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Messages - majic55

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Hi again, thanks for the replies,  the key wouldn't work in either locks even after trying harder. Glad I got some sort of agreement with the starter circuit route,  I jacked the car up on drivers side but was parked half on half off the kerb with legs into the road and my back up against the gutter and a windy day. It is still difficult getting to the starter, any way after a couple of attempts I decided I didn't feel safe so would attack it another day with more equipment. Later on I decided to have a dabble with a coat hanger at the front passenger door. What I found was to use two wires, one to gain access through the door and the other to follow and bend accordingly, a bit like a surgeon using keyhole surgery. It took approx. 40 mins and if I ever need to do it again I'm sure it would take a lot less and I didn't damage any of the rubber door seals.  Thieves won't go to these lengths they'll continue to smash and grab, plus the immobilliser should stop the car being driven away. The reason I explain this in detail is to show that you don't need to smash that window as your last resort.                                                

Thanks once again for the replies,  cheers!

2
Hi Guys,   Yeah yeah I should have known better, but my 2.5 has been parked on the street for six days and battery gone completely flat. No power to operate central locking, key won't manually unlock and don't want to break a window. Can't get the bonnet up from outside and thought about making a circuit with a good battery and jump leads to the positive terminal to the solenoid that piggy backs the starter motor and negative to the chassis in the hope of introducing some power to the system and hopefully enough to operate the central locking. Any body with any other ideas or knows how to get the bonnet open?

3
Having a similar problem myself at the moment, no fuel getting to engine but fuse 18 intact. Havn't checked out fuel pump relay(K44) or injector relay(K43) yet, thats relays 10 and 20 under the bonnet next to the battery. Just like Ballcock, I thought there would be an Emergency cut off valve somewhere along with an emergency cut off reset button but havn't come up with any evidence of this. My paper clip test came up with fault code 57, that's idle air control voltage low and 31 no RPM signal. But as the car was doing 30 mph on a main road, at the time of instant engine dying then I don't think these are relavent. My engine turns over quite normal with a strong battery but not a cough!

4
Newbie Welcome Area / Second post
« on: 12 August 2008, 14:18:15 »
Hi again everyone,
Well thanks for the warm welcome, much appreciated, and the free advice already. WHEN I have to redo my cam gaskets again I am definetly going to invest in a dentists mirror so as I'm able to see that the half moons are seated properly! I hate working blind   :y

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Newbie Welcome Area / Another Newbie
« on: 11 August 2008, 15:48:37 »
Hi everyone,
Yes another newbie, but I'm amazed at how quickly your membership is growing. Thinking about it, I shouldn't be becuase they are cracking cars. Had mine for six years now with very little trouble. A few months ago had to fix the oil leak from the cam covers. Got the gaskets off of Ebay and so was the first time tinkering in the engine bay apart from when the EGR lump fell off due to  a sheared bolt. Realized that Haynes are virtually useless so a friend suggested looking for a car club hence here I am at OOF. Hope to be able to contribute in the future but you guys seem to have covered all major and not so major points. Got 165,000 on the clock now and as a recent MOT has hilighted its going to need work from now on, so as some one pointed out in the forum its a good time to buy as most other people consider that they are worth approx. three and a half pence, FOOLS!!
By the way I run a 2.5 petrol Elite estate and am thinking about the 3.2  
Cheers  Majic (Dave)

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