pipe that have some round metal rings that have small holes in them , i think the previous owner took it to some cheap exhaust shop to replace some parts and this is what they came with
Crap fuel probably killed it and once blocked, it quickly builds back pressure leading to all the other issues...
When was the fuel filter last changed. As that might be one problem. Over heating check the thermos resister under the battery tray. They can work standing and then driving they fail. Check the fan works unplug the thermal switch on the radiator and on the wiring plug connect the pins and see if the fan comes on in both speeds. As for engine slowing down it could be the manifold leaking they do tend to get a crack between position 2 and 3. Could also be the tank vapure line damaged or has a slight leak. Could also be a vacuum line leak. Or a vacuumed difrm leaking on the egr or other boxes on the lines. Would need a vcume line tester pun and connect to a vaccine line and run engine to see if it’s fluctuating.Blocked cat apparentlyHere is an Update on my Case , i couldn't edit my main topic and add the update to itHopefully that's the end of the problem
I Went back to the mechanic and he suspected it could be an exhaust issue , i went to an exhaust shop and he removed a part that looks like a muffler here is a photo for it:
after removing this part , i noticed an instant power gain , the car drove after it like a DREAM! , i couldn't believe what just happened! , it accelerated perfectly normal, i am now trying to understand , if that was for sure causing all the trouble i had before i replace anything , the engine overheating and poor acceleration and power
maybe this is a good idea to be in common issues sub-forum , it may help someone who had same exact issue as mine and never found a solution after changing all the things that i just changed , so if u see it is helpful please move it to the place where it needs to be so it helps someone else who could have a similar issue
Regards
have to say if thats the cat its very small. mines about a foot long and nearly as wide. must be a baffle or something.
, and yes it turned out ot be this thing which im not sure what its called a muffler or some bad low quality type of it, caused all the exhaust gasses to get stuck in the system and kill my power from engine and could possibly caused the engine extra overheating issue
It needs proper diags, not random part changing, which is what appears to have happened.
Does the EML come on?
What is the LTFT?
What is the MAF reading?
Does it feel like its misfiring?
Remove and photograph the coil pack, and post a picture here
Are the plug wells full of oil?
, i hope you are all doing fine!Hey Sir! , from what you have mentioned i can tell that you have a problem in the AC System , not sure where it comes from but i tell you from what i know , because i had an experience with this matter before , so the thing is as follows , the HP Line should be hot , i mean like real hot that is a normal thing , but the low pressure pipe should be significantly COLD to touch , when everything works as it should be make sure of the following as a checklist
- make sure the condenser fins are not clogged with Dust , particles and insects , make sure to clean it
- Make sure that the condenser fan kicks in at the right speed when you turn the AC system usually at the high speed but it could run in low speed
depending on the weather and traffic ....etc
- the amount of R-134 (Refrigerant Gas) is the right amount as mentioned from the car manufacturer which i think is (950 gram)
- there is no water moisture in the system - this can be solved by taking it to AC specialist to suck all the moisture out and vacuuming the system and refilling it with the right amount of R-134 (Refrigerant Gas)
- the compressor is not working efficiently (could be a bad compressor) - it is recommended to change the Receiver Dryer when you change the compressor
- Faulty Expansion Valve
- Clogged condenser or evaporator
Thanks i will get these checked, i know from experience hp pipe should be warm, think it was too hot almost to touch, which led me to believe one of the things or a combination were at fault, a blockage, poor circulation etc.
You are more than Welcome
Thanks!
I do know the lp pipe should be cold and gather condensation, and it definitely wasn't, lukewarm to touch.
Hey Sir! , from what you have mentioned i can tell that you have a problem in the AC System , not sure where it comes from but i tell you from what i know , because i had an experience with this matter before , so the thing is as follows , the HP Line should be hot , i mean like real hot that is a normal thing , but the low pressure pipe should be significantly COLD to touch , when everything works as it should be make sure of the following as a checklist
- make sure the condenser fins are not clogged with Dust , particles and insects , make sure to clean it
- Make sure that the condenser fan kicks in at the right speed when you turn the AC system usually at the high speed but it could run in low speed
depending on the weather and traffic ....etc
- the amount of R-134 (Refrigerant Gas) is the right amount as mentioned from the car manufacturer which i think is (950 gram)
- there is no water moisture in the system - this can be solved by taking it to AC specialist to suck all the moisture out and vacuuming the system and refilling it with the right amount of R-134 (Refrigerant Gas)
- the compressor is not working efficiently (could be a bad compressor) - it is recommended to change the Receiver Dryer when you change the compressor
- Faulty Expansion Valve
- Clogged condenser or evaporator
Thanks i will get these checked, i know from experience hp pipe should be warm, think it was too hot almost to touch, which led me to believe one of the things or a combination were at fault, a blockage, poor circulation etc.
You are more than Welcome
Thanks!
water in the a/c lines can corrode up. adds more pressure to the pump. pump has more resistance then the engine has to work harder. can lead to the pump failing.could be a problem with the a/c pump. could be water in the a/c lines. have you had the A/C checked ?
i had the AC refilled with refrigerant just before 2 months , the system seems to be working fine with no issues, how could that affect the car overheating , if there is any water or something similar in system the cooling of the AC system would be poor or non existent but that is not the case , the system works perfectly fine 😊
I can see the sense in what you said , and i partially agree with it , but the thing that i cant wrap my mind around it , is the AC system having any moisture in it will make it work so poorly or not even work at all , but as i mentioned the AC system works perfectly fine, what i can tell with what you have mentioned is that when i run the AC system the pressure and load on the engine increase dramatically that a failed water pump cant make it up for to cool it down as needed , but thanks for the eye opener that you mentioned here , let me know if you have more explanation or a different thought in this matter
Thanks alot!
When you use the aircon in a car the engine does run hotter as there is more to cool. Hence the secondary fan.
It sounds like your cooling system is marginal and when you combine the aircon with a hill it is too much and the cooling system fails.
Just because you've changed the radiator doesn't mean your cooling system is good.
So start with the basics and go from there
water in the a/c lines can corrode up. adds more pressure to the pump. pump has more resistance then the engine has to work harder. can lead to the pump failing.could be a problem with the a/c pump. could be water in the a/c lines. have you had the A/C checked ?
i had the AC refilled with refrigerant just before 2 months , the system seems to be working fine with no issues, how could that affect the car overheating , if there is any water or something similar in system the cooling of the AC system would be poor or non existent but that is not the case , the system works perfectly fine 😊
Are the radiator cooling fans all working (2 on a 2.2 I believe). One should be one whenever the A/C is on, the other come on when the temp is just over midpoint on the gauge (around 92C on a 2.2)
Yes , all the fans are working perfectly and when they need to , the ac fan works on the highest speed when i run it , and the radiator fan works perfectly fine depending on the temperature
Does the car actually show any signs of overheating?
If not my old 2l (X20XEV) did something very similar. After changing the thermostat, radiator etc it turned out to be a poor earth from the engine to chassis.
Good luck.
