1
Omega General Help / Re: Cant remove oil cooler pipe for filter housing
« on: 31 January 2010, 22:07:36 »Quote
Now thats a big spanner - 19 ft!!!!
Well at least that explains why I could got get it to thurn the nut!
- 21 July 2025, 17:54:49
- Welcome, Guest
News:
Search the maintenance guides for answers to 99.999% of Omega questions
Show Posts
This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.
Well at least that explains why I could got get it to thurn the nut!
2
Omega General Help / Re: Cant remove oil cooler pipe for filter housing
« on: 31 January 2010, 22:04:18 »
Thanks guys.
Carfully bent the pipes successfully out of the way and we have the oil cooler out. It looked in good condition but there was a hard white deposite around where the pipes enter and leave the cooler. A pressure test confirmed that there was a leak here so it is time for a new cooler.
Incidentially - once I had the cover plate off and cleaned things up there was a fair bit of deposit where the sealant had been. I suspect that I was getting a git of a water leak here too.
So thanks once again. Will keep folks posted as to what happens next
John
Carfully bent the pipes successfully out of the way and we have the oil cooler out. It looked in good condition but there was a hard white deposite around where the pipes enter and leave the cooler. A pressure test confirmed that there was a leak here so it is time for a new cooler.
Incidentially - once I had the cover plate off and cleaned things up there was a fair bit of deposit where the sealant had been. I suspect that I was getting a git of a water leak here too.
So thanks once again. Will keep folks posted as to what happens next
John
3
Omega General Help / Re: Cant remove oil cooler pipe for filter housing
« on: 26 January 2010, 21:04:31 »
Thanks guys. I wasn't sure about bending it out of the way but that seems the best option from here. Like the suggestion of the crow's foot with a clip but given the lack of space I don't think that will be viable.
Thanks
John
Thanks
John
4
Omega General Help / Cant remove oil cooler pipe for filter housing
« on: 26 January 2010, 16:35:11 »
My my this is iturning into a saga. Needing still more advice.
I need to remove the two oil cooler pipes at the oil filter housing to get the cooler out. One nut undone no problme the the second just won't turn. This is the one with the tighter turn. I have tried open ended spanner but there is no enough room for a 19. Even tried a cut 19mm ring but still can't get movement. Finally got some crow's foot spanners but this is just springing round. It looks like some one at some point the past has flattend the nut a bit with the result that it is no longer round - if you see what I mean.
Next step would seem to be to cut the pipe and try and get a ring spanner on it. Failing that I can see me have to get the engine take out!
Any suggestions would be great at this point. I would paricularly like to know if I will be able to get a replacement pipe and ends and whether this can be routed into place without taking the engine out.
Been without the old girl for a month now.
John
I need to remove the two oil cooler pipes at the oil filter housing to get the cooler out. One nut undone no problme the the second just won't turn. This is the one with the tighter turn. I have tried open ended spanner but there is no enough room for a 19. Even tried a cut 19mm ring but still can't get movement. Finally got some crow's foot spanners but this is just springing round. It looks like some one at some point the past has flattend the nut a bit with the result that it is no longer round - if you see what I mean.
Next step would seem to be to cut the pipe and try and get a ring spanner on it. Failing that I can see me have to get the engine take out!
Any suggestions would be great at this point. I would paricularly like to know if I will be able to get a replacement pipe and ends and whether this can be routed into place without taking the engine out.
Been without the old girl for a month now.
John
5
Omega General Help / Re: Oil Cooler testing and replacement cost
« on: 22 January 2010, 06:42:14 »
Thanks guys will give the local dealer a call today and see what comes out. As to price - it was coming out at £234+ on-line 
John
John
6
Omega General Help / Oil Cooler testing and replacement cost
« on: 21 January 2010, 19:34:41 »
Hi folks
Omege 98 2.5v6
Having done a post last week on compression depression and received helpful advise, done the compression test, which went fine I am now moving onto the oil cooler as the prime suspect - slight oil in the water, overheating and hard top hose but goo water circulate and no significant loss of coolant. Will remove cooler this weekend weather permitting. So..
Any offers on how to test the oil cooler and what sort of sum I am looking at for a replacement. Finally, as it is bathed in water, I am assuming that a second hand one is a false economy.
Omege 98 2.5v6
Having done a post last week on compression depression and received helpful advise, done the compression test, which went fine I am now moving onto the oil cooler as the prime suspect - slight oil in the water, overheating and hard top hose but goo water circulate and no significant loss of coolant. Will remove cooler this weekend weather permitting. So..
Any offers on how to test the oil cooler and what sort of sum I am looking at for a replacement. Finally, as it is bathed in water, I am assuming that a second hand one is a false economy.
7
Omega General Help / Re: Overheat/gas and a little oil in coolant
« on: 15 January 2010, 06:55:28 »
Thanks guys - rather what I thought.
Any thoughts of the limit of 15psi between any two cylinders?
John
Any thoughts of the limit of 15psi between any two cylinders?
John
8
Omega General Help / Overheat/gas and a little oil in coolant
« on: 14 January 2010, 20:43:43 »
Hi folks.
Looking for a bit of advice. This all happened when it was really cold and I fear more than one problem.
Omega 2.5V6 1998~140k.
Has been using a bit of water for a while- nees about a litre a month. In December I was in down out and cheked the water and there was oil in the expansion tank, list a little on the cap and floating - smelled like warm fresh engine oil. Topped up the water and drove home~350miles ran a bit hot 97-100+ ut behaved fine.
Just before Christmas drove up to Moray and back in the very cold -15C and no problems. Since then ...
If I start an run the car temp rises quickly to top, warning light on! Seems to cool quickly when turned off but quickly rises again if driven.
Running the car without driving see temperature rise to 97-100 but no overheat. Running the case with the top off the header tank and it goes through a slow cycle of ejecting about 1.5litres then dropping down again - usually with some air. Radiator did eventually get hot and taking a pipe off the header tank was able to confirm thermostat opening and water pumping.
From what I have read on here I guess that either there is a head gasket away or a blocked oil cooler. I am planning to do a compression test at the weekend but have a couple of questions.
The Haynes manual says that there should be no more than 15psi difference between any two clyinders, that's about 5%. Is it really that critical?
How do I test for a blockage in the oil cooler?
Any other advice or comments would be greatfully received.
Thanks in advance!
John
Looking for a bit of advice. This all happened when it was really cold and I fear more than one problem.
Omega 2.5V6 1998~140k.
Has been using a bit of water for a while- nees about a litre a month. In December I was in down out and cheked the water and there was oil in the expansion tank, list a little on the cap and floating - smelled like warm fresh engine oil. Topped up the water and drove home~350miles ran a bit hot 97-100+ ut behaved fine.
Just before Christmas drove up to Moray and back in the very cold -15C and no problems. Since then ...
If I start an run the car temp rises quickly to top, warning light on! Seems to cool quickly when turned off but quickly rises again if driven.
Running the car without driving see temperature rise to 97-100 but no overheat. Running the case with the top off the header tank and it goes through a slow cycle of ejecting about 1.5litres then dropping down again - usually with some air. Radiator did eventually get hot and taking a pipe off the header tank was able to confirm thermostat opening and water pumping.
From what I have read on here I guess that either there is a head gasket away or a blocked oil cooler. I am planning to do a compression test at the weekend but have a couple of questions.
The Haynes manual says that there should be no more than 15psi difference between any two clyinders, that's about 5%. Is it really that critical?
How do I test for a blockage in the oil cooler?
Any other advice or comments would be greatfully received.
Thanks in advance!
John
9
Omega General Help / Re: still no joy on alarm problem
« on: 05 January 2010, 09:16:16 »
Hi ya.
This sounds like a problem I had. Even had the alram going off when I as driving once or twice. I did get a solution so you might like to try this.
The alarm in mine has a siren and a horn buried under the scuttle panel on the offside. If you take it out you will see a large block shaped thing comes with it. This contains, among other things. a couple of AA rechargable batteries. Over time these degrade and become unreliable with the result that the charge when the car is running but the charge drains out quite quickly thereafter. Once the charge drops below a trigger level the alarm system senses it and triggers the alarm. A temporary solution is to remove the whole unit. Certainly cured the problem with mine
Hope you get a solution.
This sounds like a problem I had. Even had the alram going off when I as driving once or twice. I did get a solution so you might like to try this.
The alarm in mine has a siren and a horn buried under the scuttle panel on the offside. If you take it out you will see a large block shaped thing comes with it. This contains, among other things. a couple of AA rechargable batteries. Over time these degrade and become unreliable with the result that the charge when the car is running but the charge drains out quite quickly thereafter. Once the charge drops below a trigger level the alarm system senses it and triggers the alarm. A temporary solution is to remove the whole unit. Certainly cured the problem with mine
Hope you get a solution.
10
Omega General Help / Re: Sump plug
« on: 25 July 2008, 22:17:43 »
Hey guys. This all looks too heavy.
I had the same problem last time I did an
oil change - first time on this car. Plug thread stripped so wandered to my frendly local after market supplier and picked up a replacement plug with o ring for about £3.
Isn't that worth a try?
I had the same problem last time I did an
oil change - first time on this car. Plug thread stripped so wandered to my frendly local after market supplier and picked up a replacement plug with o ring for about £3.
Isn't that worth a try?
11
Omega General Help / Re: rear wheel bearings
« on: 26 July 2008, 22:58:18 »
Ah yes - the difference between possible and advisable!
12
Omega General Help / Re: rear wheel bearings
« on: 25 July 2008, 22:12:00 »
Well I have done the home mechanic bit and changed a rear wheel baring in the drive but it is not easy.
I used a cheap electric impact wrench to undo the inner nut and a stanard puller to remove the outer bell housing. Pressed the out baring out using a socket that just fitted over the baring. I then rigged up a makshift puller with some threaded rod and 1/4" bar. Threaded the rods throught the backplate mounting holes and wound it it out. Reversed the process to press the new baring in.
This was a long and difficult job but most of it was working out how to do it. It takes a fair bit of pressure - the threaded rod only just held up and the 1/4" bar bent like butter but eventually held enough to do the job.
Good luck.
I used a cheap electric impact wrench to undo the inner nut and a stanard puller to remove the outer bell housing. Pressed the out baring out using a socket that just fitted over the baring. I then rigged up a makshift puller with some threaded rod and 1/4" bar. Threaded the rods throught the backplate mounting holes and wound it it out. Reversed the process to press the new baring in.
This was a long and difficult job but most of it was working out how to do it. It takes a fair bit of pressure - the threaded rod only just held up and the 1/4" bar bent like butter but eventually held enough to do the job.
Good luck.
13
Omega General Help / Re: lost both keys,car is deadlocked, what do i do now
« on: 31 May 2008, 23:14:25 »
Hi
The handle on the inside of the door has a soft plastic section in he front edge of hte handle. This should push off towards the frount of car - there is another screw behind this. There is also a blanking plug conceiling another screw toward the top front corner of the door but it sould like you have got this one.
If the door pannel has spring clips along the top edge. Should be able to release these by rocking the pannel from side to side while pushing up.
Hope that helps
The handle on the inside of the door has a soft plastic section in he front edge of hte handle. This should push off towards the frount of car - there is another screw behind this. There is also a blanking plug conceiling another screw toward the top front corner of the door but it sould like you have got this one.
If the door pannel has spring clips along the top edge. Should be able to release these by rocking the pannel from side to side while pushing up.
Hope that helps
14
Omega General Help / Re: lost both keys,car is deadlocked, what do i do now
« on: 30 May 2008, 22:32:56 »
Don't break a window. It's deadlocked so you won't be able to open it from the inside either.
15
Omega General Help / Re: lost both keys,car is deadlocked, what do i do now
« on: 30 May 2008, 22:29:54 »
Take you registration doc to a vaushall dealer and get another key. You should be able to get a bare key - without remote or imobiliser chip - its cheaper. You use this to unlock the car. Nice to know that you have a secure car isn't it.