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1

Omega General Help / Re: 3.2 strange engine number

« on: 02 April 2012, 20:07:59 »

Thanks for that. I will contact the Vauxhall dealer who's stamp is in the sevice book for the past six years and see if they can shed any light.

Thanks, Peter.

2

Omega General Help / 3.2 strange engine number

« on: 02 April 2012, 18:41:40 »

Just bought another Omega, a 3.2 2002 facelift estate . At some time in the last few years it's had a replacement engine, I think from Vauxhal and fitted by a Vauxhall main dealer.

The engine number is stamped on a metal plate which is pinned over the original number location. The plate has GM on it as well as the number, which is Y32SE  082358 . The digits are quite clear, there are no more. This seems like an very short number, as well as a very low one. Even with a couple of extra digits it's still low for a 2002 engine.

Can anyone shed any light on this strange number? I shall probably get a new cambelt kit in the future, and don't know which to go for.
 
Peter.

3

Omega General Help / Re: Wrong crank sensor fitted.

« on: 23 March 2012, 00:35:42 »

Thanks for the info. The original sensor 90492061 is a seimens one, and looks identical to the one in the link photo.

The new one, 90540743 also looks the same, ie. doesn't have the metal 'bit' in the centre. I shall keep a keen ear out for any problems with the new one.

Peter

4

Omega General Help / Wrong crank sensor fitted.

« on: 22 March 2012, 18:30:52 »

I've just replaced the cranks sensor on my 3.0 V6 1998 elite estate. The symptoms were the usual reported - ie. engine stops unexpectedly and won't restart. Leave for five minutes, restarts and runs OK.

The replacement supplied by local dealer is 90540743, which is the correct one according to the wise men of the OOF.

However the one I removed was part number 90492061, which I understand is for the 2.5 V6. The car has run OK without missing a beat for two and a half years to my knowledge. Will the wrong part have been significant, or are they near enough? Are they actually different?

Has anyone any experience of using the wrong crank sensor like this?

Peter

5

Omega General Help / Re: Front tow ball

« on: 09 October 2011, 17:33:32 »

Yes, I had a front towball on my range rover (classic). It was in the centre, unlike some land-rover ones which are off-centre.

I used to tow a caravan and a cabin cruiser (not at the same time). When pushing caravan or boat a long way or down a track it makes the job very easy - you just use the front of your vehicle to push the van, and the rear of your car just follows on. (BTW I am quite competent at reversing with a large trailer, but in a confined space, much better)

Don't know if you could fix one to the front of an omega though. However, the alignment and strength are not so important for work on private ground or camp sites.

Hope this helps, Peter.

6

Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: 1999 elite min face lift phone

« on: 20 January 2011, 09:56:24 »

I have had something like this occasionally, but only when in a very low or no-signal area. Maybe your aerial is faulty / damaged. What is the signal strength indication when the fault occurs?

Once I had to gently clean the contacts on the SIM card, but that was a year or more ago. Otherwise the phone is very reliable.

HTH.

7

Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: Another Battery drain problem

« on: 17 January 2011, 16:32:20 »

I have an Elite 3.0 mini-facelift, my quiescent current drain is about 35mA, pulsing up a few mA when the alarm LED flashes every couple of seconds.

8

Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: Strange current drain - sometimes.

« on: 16 December 2010, 10:33:05 »

Dave, thanks for your comments.

In order to eliminate possible problems with the aerial, I have now disconnected it, and tried reinstalling the radio. The result is much the same, perhaps a few milliamps less. The current drain when off is similar around 500mA above normal.

The radio normally runs with coding deactivated, and so the radio comes straight on when power is reapplied. The unit is sitting quite happily on my bench playing Radio 2. It will also happily receive an incoming phone call with voice through the speakers. (No Mic, so no reply!!)

In the car, the unit behaves impeccably, with every function working perfectly.

I have come to the conclusion that some switching device, MOSFET or other, is sort of latching on when powered, and refusing to switch off properly. It's probably connected with the poor/non working of the Aux o/p line(s). Without a schematic I don't see how I can pursue this any further. I will try for a replacement CCRT700.

Thanks, Peter.

9

Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: Strange current drain - sometimes.

« on: 15 December 2010, 17:00:46 »

Kevin - I put a 470R resistor across the aux o/p voltages now 0.2V when off, 9.4V when on.

I think what you said about not powering down properly is correct. Difficult to know where to go from here.

Are all CCRT700s the same (Apart from Bose/non Bose)? If I get another one from here or ebay, will it just drop in? Does it have to be from an Omega?

Thanks, Peter.

10

Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: Strange current drain - sometimes.

« on: 15 December 2010, 15:49:12 »

Thanks for your input Dave and Kevin. I have investigated the roof aerial and connections look good.

I have now got the radio indoors powered by a Bench PSU. I can report the following:

1)    Power consumption when supplied with 12V, but switched off  -  negligible. Aux and Antenna o/p at 4.5V with no load.

2)    Radio switched on, Current draw about 500mA. Aux and Antenna o/p at 10.8v.

3)    Switch radio off - Current drops to 400mA, then after 30sec drops to 150mA, never less. Aux o/p drops to 4.5V.

It seems as if once the radio has been switched on, the consumption never drops back to negligible. Sounds like it's kippered. What do you think.

On previous radios I have had, the Antenna o/p is just a switched 12V supply. Is this radio different, or is it just faulty?

Thanks, Peter.

11

Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: Strange current drain - sometimes. FAULT FOUND.

« on: 15 December 2010, 11:43:10 »

Thanks for your suggestion, Kevin. The current does fall back after several minutes, but only to the high current which I mentioned.

However, I have spent most of this morning pulling fuses etc. with no effect. But I have since found out what is causing my problem.!!.

The aux power output from the radio (CCRT700) which energises the Power amp, the CD player and the aerial amplifier is staying live when all is switched off.

Together, the auxilliary items take several hundred milliamps. I have removed the radio, and all is well with my consumption.

I shall now have to look to see if the aux power O/P is from a relay or a solid state device. If it's a relay, it may be sticky.

I don't use the radio too much, but I enjoy having the CD, Telephone and Trafficmaster. If I get another CCRT700, will it need to be 'paired' with my car?

Thanks, Peter.

12

Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Strange current drain - sometimes.

« on: 14 December 2010, 17:10:35 »

I hope one of you electrical wizards can shed light on my problem.

I have a current drain problem on my 1999 mini-facelift 3L elite estate. This will flatten my battery a lot more quickly than expected. If I measure the current drawn from the battery, with all doors closed, and nothing switched on, then I get a current of around 600-700 mA.

If I disconnect the battery and reconnect, then after a short time the current will be about 40mA, which is what I would expect. If I then switch on the ignition, and then off again, and wait for all the ancillary things to switch off, the current is back up to 500ma+.

All lamps, Radio, Sat Nav and the Muti-display are off. The power sounder for the alarm was removed some time ago, and the connectors tidied away, so it can't be that.

If I remove F6, the supply to the Bose Amp, then the current reduces, but is still 200-300mA. Something must be staying alive when it shouldn't be. I have tapped all relays which I can see, just in case one is sticking.

Anybody have any suggestions as to where to look next?

Peter.

13

Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: Parking Light Disconection ?

« on: 20 April 2009, 17:08:13 »

I traced out the two wires in the boot which go to the sidelights. ( they have separate wires).

I then connected a cheap mechanical buzzer between them. Any normal time, they are both at 0V or both at 12V only when one is on and one is off does the buzzer sound. (ie. when you forget the flasher stalk!)

If you can't find a mechanical buzzer, then a cheap electronic one will do, but you will have to feed it through a bridge rectifier, to keep the polarity correct. (both available from Maplin)

Peter.

14

Omega General Help / Re: can I quickly check camber?

« on: 06 August 2009, 20:33:22 »

Hi again,

Measured on level road, with normal loads and fuel etc.

Adjust with no load on the suspension, and then lower and measure. It may take a few tries before you get it right.

Probably best to get it checked professionally afterwards.

Peter.

15

Omega General Help / Re: can I quickly check camber?

« on: 06 August 2009, 20:26:37 »

Hi Bumbazor,

My 16" wheel is about 440mm from edge to edge.

For an angle of 1degree10 (1.16 degree) the top edge of the wheel will be about 9mm in from the bottom. [Sin 1.16 degrees x 440]

Cut a piece of wood to just fit across the edges of the wheel. Hold a sprit level (or plumb) up the wood, and move the wood outwards at the top until the bubble is central. Measure the gap between the top of the wood and the wheel rim. It should be around 9mm.

It may help to use some sort of makeshift spacer rather than trying to hold the wood vertical.

The joint between the suspension leg and the lower hub is adjustable, and if you loosen it, you can easily change the camber before you know it.

Hope this helps, Peter.