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Messages - kevin61

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1
Omega General Help / Re: Fault code P1625 anybody?
« on: 24 December 2008, 11:11:22 »
Thanks guys, I'll keep looking.

Merry Xmas to all :)

2
Omega General Help / Fault code P1625 anybody?
« on: 23 December 2008, 18:04:57 »
My '02 2.6 V6 went in to my local garage because of an occasional reluctance to change up a gear.  Fluid was found to be okay but then they found the fault code P1625 "Power control final stage low input"  on their Snap-on reader.  

Can anyone explain what it means?

Thanks :)

3
Omega General Help / Re: 433.92 mhz key fob not working
« on: 22 November 2008, 22:54:13 »
Thanks very much to all for your help.

4
Omega General Help / Re: 433.92 mhz key fob not working
« on: 22 November 2008, 22:43:45 »
Quote
Never had a G-AM to repair!

All use similar switches - the Delphi ones are 1/2mm shorter than Megamos.

New switches do work well they gunge inside and insulate themselves.

I have repaired a lot now.

Sounds good - can I PM you to get this one repaired?

5
Omega General Help / Re: 433.92 mhz key fob not working
« on: 22 November 2008, 22:31:12 »
Quote
Been there too. I have actually collected 3 different typres of 3 button remotes.

Unfortunately the 2 spares I have are the other 2 (not a T-AM) otherwise you'd have been welcome to them. It's well worth opening them up to check the type because I have come across fobs which have been re-cased meaning the outer markings can't be relied on.

I would see if Martin can resurrect your old one. Failing that, get a replacement from e-bay after confirming it's the right type, and get one of the Tech 2 custodians to pair it with your car.

Kevin

Cheers.  I thought there was only 2 types going by the entry at http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1216833666  

but now we know!!

6
Omega General Help / Re: 433.92 mhz key fob not working
« on: 22 November 2008, 22:25:42 »
Quote
Quote
Yes, they do look different inside.  I can't see any writing on the circuit board of the one I am trying to programme.  

The original stopped working and the LED stayed on solid for a short while before going out.  Changed the battery - still no LED.


Won't work then

Original - have the switches gone really gungy and stiff - not actually depressing, this is on the circuit NOT the case.

If so it needs new switches - PM me I repair them

The lock/unlock switches are definitely softer than the boot one which is crisper.  From the (excellent) pics the original is definitely a Megamos T-AM.  

Repairable?

7
Omega General Help / Re: 433.92 mhz key fob not working
« on: 22 November 2008, 21:58:34 »
Yes, they do look different inside.  I can't see any writing on the circuit board of the one I am trying to programme.  

The original stopped working and the LED stayed on solid for a short while before going out.  Changed the battery - still no LED.

8
Omega General Help / 433.92 mhz key fob not working
« on: 22 November 2008, 21:12:51 »
Got one of these from egay but a local auto technician was unable to make it work.  His tester received a signal but when he came to programme it on the car that particular gizmo (Tech 2 type thing?) couldn't see the signal.

LED works fine and on it it says:

Delphi Type G-AM 433.92 mhz and Part number 24415490.

My original has no legible markings on the outside but inside it also says 433.92mhz but Magamos T-AM.  The wife's is also a Delphi.

If the frequencies are the same why wouldn't it work? Is the G-AM important?  Have I bought yet another wrong-un?

(Mine is a 2.6 CDX with alarm, both fobs are 3 button.)

Any suggestions welcome.

P.S.  Anyone looking for a key man in York, Lloyd at Caboodle in Acomb has been very helpful and patient with me.

9
Omega General Help / Re: remote fob
« on: 12 November 2008, 20:19:14 »
Quote
Buy a (correct!!) fob from egay, then come see me, M DTM or Kevin Wood ;)

Think I've got myself the wrong one (Delphi 433.92Mhz instead of Kiekert 433Mhz).  I take it they are not interchangeable.  Silly question, I know, but has to be asked now I've bought the damned thing.

Is an easy way to spot the difference that one has an LED and the other doesn't?

 :(

10
Cheers

 [smiley=dankk2.gif]

11
Brilliant.  

Thanks Mike.

12
If it has electric fore and aft adjustment, you will need to remove the bolts before disconnecting unless you like lots of winding with the crank.

Thanks for the tip but I don't quite understand this sentence, not having removed anything yet.  Can you elaborate? Remove which bolts?

Cheers

(Goes looking for £2.50 in the rear seat cushions.)

13
My seat belt buckle jammed inside due to a rogue bit of plastic getting caught in the mechanism.  To fix it I ripped the plastic covering apart, removed said bit and wrapped the thing in gaffer tape.

It works fine again but I was wondering if it is difficult to replace (with a second hand one) bearing in mind explosive content etc.

Thanks.

P.S. Just spent two hours reading FAQs etc.  Excellent informative stuff - now can I have a free sticker?

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