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Messages - JohnM

Pages: [1] 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 ... 23
1
Omega General Help / Re: Part number help wanted: Fr coil spring
« on: 12 January 2026, 14:40:10 »
 
And as Doctor Gollum says, the Thrust Angle (might be called something else on non-Hunter machines) absolutely must be 0'00, nothing else.
:y

2
Omega General Help / Re: Part number help wanted: Fr coil spring
« on: 12 January 2026, 14:26:02 »
Front springs are not body style a specific. There are a few variations according to the engine and trim.

You want a standard V6 front spring. More specifically you need 2 and unless they were recently changed, you would be well advised to do the front struts and wishbones. Haters will always hate, but this is what I fitted to my own Omegas and several for other people. It's not cheap, but it's a they only way to do it properly. The only thing not on the list is the Power flex front wishbone bushes. I would but you might choose not to.

Front shocks https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/303900706727
Bump stop https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/389407894145
Top mounts https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/267520937164
Front springs  https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/126057776492
Wishbones https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/388331065649
Poly bushes https://powerflexstore.co.uk/vauxhall/omega-b-1994-2003/powerflex-front-wishbone-front-bush-omega-b-1994-2003-pff80-902/
Rear end:
Rear springs https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/286902588255
Rear shocks https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/389362518864
Rear track rods x2 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/365676388824

It's a days work on the drive, but a garage should be able to smash it out in a morning.

Once done it will need the alignment doing properly or you'll destroy tyres and hate the car for the way it drives.

Geometry settings are readily available on here but basically front toe (in) -0°03", front camber -1°10", and thrust angle 0° and not a second off.

When you add it all up, it's not a cheap exercise, but by the time you've taken the strut off to replace the spring and refitted everything and done the alignment, you may as well have done the lot. Notwithstanding the fact that only replacing one spring is the definition of retarded and dangerous, not to mention criminal.

All of that and it will drive like a brand new car.
Added the polybushes ;)

Thanks for all that - ordered the top five to do the fronts, wishbone complete as I'm unsure of the true condition of mine.
Hopefully not need anything else at all.

I know WIM? sorted the alignments before, any thoughts who is worth using nearer me (Newark/Lincoln) ?

3
Omega General Help / Re: Part number help wanted: Fr coil spring
« on: 10 January 2026, 12:43:56 »
Thanks so far.
It is true most of the front is worn - especially the wishbone bushes.
Time for me think if to do (have done) the lot (front).

4
Omega General Help / Part number help wanted: Fr coil spring
« on: 09 January 2026, 15:34:43 »
A small break spotted by an over enthusiastic mot checker has left me very confused and in a corner.

Can anyone clarify the parts number/s so I can chase a probably non-vx now as non available replacement front coil spring.
I know (think) the fronts should be the same across all 6-pots.

1998 2.5L (Estate)

90540871 from VauxCare (he hasn't got any) but this appear wrong as for a 2.0L

90538931 )
90541424 )
90575426 ) web searches suggest all these for saloon & estate 1994-2003 - are they the same part ?

90510279 from NAPA but non available

I'm thinking if I can get the original part no. I can ask the non OEMs for one.

Failing that, does anyone have one in their garage going ?

5
Ah, I didn't know 'collecting them' was a thing.

Mine will get put out for the big rubbish heap in the earth later in the week then.

6
Fed up of tripping over it.  Is my dead 120A alternator of any interest to anyone ?

I couldn't split the diode pack - but thinking these are actually okay.
It does *need* a rear bearing, the plastic bearing surround is intact (which is more than can be said for the bearing cage). The rings have been scored but have cleaned up nicely, brushes some life in them and all makes good contact - checked under rotation too.

I did spin it will a small battery drill but suspect far too slow, the output didn't put out my makeshift 'charge' lamp, I did gets some voltage out of it but not enough although this likely equated to an in-car speed of only 250-500rpm.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/KH8Ajptshk9Su83z7
https://photos.app.goo.gl/W6mARLcRCnnpvmb37

Currently reassembled less this part:-
https://photos.app.goo.gl/NdYemE8AA4LdeJHF6

7
Omega General Help / Re: Replacement alternator (I think)
« on: 03 March 2020, 15:56:20 »
Thanks for confirming that, I'll search out a 120A replacement - nothing found just yet.

40 minutes - I bet you'd have that down to less than that.  Not having done one I'll take that as an "nice to aim for figure" but that's okay as long as I don't run into trouble.

8
This is beyond 'just regulator' I fear.

Seen some on the bay, but I'll leave this here is case someone has a repaired one (or a spare one) within reach of me.

9
Omega General Help / Re: Replacement alternator (I think)
« on: 02 March 2020, 22:28:49 »
Taa.

Had a looksie, but can't see the label.

Also, looks tight coming out the top too !

Can anyone suggest if it is a 100A or 120A ?

10
As above.
For my 2.5L 98 CD(X).
Known fully working, no issues (or competently repaired etc.), ready to install.
Could do with being fairly local as I suspect P&P is excessive (and I'd have to drive some French piece of tat to get there).

11
Omega General Help / Replacement alternator (I think)
« on: 29 February 2020, 23:20:09 »
Can anyone tell from their armchair what alternator (number) I need to look out for please.  2.5L (mini/pre facelift), originally (I believe) an auto but wears a manual box.
Or where to check on it when dry and light.

Following what I can only describe as a 'dash reset' (dials) had the IGN lamp showing and (much) later TC and SRS temporarily joined the party (the charge lamp even went out once or twice).  Some rather loud noises (not good) at one point and I expect I've confirmed the source of my noise - but now failed electrically too (internal damage?). Managed a place of safety (pub with food for lunch) and exercised my recovery premium.  My battery must have been feeling very good to have got so far (a tense 15-20').  Back home and the battery voltage (it still started) dropped from 12.3v (off) to 11.something running and never increased a drop (running); so definitely no charging at all.

Is an alternator change easy on the (cold) driveway (garage in use) or, as I think for me, am I better getting hold of its replacement and tasking to somewhere with a lift ?  Any gotchas waiting for me ?

12
Omega General Help / Re: Windscreen replacement - what is involved?
« on: 17 December 2019, 21:56:03 »
It does, thanks.

I asked about the above availabilty (and cost  :o ), except those with rain the sensor as I'm not fitting that extra, and only the two screens are available first port of call and in Germany at that.

I think I'll be farming it out directly to the insurance cover now and they'll fit what the have.  Even a local(ish) main vx dealer said they use a third party fitter for their replacements (didn't know/say they used vx glass) and gave me their number.

13
Omega General Help / Re: Windscreen replacement - what is involved?
« on: 15 December 2019, 13:00:07 »
Thanks. 
Could be after Christmas now, we'll see.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/myiAYa6AQR3cJc5F9

I'll ask them for the same (if available) then there'll be no insurance arguing.
Which screen is 43R-00171, heat absorbing or reflecting ?
Mine has a very slight tinge to it (glasss marked 75% min) but it is really subtle and has a blue sun strip across the top which seems to work really well.

14
Omega General Help / Windscreen replacement - what is involved?
« on: 12 December 2019, 14:19:04 »
Given that nothing here goes quite according to plan; what is the norm for a windscreen change ?

Is it all done from the 'outside', leaving scuttle in place etc. (not that mine is back on yet).
Am I right in thinking it is a bonded screen and the big seal is simply to keep the water out of the surrounding metalwork.

Do the companies change seals or not, wreck seals, charge for them if found less than perfect ?
In reality, are any of the bigger (insurance) fitters better than any others (if I could get a choice) ?

Am I in for a world of pain or will I be peasantly surprised (if lighter in the wallet under for the glass excess).

15
Omega General Help / Re: Removing the aux belt tensioner
« on: 10 December 2019, 14:17:44 »
Well it wasn't notchy, but was very 'free', not with significant play.

I've opened the bearing seals.  No water, rust or anything really.  Almost void of all lube.  Filled with grease from both sides. Much firmer when rotated in the hand.

Restored and started her up. No loud whir but still some noise - the car is stone cold and not run very long (in the garage backwards).  Happier now it isn't about to seize and throw its belt into the works.

If was definately that I'd order in a pully but I'd like to know, and maybe with a little running time it'll go silent (for a while).

Project moves onwards ...

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