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Messages - irpearce

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1
Omega General Help / Re: 2.5 TD no fuel at injectors
« on: 05 December 2012, 17:18:05 »
Running again. The problem was all about the position of the top part of the body (which I had removed to reseal the leaking gasket) on the four slotted location holes. This in turn affects the position of the control spool. I had clamped it up too far towards the front of the engine which meant the the contol spool was not far enough over the pressure relief hole so no pressure to injectors. Slide it backward a bit and you get fuel to the injectors for bleeding but not enough pressure to activate them properly. Slide it right to the back and the hole is completely covered and the car starts immediately and shoots to max revs. So the right position is somewhere inbetween. It is a VERY FINE adjustment - it took me eight attempts and then suddenly a perfect tickover and all is well.
Lessons to learn and to help anybody else who has to reseal a leaking pump
Understand how the thing works (see link in previous post)
Carefully mark the position of the upper body on the slots before removal
Even then the adjustment is critical
Never give up

It's a love /hate thing  but it's one hell of an engine! Onwards to 250K
Thanks again for all the help

2
Omega General Help / Re: 2.5 TD no fuel at injectors
« on: 03 December 2012, 09:28:53 »
Thanks for all help. Think Omegatoy is on the right track.
I found this brilliant pdf which explains exactly how this works

http://www.dieselbookmarks.com/bombers/VEPump.pdf

Our pump is on p45.

I think I have it assembled right but it seems that the control spool is not covering the injection relief port meaning no pressure to outlet pipes. Seems the poteniometer isn't working/getting a signal. It was working before - perhaps I disturbed a wire. Will investigate tomorrow

3
Omega General Help / Re: 2.5 TD no fuel at injectors
« on: 01 December 2012, 22:09:26 »
I have seen those pics. I got them via this thread
Leaking injector pump 2.5tdi 6cyl diesel
16. Jun 2011 at 23:23
The seals are the the ones above and below the section in pic 4.
Yes, have tested the pump solenoid. It works OK.
It should pump fuel - but it doesn't.
I'm missing something somewhere.
Bit concerned about the correct location of the quantity control servo arm in the control spool on re-assembly. Another post I found mentioned that this is diffficult but it seemed straightforward. I'm on Devon/Cornwall border. Problem is - every time I spend a fiver it doubles the value of my faithful old 239k miler!

4
Omega General Help / Re: 2.5 TD no fuel at injectors
« on: 01 December 2012, 17:04:41 »
Did you bleed as I suggested above?

Yes but didn't work.

Tried opening a couple of the high pressure pipe unions at the back of the injection pump - no fuel when cranking
Checked the shut off solenoid which seems to work fine.
Tried without the shut off solenoid pin (ie always open) - no fuel when cranking
So whatever I do there's no fuel coming out of the injector pump (flow in from the tank pump is fine)
I even checked that the chain drive from the camshaft is OK

It seems that the pump is either not pressurizing the fuel or not distributing it to the high pressure pipes. What could cause this?

It worked fine (but leaked) before I opened it up to seal the leak. There doesn't seem much to get wrong (!!!!!) doing this but I clearly have cocked something up. The only (???) variable is the rotary potentiometer.
The resting position can be varied by how you position the bolts on the slotted holes in the body. I've tried a couple of different positions but it changes nothing.

Any more thoughts?


5
Omega General Help / Re: 2.5 TD no fuel at injectors
« on: 01 December 2012, 14:13:31 »
Can you rig up some sort of test lamp across the injector plug to see if you are getting a 12 volt pulse ?
Or a old style test meter with a needle ?

These are mechanical injectors relying on a fuel pulse from the injection pump not the modern electrical type

Maybe remove a injector, leave it plugged in and crank it over to see if it is working.
No fuel is even getting to the injectors so the problem is with the injection pump

Could the problem be the stop solenoid - anybody know anything about this?

6
Omega General Help / Re: 2.5 TD no fuel at injectors
« on: 01 December 2012, 13:05:52 »
Still no joy. Have removed manifold again and removed all 6 glowplugs to ensure max cranking speed. The injector pump is bled and flow from fuel tank pump is fine.
But still no fuel at injectors after loads of cranking. No apparent leaks from the injector pump.
I'm missing something here. What else can I check? Help anybody!!

7
Omega General Help / 2.5 TD no fuel at injectors
« on: 30 November 2012, 10:10:08 »
1995 2.5 TD. I've just tried to seal the two gaskets in the fuel metering unit due to a leak but cannot re start the engine.
I can hear the fuel pump running when ignition on (for about 10 secs) and there is fuel at the bleed screw on the fuel unit.
I have removed the fuel pipes at the injectors but no fuel is coming through with either pump running or when cranking.
There is fuel at the very front leakoff pipe when the pump runs.
I don't know enough about how this is meant to work.
Should fuel be at the injectors with just the pump running, or do you need to be cranking?
Could I have reassembled the unit wrongly - it seemed simple enough. When tightening down I wasn't sure how to position the unit on the slotted screws - is this important?
It seems like the fuel pump isn't strong enough to lift the fuel but it always worked before. The flow at the bleed screw and leakoff pipe is only moderate
Any help/advice would be appreciated.

8
Fuses 1 & 7 OK
May be the door loom but forgot to mention that this has happened a number of times before, and self corrects after a few weeks/months.
Maybe it's something that I do that causes/fixes it. The only out of the ordinary thing that I did prior to the latest occurence was to use the key to lock the door AND close the windows (key fob thing has long since expired)
Have tried to study the wiring diagram - seems that the drivers door courtesy light switch feeds a signal to S37.7 automatic controller. Do you know the location of this controller and which relays are involved.

9
drivers door is open (courtesy light switch made)
What is going on??? 1995 2.5 td cdx estate.
When door is shut there are no lights on the window switches in the centre consul and they don't work - open the door and hey presto!!

10
Omega General Help / 2.5 TDi Turbo sticking?
« on: 17 April 2008, 09:23:39 »
1995 2.5 TDi 201,000 miles. Lacks power first thing in the morning. After about 5 miles, suddenly back to normal. Think the turbo is kicking in once engine warms up??? Used to happen now and again, but now happens most mornings. Is it the turbo? What's happening and what do I need to do? Any advice (not "scrap the car" please)

11
I'm facing exactly the same problem. I have:-
Fitted new waterpump (old one was OK anyway)
Removed thermostat completely for max flow
Removed and flushed Rad with acid cleaner - flow defiately improved but how good does it need to be?
New drive belt
Used K seal in case there is a head gasket or crack problem
It does not lose coolant which is clean.
No water in the oil
My TD has done 230k and until recently always ran at 90 degrees - now it heads over 100 as soon as I look at a hill
What next - loathe to buy a new rad which costs twice the value of the car! and it might not work
Any more tests I can do?

12
Omega General Help / Re: 2.5 Diesel expert please
« on: 19 November 2008, 20:21:16 »
Yes, engine warms up steadily over first 5 or so miles reaching 90 which is it's normal operating temperature. Rarely goes above 90 except on really long steep hills or really hot days - and then only a bit.

13
Omega General Help / 2.5 Diesel expert please
« on: 19 November 2008, 12:15:11 »
My good old 211k 1995 2.5tdi still goes like train BUT now it is cold and damp in the mornings there is a real lack of power for the first 5 miles then it cuts back in as normal. Probably related to the engine warming up. This started winter last year but disappeared all through the summer. Has just started to happen again in the last few weeks. Once the power is back it is fine for the rest of the day (after subsequent starts).
Anybody know what is going on?

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