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1

Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: Add steering wheel controls to a 96' MV6

« on: 25 November 2025, 20:54:24 »

Steering wheel remote control installed with success

All the information above are right, that 96 MV6 was pre-wired for the SWC and it's never been modified by the previous owner. The wire that serves as remote wire for the 6 buttons was connected to the "anti-theft gnd" at the back of the original Philips SC804 radio, but was connected to nothing at the back of the wheel, because of the 4 wires SRS ring.

Here is what is needed :

- Find a 98 steering wheel
- Find a 6 wires SRS ring (the one I found is from a Vectra B)
- Buy a Connects2 CTSOP001.2 even if it's not mentioned for Omega before 98
- Buy a patch lead Ctmultilead.2





Then you need to remove the steering wheel, replace the SRS ring with the 6 wires one. I found out the airbag from the 98 model had a different connector. I ordered a SRS ring which fit my original airbag, I modified the PUR material of the airbag cover to fit the buttons, and I put back the original airbag, being sure the connection (orange connector) and any electrical specification could stay the same as before.

Then cut or disconnect the colored wires you don't need on the patch lead, for JVC you keep the orange one as described in the technical note. Next, you need to connect the SWC from the aftermarket radio to the "key1" of the patch lead, connect the GND from the patch lead to any of the gnd behind the radio. This is the only cut I had to make (I cut the small gnd of the Connects2 loom to avoid cutting the car loom).

Put back in place the airbag (needed a lot of rework with the Dremel and scalpel), connect the ISO connector to the car, and enjoy.

I will maybe upgrade this installation to something programmable in the future, because the 6th button on the left hand side does nothing, as said on the technical note delivered with the Connects2 device.















Hope it will help anybody who wants to retrofit this feature, I'm sure it's quite easy even when the car is not pre-wired

Next operation : bi-led lenses retrofit headlights

2

Omega General Help / Re: Oil in radiator header tank.

« on: 04 November 2025, 10:01:02 »

There is a solution like I said before, the part made by ACS in Ukraine is perfect. It's a bit expensive but looking at the amount of work it needs to be replaced, better to go for this aftermarket solution IMO. AND it comes with the 2 O-rings that you found flattened. They actually are O-rings and made in NBR, same material as any o-ring made for automotive industry 

https://acsparts.biz/en/maslookholodzhuvach-90412391-opel-saab.-nerzhaviiucha-stal/

https://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=151703.msg2058124#msg2058124

As for the dowty washers for the coolant bridge banjos, again, take the old one and a banjo bolt with you and go to a truck repair shop. They can find a model that is close to yours. Never reuse the old ones.
For the all metallic washers on the oil banjos, same you can ask the truck shop. In my case they gave me 4 new ones but arrived at home I found out one of them was a bit smaller and didn't fit. I reused an old one after a good clean and 400 sandpaper. It works fine.

Grey OEM Vauxhall/Opel sealant or ELRING DIRKO 70ml GREY Gasket Sealant for the plate.

Finally, to have peace of mind about any leaks, I put a very thin layer of Loctite 5923 on each face of the 8 washers and on both contact faces of the 2 O-rings. Don't put too much on those for the coolant bridge, because they need to make electrical contact for the temp sensor's ground. No RTV, only suitable Loctite 5923 which is a permanent sticky/soft mixture that never falls and never tears apart.

Take care of the peripheral components (wiring looms, tubes, connectors) and everything should be fine

3

Omega General Help / Re: Belt Kit & Antifreeze question.

« on: 21 October 2025, 16:52:06 »

Aaaah la Chouffe elle fait mal aux cheveux 

Sorry I had to

4

Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: Omega B1 "best" headunit?

« on: 20 October 2025, 09:10:58 »

Regardless the head unit, if you have the CD Changer you can unpin the R-L-Gnd from it and pin a 3.5 jack instead. You need to keep one CD in the changer for it to run and allow the R-L lines to stay activated.

Works fine and you have the best sound quality that is possible to get. Cassette adapter is really poor quality.

I personally plugged the jack to a bluetooth receiver so there is no wire running through the dashboard

Then, if you plan to install the Bose amp, you will need to find or recreate the wire harness, change all the speakers to 2ohms from Bose, and find the specific head unit to work with. And - imho - you will loose trunk space because of the amp tray.

5

Omega General Help / Re: Nonstarter

« on: 08 October 2025, 12:32:20 »

If you are sure there is no fuel coming out of the injectors, then it looks like there is something wrong with the injector's loom. Forgot to replug the connector near the coil at the back of the engine ?

6

Omega General Help / Re: Oil in radiator header tank.

« on: 30 September 2025, 09:40:23 »

The one removed from my 96 is aluminium

7

Omega General Help / Re: Oil in radiator header tank.

« on: 30 September 2025, 08:57:26 »

Of course, but Graham's Omega is a later one, assumed with a stainless steel one, and if it's broken it means any other later one can do the same because the part has maybe some weakness from its thin design.

Regarding the amount of work to change it, better to change it by a model made with a strong thick tube, and don't come back to it in 5 years

8

Omega General Help / Re: Oil in radiator header tank.

« on: 29 September 2025, 17:20:54 »

The original one is flat



If you look on the 3rd picture on ACS website, the shape is a bit square for the cooler to fit correctly in the block

You can take a look at my topic here https://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=151703.msg2058124#msg2058124 but it seems the pictures are gone

9

Omega General Help / Re: Oil in radiator header tank.

« on: 29 September 2025, 16:40:17 »

Hi mate,

I don't really know about the troubleshooting of this particular case. But I can give you some info about the oil cooler.

I replaced mine (preventive move) by a stainless steel one from ACS (Advanced Cooling System), which is Ukrainian supplier for a lot of Opel/Vauxhall parts.
https://acsparts.biz/en/maslookholodzhuvach-90412391-opel-saab.-nerzhaviiucha-stal/

The part is 113€, costs near 150€ after all customs and taxes.

It comes with both new o-rings. Then you need 4 new bi-material rings and 4 new metal rings for the 4 banjo bolts of the cooler itself and the cooling bridge.

My genuine one is still like new but it's the aluminum one, so I don't want to propose it to you it could fail at anytime

10

Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: Add steering wheel controls to a 96' MV6

« on: 29 September 2025, 14:41:37 »

Hi everyone !

Some news about this little retrofit. I found a 98' steering wheel last week, the thing arrived two days ago, I already cleaned refurbished it with ColorLock repair kit

But the interesting part is to come. I removed the original steering wheel from my car, to verify the GM code on the rotative connector or "SRS ring". The one on the car is 90507512 : it's indeed the one with 4 wires (2 yellow and yellow/white for the airbag, and 2 brown and brown white for the horn's buttons)


Then made some research about the one wired for radio control, it's 90507514 which has 6 wires.

BUT The car's loom that's plugged at the back of my 90507512 SRS ring has 6 wires. And all those wires colors match with the later model Omega.
You can see :
pin 1 = Brown (ground)
pin 2 = Brown/White (horn)
pin 3 = Red/White (radio control+ ?)
pin 4 = Blue/Red (radio control- ?)
pin 7 = Yellow/White (airbag to unit control)
pin 8 = Yellow (airbag to unit control)


It's as described on the Later Models diagram


And not corresponding the Early Models diagram, as there are only 4 wires coming out of the U20 (U20 is the SRS ring on both diagrams):


Now I must check where the two Red/White and Blue/Red go, should be at the back of the HU but pined to something non attributed on the radio while this HU is not compatible.
Opel already had pre wired car loom for this feature maybe from a certain year and month.

11

Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: Add steering wheel controls to a 96' MV6

« on: 23 September 2025, 16:43:09 »

Ooooh my bad I didn't see the Later Models at the end of the Haynes

Ok it's very helpful, there are only 3 wires, one to the ground, the two others to the radio. The Blaupunkt Skagen is SWC compatible with the analogic system of different resistive variations, I guess that their connector only uses 2 terminals. They say on the user manual :

"The programmable SWC interface on this device includes analog steering wheel presets. The device works with analogue remote controls that controls functions through different resistance values (resistance matrix) at the connector (up to 2 control lines and 1x GND). Some remote controls are directly compatible, others require a SWC interface, like system with CAN for example."

I understood the Omega works with resistance matrix.

Then, the Skagen learns any button you choose in its menu, by activating the button on the wheel. They say : "In the VARIOUS > SWC MENU, with the right knob select the function you wish to program and confirm with the right knob. The unit will now wait for a signal from the streering wheel remote control and display PRESS KEY AT WHEEL CONTROL FOR 1SEC. Press the desired key on the wheel."

Meaning that you can program the << and >> buttons as answer the phone and hang up the phone plus volume up/down, start/pause, change source etc...

Well, I'm looking for a 98 steering wheel now

12

Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: Add steering wheel controls to a 96' MV6

« on: 23 September 2025, 16:03:20 »

I can't find anything about SWC in the Haynes. Should be at diagram 1000 to 1099 but I guess the L to T registration (94 to 99 models) doesn't mention any SWC as they use early diagrams

By the way, I apology because I found several topics talking about that in the forum. My first research didn't got any info but I might made a mistake in the spelling 

The User Manual for the Skagen 400 DAB do mention the way it learns the commands : different resistive values for each button. But Blaupunkt doesn't give any info about how to connect the car loom to their SWC connector

13

Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Add steering wheel controls to a 96' MV6

« on: 23 September 2025, 13:45:06 »

Hi everybody,

I use the Omega for long journeys and even if I already managed to trick the HU to wire a jack on the CD changer channels, I'm still searching for a better user experience when it comes to "manipulate" the sound or receive phone calls. The sound is really very good for a non amplified system, an enhanced system with small amplifier and sub would complete the experience perfectly.

The car has the genuine Philips SC804 fitted. This HU has a rotative knob for the volume and it works with an "absolute orientation". I mean, the knob has a total stroke with a physical min and a physical max. Means that it cannot be used with steering wheel controls.

Now, 3 points :

- is the 96 MV6 wired ready for the steering wheel controls? If not, is it feasible to recreate the loom and retrofit a wheel ?

- the controls work with other genuine HU than the Philips SC804, I won't use a genuine HU anymore.

- the targeted HU is the Blaupunkt Skagen 400 DAB, which is ready for steering wheel controls. How can it be controlled ? Do the wheel buttons act over the MID to speak with the HU ? Do I need the 2nd gen MID ?

At the end... Is it feasible without Tech1/2 or is it a complete mess to work out ?

14

Omega General Help / Re: Fuel level tank

« on: 08 September 2025, 14:48:39 »

The fuel gauge reads full

15

Omega General Help / Fuel level tank

« on: 01 September 2025, 15:37:57 »

Hi everybody,

I don't know if it's the car normal behavior but I find the level gauge a bit pessimistic. Over the total 75 liters, when the dash lights on and the board computer says less than 100km left, I only refill 55 to 62 liters every time. You can drive way more than 100km with 15 to 20 liters

It seems difficult to know if it's the gauge and light that is out of range, the level sensor in the tank, or the tank vapors that blocks the fuel gun 

Have you already seen this kind of gap when you refill ?