Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.

1

Omega General Help / Re: Timing Belt Issue

« on: 26 July 2014, 01:10:38 »

Another question for everyone..  I was inspecting the car gears and had  the engine at TDC...  cam gear 1 spun counter clockwise approx 30 degrees as it was spring loaded.   I had to grab a rachet and spin it back clockwise to line it up.   I know I should have had the cam locks in but I wasn't thinking 

Is it possible the valves hit the piston in this event?

2

Omega General Help / Timing Belt Issue

« on: 25 July 2014, 02:36:57 »

Replaced my timing belt and tensioners recently on my 2001 Omega MV6 (3.0) and I'm having issues with the belt noise.  It started with a rattle/rubbing noise on cold start ups.  I took the timing belt apart and noticed that the belt had scuffs on the top side, and the tension seem a bit loose, but the timing was lined up.  Thinking I did not tension the belts properly, I purchased a new belt, reinstalled it.  Now it's starting to make sound during start up again!!!  I'm thinking it may either be a bad tensioner or the pulleys?

The belt kit I used is Dayco 95285K1 which consists of a timing belt, tensioner and the two pulleys.  It's NOT one of the kits which includes the backing plate with tensioner and 1 pulley already attached.  I had to remove my old tensioner and pulley off the original backing plate then install the new ones.  The problem is the two pulleys with my kit did not come with any spacers.  I noticed the lower pulley had a thick spacer which I had to reuse.  I don't recall the top middle pulley, which attaches to the backing plate having any spacers behind it.  But upon watching this video of a timing belt change on a saab, which shows replacement of the tensioner and pulleys while using the original backing plate... I noticed the pulley attached to the backing plate had a spacer?  Can anyone confirm that this pulley is suppose to have a spacer?  I don't recall mine having one, and I unfortunately threw out the original pulleys 

Here is a link to the video of the pulley I'm talking about at 18:37 mins of the video

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WMXaw4xgogQ

I'm thinking of parking the car and ordering the Gates kit which includes a new backing plate with tensioner and pulleys already attached.   

3

Omega General Help / Coolant in Ignition Coils

« on: 01 July 2014, 02:57:06 »

Hello Gents,

I'm in the process of replacing my timing belt.  Upon removal of the ignition coil (2001 MV6) for cylinders 1-3-5, I noticed that the metal underneath the coils were full of dried white powdered crust, and the ignition coil boots had orange stains so I'm guessing dexcool got in there somehow, evaporated, leaving the residue behind.  Anyone know what can cause this???  I can't see any other way coolant can get in that area unless it is coming from inside the valve covers?   I had oil leak in that same area years back due to a bad valve cover gasket.  My HBV did leak a few months back and I did replace it.. could that be the cause of this residue?   

4

Omega General Help / Disc Brake Bolts

« on: 17 May 2014, 11:53:45 »

Anyone know the thread and size of the bolt that holds each disc brake in place (2001 Omega MV6)?  I managed to round mine off a while back.  Currently not running with them on, but what a pain in the rear to put the wheels on without them 

I'm about to do a complete brake overhaul along with GTO calipers, new pads and disc all around..might as well get this sorted out! 

5

Omega General Help / Re: Oil Cooler Plate - Resealing

« on: 07 April 2014, 04:19:34 »

Thanks for the help guys.  Just need to order the seals and I should be good to go.  Not looking forward to removing those oil lines by the filter though  .  Hoping I have a bolt in there.. kinda hard to imagine trying to fit the right size allen key when you can't even see where it goes into.  And LC0112G... if you can get a pic of that oil housing bolt/screw.. that would be great!  At least I'd would get an idea which area to target. 

6

Omega General Help / Re: Oil Cooler Plate - Resealing

« on: 06 April 2014, 11:02:14 »

I was afraid of that .  Anyone know what holds the oil filter housing to the block on a 2001 3.0 V6?  I'm getting mixed results of removing by means of an allen key or removing a bolt.  Just want to make sure I have all the proper tools ready before even starting this.  And I'm guessing I'm going to need the following seals:

Coolant Bridge:
- 4 dowty washers - for each side of coolant bridge

Oil Cooler:
- 4 alloy looking O-rings - for each side of the oil cooler pipes
- 2 O-rings between oil cooler plate and oil cooler

Oil Cooler Plate:
- Grey RTV sealer

Oil Filter Housing:
- Rubber seal between oil filter housing and engine block

Oil Cooler Pipes:
- Seals between oil cooler pipes and engine block (oil filter area)

Please feel free to add or correct what I have listed here.  I will be starting this project within the next couple of days on my days off and I'd like to order the appropriate parts in case they are not in stock.

7

Omega General Help / Oil Cooler Plate - Resealing

« on: 06 April 2014, 09:40:13 »

Hi Guys,

I have a coolant leak originating from the middle of the V part of the engine of my 2001 Opel Omega MV6.  I replaced the thermostat housing and inlet pipe seals, however the problem has not been resolved.  I will be in the process of tearing it apart again  to replace the oil cooler plate, oil cooler, coolant bridge seals.  But this time I will be armed with a coolant pressure tester  .

My question is, to remove and reseal the oil cooler plate gaskets, will the two oil lines need to be disconnected from the lower part of the engine (oil filter area)? or is it possible to move the two lines aside enough to slide the plate off? 

8

Omega General Help / Re: Oil Pressure Problem - 3.0L

« on: 31 May 2010, 05:48:51 »

No I don't hear any noise whatsoever. The car does have two sensors... one is the electronic sender for our oil gauge and one is the typical oil pressure switch what all cars have which triggers the light/alarm when the pressure is really low.  I think the oil pressure sender which is responsible for displaying  the psi on the instrument cluster will trigger the red oil light/alarm as well if the needle drops into the redzone (5 psi) of the gauge. 

I would say if the oil pressure is getting too low you'll start to notice symptoms like the hydraulic lifters getting noisy at idle, or when returning to idle after hard driving.

I would still try to measure it for peace of mind. Does the feed to the warning light use the same sensor as the gauge or is it driven from a conventional pressure switch?

If the former, one idea might be to fit a pressure switch as well, using a T piece so you've got a reliable indication of any serious problems.

Kevin

9

Omega General Help / Re: Oil Pressure Problem - 3.0L

« on: 30 May 2010, 07:21:53 »

It falls into the redzone which is at 10 psi which triggers the red oil can light.  If that's the case then this is definately a oil pressure sender issue.  As the motors are pretty much the same as the euro cars and u guys don't seem to have this issue.  Some people are leaning towards a failing oil pump which I highly doubt to be the case since there are too many people with the same issue all occurring under 200,000kms. 

Do you know exactly what the oil pressure is falling to?

Electrical oil pressure gauges are not the most reliable. The answer to why this hasn't been seen in the UK is probably that the UK cars only have a low pressure light, not a gauge, so ignorance is bliss.

All engines will generally exhibit low(er) oil pressure at idle once the oil is hot. Then again, there is no need for a lot of oil pressure without any load on the bearings.

If you're concerned I would say buy / borrow a mechanical type workshop oil pressure gauge and connect it up, just to see what the pressure is dropping to.

Using a thicker oil (e.g. a 10w40) will give you more oil pressure but a thicker oil won't flow as readily so in reality you won't have gained any extra lubrication.

Kevin

10

Omega General Help / Oil Pressure Problem - 3.0L

« on: 29 May 2010, 05:54:43 »

Hey guys,

I have a 2001 Cadillac Catera which is basically a 2001 Opel Omega MV6. 

All Cadillac Cateras here in North America comes with a 3.0L motor ....1998 to 2001. 

It seems every Catera in North America has a common issue with "low oil pressure at idle" when the outside temp is hot (above 20degress celcius).  This often occurs after the car has been driven for at least 30 mins or more... and once you stop at a red light, the oil pressure will hover above the red zone  of the oil pressure gauge (Cateras come with an oil pressure gauge).. which will illuminate the oil can or at times trigger the alarm.  This doesn't happen all the time... at one point I had to let the car idle for 10mins before the pressure began falling into the red zone.

It seems that there are A LOT of people with this issue... to a point that it seems to be a trademark with the Catera. 

Just wondering, do you guys with a 3.0L Omega have the same issue? 

I'm starting to think it may be a sensor issue since when the oil pressure is hovering at the red zone while idle... and I shut the car off, then restart... pressure is back to normal.

I also removed my oil pan to make sure the pickup screen is not clogged and it was fine.  I ran an oil flush and filled it with 10w-30, but still having this issue.

11

Omega General Help / Re: Rear Shocks - Monroe

« on: 29 March 2010, 23:39:04 »

Yes it's the correct shocks... MONROE Part # MA825

I'm just asking because I can't exactly remember if the originals were in all the way or just part way before removing them.

12

Omega General Help / Rear Shocks - Monroe

« on: 29 March 2010, 22:03:31 »

Hey guys,

I have a 2001 Cadillac Catera/Opel Omega MV6.  I recently replaced the rear air shocks (auto levelling feature) with monroe max airs which I hear are a good replacement for them.  I noticed that the bottom part of the shock doesn't seem to go all the way inside the bracket.  I have attached a pic (borrowed from somebody's thread on this forum) to explain what I am talking about.


Is that part of the shocks suppose to go completely inside the bracket?  Because these don't seem to go all the way in, but just partly so you can still see at least half of it out.  Although the bolt is all the way in and out through the other side of the bracket like the way it was before I removed the original shocks.  Is this normal??

13

Omega General Help / Re: Oil Pan

« on: 27 March 2010, 01:37:14 »

Nice!   Does the pan have grooves to put the gasket paste in?  I'm just kinda worried about excess paste going in the pan then clogging the pickup screen after I clean it. 

14

Omega General Help / Oil Pan

« on: 26 March 2010, 02:31:26 »

Hey Guys,

I'm planning on removing my oil pan in order to check the oil pickup screen for any blockages.  The car is a 2001 Cadillac Catera/Opel Omega MV6.

How easy is it to drop the pan of this car?  Are there anything blocking the pan the would have to be removed first in order to drop it? 

And I'm guessing that the oil pickup screen will be easy to see or access once the pan has been removed?

 

15

Omega General Help / Re: Oil Pan Gasket - Upper Lower??

« on: 26 March 2010, 02:34:49 »

Guys,

Is the oil pressure switch the sensor responsible for displaying the oil pressure on the dash?  My oil pressure seems to drop (enough to trigger the light) at idle during hot weather (although this only happens rarely).  I'm planning is replacing the switch or sensor to rule this out.