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Messages - devonkev

Pages: [1] 2
1
First of all many many thanks for all the input here guys. Looks like I'm going to have a busy evening tonight!
To sixstring, I'm an electrician too so I'm hoping we should be speaking the same language!  :)

2
Thanks for the reply!

These were on it before I started it. I guess they were generated from when I was trying to start it the morning before with no real luck. It ran but wouldn't drive.

P0110 - Intake Air Temperature Circuit High Input
 (01) - Not present

P0100 - Mass Or Volume Air Flow Circuit Low Input
 (02) - Not present

P1700 - SVS request via CAN
 (00) - Not present

P0135 - O2 Sensor 1 Heater Open Circuit
 (04) - Present

P0130 - O2 Sensor 1 Open Circuit
 (04) - Not present

P0203 - Cylinder 3 Injector Circuit Low
 (02) - Not present

P0204 - Cylinder 4 Injector Circuit Low
 (02) - Not present

P0202 - Cylinder 2 Injector Circuit Low
 (02) - Not present

Then I got it running and I refreshed the list and it changed to these

P0110 - Intake Air Temperature Circuit High Input
 (01) - Not present

P0100 - Mass Or Volume Air Flow Circuit Low Input
 (02) - Not present

P1700 - SVS request via CAN
 (00) - Not present

P0135 - O2 Sensor 1 Heater Open Circuit
 (04) - Present

P0130 - O2 Sensor 1 Open Circuit
 (04) - Not present

Then I cleared the remaining fault codes and drove it around for half an hour completely fine( now its warmed up!) and checked for fault codes again. Turned it off left it for 15 minutes and started it again, still no fault codes?

Im lost! Thats why I asked about a temperature sensor?

Thanks for looking!

3
Hello everyone!

So recently my 2.2cdx auto has been starting from cold really badly. It would always start but it would be very lumpy and as soon as you would try to pull away it would nearly stall as if it was getting no fuel. It has had these same symptoms before twice. First time was O2 sensor, second time was air flow sensor and both times I had to wait until it ended up in limp mode before it would give me fault codes so I knew what to replace.

This time It doesn't really want to even get into limp mode. It starts but then dies straight away. I cleared the fault codes and then I got it to start but it would rev above 2000ish rpm with sounding like it was going to die.

I just managed to get it warm and now it is , it restarts and runs fine? Someone suggested it may be a cold start sensor or something like that gone wrong?

Any ideas wouold be much appreciated?

many thanks

Kev

4
Omega General Help / Re: Strange smells and readings
« on: 14 January 2010, 07:44:04 »
Water pump will be on the cambelt!

5
Many many thanks! Job done! Sorry i didn't reply sooner but as soon as I had the info I was outside under the bonnet!

Thanks everyone.

6
Yeah i was going to try and lock the cams unconventionally, was already making good progress when i overshot the marks (while turning the crank)  and when i went backwards it must have slipped a load of teeth (it was quite obvious something had slipped with the marks completely out now!). Anyway i just need to check exactly where everything needs to be before i can go further.
Not too bothered if its Haynes though as i've seen some on dvd/cd on ebay and i assume they are not Haynes.
If an earlier model is the same then i will gladly let someone scan me their Haynes page ::).

7
I'm supposed to be one of 200 people selected to be in the Nissan UK free race on friday morning. I have to get to Silverstone race circuit and I live in Devon.
The water pump went on my omega this morning and luckily didn't take the cambelt with it! Just went to change both and the belt slipped as the pump was barely in one piece. I cant get hold of a manual from anywhere local and postage will take too long. At this rate I wont make it to this race which I was so lucky to win a place in. :'( :'(

I only need to see the pages that show the cambelt/water pump change and I would be so gratefull if someone has a PDF version they could email me or even scan from the book I would happily pay-pal you a few quid. I'm really desparate here.
Thanks

8
Quote
Quote
This turned out to be the lambda sensor! All sorted now!


How did you identify the problem D? :)

Bought a cheapo tech 2 thing of ebay. It is the type where you plug it into a laptop with the software loaded on to it.

It pulled up these codes:

P0135 - O2 Sensor 1 Heater Open Circuit
 (04) - Present

P0030 - O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Range/Performance (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
 (08) - Present

P0130 - O2 Sensor 1 Open Circuit
 (04) - Not present

I then assumed it was the lambda sensor but phoned up a auto electrician who then confirmed my hunch when I told him the codes.

9
This turned out to be the lambda sensor! All sorted now!

10
would this do the job?
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/VAUX-COM-Diagnostic-Tool-"My Naff Code Reader"-"My Naff Code Reader"-UK-SELLER_W0QQitemZ250539561347QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_Diagnostic_Tools_Equipment?hash=item3a55525183

11
Quote
you want to get it running right on petrol first, worth investing in a 'cheapo' tech2 from eBay, you need to get your codes read.  Which will help a lot....

How does it start on petrol from cold?

Its starts first turn but then is a little lumpy/jumpy, then the feeling as if it might stall when you first pull away. This only last 30-40 seconds.

12
Quote
Quote
First thing I would check is the plugs/leads. LPG is slightly harder to ignite than petrol, it needs a "better" spark. If an engine is not running well, ignition wise, on petrol it will be a sod on LPG.

As to why the EML only lit up when you went to petrol .. dunno I'm afraid :(  have you tried papercliping it ??? It would appear that a very few 2.2's do paperclip .. you might just be lucky .. if not it needs a visit to someone with a code reader .... :(

Or even pedal trick ::) ::) ::)

Sounds to me like it's a missfire which has now gotten bad enough to throw up a fault code :-/ :-/

I tried the pedal trick with no luck!! Thanks though.

13
Quote
First thing I would check is the plugs/leads. LPG is slightly harder to ignite than petrol, it needs a "better" spark. If an engine is not running well, ignition wise, on petrol it will be a sod on LPG.

As to why the EML only lit up when you went to petrol .. dunno I'm afraid :(  have you tried papercliping it ??? It would appear that a very few 2.2's do paperclip .. you might just be lucky .. if not it needs a visit to someone with a code reader .... :(

Thanks! I will check the leads tomorrow if I can. The lack of daylight outside working hours and no garage is a real pain in the .....

Paperclip I can do anytime so I will get on that asap.

My local vauxhall garage want £45 to read the codes! The swines.

14
Quote
Does it run fine on petrol? Also are you loosing any coolant?

Lastly what kind of LPG system is it, sequential or mixer?

I wouldn't say it is running fine on petrol but it is ok. Seems to be a lack of power?

Its a sequential system.

Thanks for the quick reply!

15
Omega General Help / Warning light on when I turn LPG off?? Oh no!
« on: 02 December 2009, 19:05:16 »
So people! Learnt a lot from this forum but can't find anything about this!

Recently she has been a bit lumpy starting in the morning and after work. When pulling away after starting she hesitates so much that you would think a stall is coming so instinctivly I was backing off the fuel. The other day I just thought I would keep my foot down to see what happens and after a couple of seconds of what felt like 5 horse power she would perk up back to normal.

I have been living with this for a while but now i have noticed when crusing ( so now running on LPG ) with only a tiny bit of pressure on accelerator she seems a tiny bit jolty ( sorry best word I could think of).

Then today it got worse. Now when on LPG there is a distinct hesitation evey 3-6 seconds that almost feels like a gear change that never quite happend ( its auto ! ). So i thought it was time for an lpg service and flicked the switch for petrol and on come the orange light with the engine looking thing on it. Its stayed on all day?

Help! I don't know what to do!

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