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1

Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: Seat Swap

« on: 08 July 2010, 18:22:13 »

when i crashed my first cavalier in spectacular style (one flip and three rolls) neither the airbags or the pretensioners actually worked, same as when my brother crashed my dad's cavalier and my mate crashed his astra.  also when my brother bumped his astra at 5mph in the supermarket car park, the airbag went off and broke one of his wrists.  I'm not making any particular point by the way, just a few relevant anecdotes.

would removing the seats with the side airbags disable the whole airbag system though?  I'm still a little confused by this.

gill

2

Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: Seat Swap

« on: 06 July 2010, 20:40:07 »

I have leather seats from a 95 elite that i was planning on fitting to my 99 cd.  Does this mean the seats can't be fitted, or just that the pre-tensioners wouldn't work? i'm not that bothered if the pre-tensioners work or not, as long as the electric adjustment worked but an airbag light on in the dash could have MOT consequences and would just be annoying.
gill

ps: sorry for slight hi-jack

3

Omega General Help / Re: rear dampers

« on: 18 August 2011, 18:19:10 »

went to the scrappy but veccy shocks are totally different, and there werent any cavaliers in anymore. i had assumed veccys had a similar rear setup as cavs but apparently not.  wasnt a totally wasted trip though as i got a front prop for my landy for peanuts!

edit:  you might want to take one of your shockers off and see if you still think odd shocks would be as bad 

4

Omega General Help / Re: rear dampers

« on: 18 August 2011, 14:00:06 »

cheers for that.  been having a look around online to see if i can get a length of the shockers but with no luck.  i'm sure the damping rates will be different, but thought it might be better than nothing at all.  wasn't gonna bother buying online as by the time it arrived my dad would be back.

he works in a trade only motor factors and gets a 60% discount off trade price.  so £27 for a pair of brand new shocks rather than £48+vat for one.

was only gonna get 1 shock from the scrappy for a fiver or so until i can get the proper ones. 

the top seal has blown out and on bumpy roads (theyre all bumpy up here)  the wheel spends more time in the air than on the ground, so cornering is a bit on the iffy side, lots of sideways action and the shock loadings on the drivetrain cant be doing much good with the wheel spinning out of control in the air then suddenly gripping again when it hits the ground.

5

Omega General Help / rear dampers

« on: 18 August 2011, 11:51:58 »

hi there guys. one of my rear shocks has failed suddenly and completely making the handling...interesting.  i'll be getting a new pair when my old man gets back from holiday in a fortnight but in the meantime would the dampers off of say a vectra fit? 

my local scrappy has hundreds of veccys so if it would do a reasonable job for a couple of weeks i'll just get one to replace the knackered one.  there is no self levelling or anything like that on my omega.

i would just go and measure one but my local scrappy is 18 miles away, 38 mile round trip, two gallons of petrol, nearly 15 quid so would be god to know if they are a similar enough length.  i'm sure the damping would be different but surely better than none at all.  left hand corners in the wet are positively lethal!

cheers guys

6

Omega General Help / Re: autobox thrust washer

« on: 16 August 2011, 13:30:10 »

i thought the 2 litre was meant to do at least 35mpg on a run at least, thats the only reason i went for it and not the v6 i was looking at at around the same time!  that was an elite to!  I did know it was gonna be slow though haha

i had thought perhaps the change solenoid but i'm sure all the solenoids operated with the diagnostic machine.  couldn't say for definate though.

if i change from 2nd (on the selector) to first when going uphill, it seems to momentarily select a myterious second gear.

maybe its time to sell the car.  i would be a shame cos i love it and love driving it, but i simly cant afford the 70 odd quid a week its costing to get to work 18 miles away!  it would certainly save me from the grief i get from the other half haha ("my audi does 70mpg" "my audi, my audi" "jusdt buy an audi" "why the hell did you get another vauxhall" "told you it would be shit" etc etc ad infinitum)

7

Omega General Help / Re: autobox thrust washer

« on: 16 August 2011, 12:26:10 »

cheers for that. yeah, ATF has been changed and selector switch taken apart and cleaned.  ad it plugged into a top spec bosch diagnostic machine (dont know if tech2 or not but it cost £6'000 and seemed to be all singing all dancing)  got a couple of fault codes which i then sorted but then got a whole new set of problems!

when the car first started, all modes work fine, but holds 1st to about 25mph (regardless if hot or cold) then bangs into 3rd with a big thump, MID then says check auto gearbox.  gears can still be selected with the lever, but only after its gone into fault mode, and its missing one out.  i think its 2nd its missing cos the jump from 1st to the next gear is huge.  also when under load the revs drop as if its changed gear, then rise again.  dont know if thats engine or g/box related though.  (no engine codes present)

i've tested the output speed sensor and thats working fine as well.

its starting to get me down, and tbh the car will be going if its not sorted soon.  no matter how slowly or economically i drive i cant get more than 27mpg average, and it tends to be around 18mpg.  even my thirty odd year old landrover does better than that, and for a fairly modern 2 litre thats pathetic. 

i reckon with the g/box working, with all the gears and a lockup clutch i should get better though!

8

Omega General Help / autobox thrust washer

« on: 16 August 2011, 11:04:10 »

Hi there guys.  I've seen mention of the oil pump thrust washer quite a lot on this forum.  what exactly are the symptoms?  I still cant get my autobox to work and am now happy to clutch at any straw offered.

gill

9

Omega General Help / Re: autobox info needed

« on: 28 July 2011, 20:20:28 »

AR - Automatic Rear wheel drive, the 25 is the amount of torque it can handle i think, 250 lbft and 350 for the AR35. (could be wrong there)  the autos in cavaliers etc are AF something or others.  I'm pretty sure the internals are the same for fwd and rwd boxes

the 2.5td was fited with the AR25 and thats why they dont last more than 120'000 miles.  BMW only used the AR35 with that engine, although they used the proper name for it, the GM 4L30E (handy if (or more likely WHEN) you need to fix it, Ive never had one that works yet)

10

Omega General Help / Re: autobox fault codes

« on: 26 July 2011, 20:06:29 »

wee update.  the gearbox is holding first when the car is started off after the engine is started regardless of what is selected on the quadrant.

does the same thing, ie holds first till about 25mph then bangs into third with a big jolt then then is in limp mode.

are there any autobox gurus out there that have any idea what the problem is?

11

Omega General Help / Re: autobox fault codes

« on: 24 July 2011, 15:17:55 »

tried the car again after the battery had been disconnected for a few hours and same problem.  checked the lockup clutsch solenoid from terminal 32 and 53 on the ecu connector and got an open circuit, same for the pressure regulator solenoid, terminals 5 and 52.  checked all the connectors on the gearbox and found that the 4 pin connecotr going into the top of the small front sump would not connect in properly.  it seems to be full of crap maybe.

took off the rubber seal and managed to get the plug to connect and took the car for a drive.  before starting off, both the winter and sport modes worked again, so out of limp mode.  got to about 25 mph before it changed from 1st, but it did what it was doing originally and went into third with a thud and autobox message came up on the MID.

thinking back there was a speed sensor fault logged on the ECU when it was plugged in, but the woman testing it reckoned it was because the car was stationary and removed it.

  How would i go about checking if there is a speed signal getting to the box without having it plugged in again?

cheers, Gill

12

Omega General Help / Re: autobox fault codes

« on: 23 July 2011, 14:43:53 »

cheers for that.  I'll check the ecu later onm today.  I checked the big blue connector and it was indeed loose.  Plugged it back in but the gearbox still isn't working.  I've disconnected the battery for now and will see if that sortsthings out.

cheers again. Gill

13

Omega General Help / Re: autobox fault codes

« on: 22 July 2011, 23:47:51 »

Cheers for that. I'll check out all the connections around the battery compartment and make sure they're all tight. I did change the engine so it's quite possible something got loosened off!

Any chance you could tell me where the gbox ecu is and ill get back to you about your offer.

Cheers again, gill

14

Omega General Help / autobox fault codes

« on: 22 July 2011, 15:18:15 »

Hi there guys.  With the senator pedal box not fitting the omega, the auto to manual swap didn't go ahead.  Luckily the car did the trip to manchester and back that i was hoping to have the manual in for without any issues

anyway, the sales rep at my dad's work that deals with the diagnostic machines was kind enough to "demonstrate" one of the top of the range bosch ones on my car. 

the faults that it found were "solenoid valve/converter clutch.  signal too high or too low - possible fault code P0743" and "pressure-regulator solenoid valve signal too high or too low - possible fault code P0748"

the machine gave me pinouts, parameters and circuit diagrams to trace the fault but, here comes the daft question, where is the autobox ecu?

has anyone had these codes before and if so, what was the cause/remedy?

obviously, when i find out the location of the ecu, i'll be able to test it and the wiring, but i have found in the past that diagnostic machines often throw you in entirely the wrong direction so would appreciate some input from you guys.

if it turns out to be a duff lock up clutch solenoid and pressure regulator solenoid, where would i find these in the g-box?  are they difficult to replace is it worth my while replacing them?

if it means the box has to come out, i'll likely try to find an omega manual pedal box and go ahead with the manual swap rather than replace the autobox, but if it's gonna be simple enough i'll fix the auto as i do quite like it!

just another thing, which gear is it that is missed out when the box is in limp mode?  there seems to be a huge gap between first and second (selected using the lever) but it runs at 3'000rpm at 70mph which seems a bit high to me, so i cant tell if it's 2nd or top it's missing.  in D i only get 3rd gear.

sorry for the long post, and thanks in advance for any rpelies.

gill

15

Omega General Help / Question and pic request

« on: 03 July 2011, 10:22:35 »

Hi there guys. First a quick question. My 99 2.0 cdx has started locking the doors by itself. It happens when i unlock with fob get in then shut the drivers door. They unlock again when i start the engine. Any ideas?

Also i was wondering if anyone could post a picture of their manual pedal box. Was planning on doing my auto to manual conversion this weekend but my dad was busy and couldnt help so will have to be next weekend now.

As all my parts are off the carlonator im expecting a few differences. As i will have a cable clutch, im just wondering how different the pedal box will be and if i can just fit the clutch pedal onto the existing one. The big hole in the bulkhead is already there thankfully filled with a big grommet so hopefully they retained the same bulkhead.

Cheers in advance gill