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1

Omega General Help / Re: 2002 Omega 2.2 DTi Estate – Diesel Y22DTH vacuum issue

« on: 16 June 2021, 15:17:34 »

Thanks for your reply
   Sorry my description was rather unclear, I blame Covid Brain Fog.
The turbo spins freely, the valve mechanism is a little stiff but I don't know how free it should be (it doesn’t move when I start the engine). I don't have the actual fault codes but initially the garage said it showed EGR valve issue; the valve was replaced and everything seemed fixed until I drove on the motorway at about 60 when the turbo failed to kick in and the management light came on again, this time the code showed "boost gate fail"(I had already noticed that the turbo seemed unnaturally quiet during urban use). The garage spent some time investigating the issue but when it seemed to me that they might just keep on replacing expensive units I took he car home and decided to investigate the issue on here (there’s plenty about the infuriating problem here and some expert answers that mostly point to vacuum integrity but it takes some trawling to find all that knowledge)
   I think that the emission test for the MOT was too much for the poor motor and overstressed it; I suspect that the initial main issue was vacuum leaks and possibly later on the garage mechanic may have reconnected vacuum pipes, somewhere around the injectors, incorrectly. Currently the engine runs in limp mode, with the management light on, until it gets to about 1,800 – 2,000 revs under load, when the light goes off and I get some power (I never hear the turbo) when the engine is no longer under load it goes back into limp mode -  it seems to me that all that coincides with the EGR valve cutting in and out but it’s just a guess.
   I’ve not been a home motor mechanic since you could almost reach all the engine parts standing next to it under the bonnet, I have recently replaced a few iffy rubber elbows and connectors but, because I’m old I can’t reach many of the out of the way ones and fear dropping those I can into the dark depths.
   So, the long and the short of it is – can anyone suggest a garage/mechanic, who understands this engine in this car, relatively near to me in Surrey who can either fix it or tell me the old girl is no longer viable.
Thanks for reading

2

Omega General Help / 2002 Omega 2.2 DTi Estate – Diesel Y22DTH vacuum issue

« on: 24 May 2021, 18:52:36 »

2002 Omega 2.2 DTi Estate – Diesel Y22DTH
Hello
After an MOT back in October I began to suffer from the management light coming on, car into limp mode, and then OK(ish) above about 2000rev. I took it back to the garage; they checked, found an error code and replaced the EGR valve. Turned out the problem wasn’t fixed so they messed about a bit then told me it was then the boost gate.  Because of lockdown I couldn’t go long distances and as all the local roads are now 20MPH zones I decided to temporally live with it rather than keep replacing components.
  Having trawled through this wonderful group I’m now pretty sure it’s the dreaded leaky vacuum system issue seemingly caused by perished rubber connectors, I eventually found some spare rare & expensive rubber elbows and straights in Turkey (unfortunately before I discovered the post about using very cheap and abundant silicon tubing instead) and replaced a few obvious contenders – no real change. So I printed out the best suggestions on the forum about the issue (see below) and last week took those print-outs and spares back to the garage; again they had no luck and gave up. I suspect that back in October they pulled a few pipes apart and failed to put things back correctly, as there are no decent schematics of the system I’m not that surprised.
  I’ve read reports on here (but can’t seem find them now) that some wise guru mechanics have cured the infuriating problem for fellow members; does anyone know where I can find someone around south west London (or further afield as I can get up to 50mph on the motorway) who could help me. Obviously I expect to pay for the service.

Advice gathered from The Forum:-
“…Bottom line is that these diesel setups are simple.
A very useful diag. tool is a Gunsons Lo-Gauge, this allows you to measure the vac in the system be it pre or post actuator valve. You can also use the 'suck' method to test things by sucking on certain pipes to ensure the actuators operate.
***********************************
« Reply #39 on: 15 September 2013, 14:51:57 »
Best way to test the vacuum system is with a vacuum gauge. It should read at least 25 inches. Flick / wobble all the rubber connectors. Any drop in the vacuum reading when you disturb a rubber connector means its split or perished. The U shaped vacuum bridge at the back of the head in particular suffers from the heat and perishes or collapses, which is critical because it supplies everything other than the brake servo and causes all sorts of nasties.

The turbo is a variable geometry unit, so it doesn't need a wastegate. The device the vacuum pipe feeds is to adjust the vanes. With vacuum applied the vanes are fully extended, this is the normal operating condition at idle. When the boost sensor towards the back of the inlet manifold senses the boost approaching 2 bar, the vacuum is cut off, the vanes retract and boost is controlled.
Also, in the event of the ECU (or EDC) picking up a critical malfunction, limp mode is activated, one feature of this is that the boost solenoid is deactivated  the turbo actuator gets no vacuum so boost is inhibited.
Are you getting vacuum to the turbo actuator at idle? You should see the actuator pull towards the driver’s side of the car upon starting the engine?

« Reply #40 on: 15 September 2013, 14:57:39 »
P.S. The 2 vacuum pipes that disappear into the car, one comes from the vacuum reservoir on the pollen filter housing, feeds  into the car as a vacuum feed for the air recurculator valve for the climate, and the other comes back out of the same grommet and feeds the heater bypass valve below the exhaust.
So, the vacuum system is split 3 ways. The brake servo, the climate control feed, and the engine systems feed. Hence the need for 2 reservoirs.”

Many thanks for any help

3

Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: 2002 Cdx DTi 2.2 diesel intermittent throttle sensor - all or nothing

« on: 03 April 2014, 15:13:11 »

Thanks Tidla - all seems well.
Finally found working replacement at Derby Vauxhall Spares; the friendly and very helpful fellow said that as long as the first and last string of Bosch numbers matched mine that it would work, it was listed for a Vectra but that meant only that the bracket was different. He explained that the letters on the yellow sticker is internal Vauxhall info to be ignored.
Hope this info may be of use.

4

Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: 2002 Cdx DTi 2.2 diesel intermittent throttle sensor - all or nothing

« on: 24 March 2014, 12:08:23 »

Thanks for this, currently looking for good second hand replacement, Steve brown doesn't have any; found one on ebay listed by correct part number but wrong Bosch number. According to my removed one it should be:
(Vauxhall/OPEL: 9119063)
BOSCH:
0281 002 297
283 3000 34
09 129 106
Yellow Sticker: BG
I've found some with the 0281 002 297 number the same but all the rest different. Does anyone know the meaning of the letters on the yellow sticker, do they need to match?
many thanks for any help.

5

Omega Electrical and Audio Help / 2002 Cdx DTi 2.2 diesel intermittent throttle sensor - all or nothing

« on: 12 March 2014, 17:13:03 »

Hello and help
After months of incorrect diagnosis and "fixes" from many sources my mystery fault got less and less intermittent until it could be identified as a faulty injector pump. So I had a reconditioned pump fitted and everything was great apart from the hole in my bank account.

A soon as I got it home the throttle began to intermittently fail to work, with the engine sitting at 1500 revs regardless of the throttle position; sometimes the fuel gauge would stop working at the same time. Every time this happened the old Turn-It-Off-And-On-Again would reset the EML and everything would be fine until the next time.

I explained the fault to the chaps at the garage and they got fault code "throttle sensor not present" (can't remember the number), they reseated connections, cleaned a corroded earth to the engine and, apart from only once the next day, the fault seemed fixed.

It's now 450 miles later and the exact same fault has reappeared, very occasional at first but getting more and more frequent.

what could the source of this **** be? Any ideas most gratefully received.

Thanks
Thanks

6

Omega General Help / 02 2.2 diesel - lots of water in sump

« on: 10 February 2011, 13:48:37 »

I need help Guys
I found some info at star_whites post W**.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1277850312/2#2 (not allowed to post active link)
which may explain my problem:-
With the oil cooler bypassed, water drains directly into the sump - you can see this happening even without the engine running. (which runs fine) There were signs of tracking on the head gasket but this is far more flow than that. In the post mentioned "Same#Same#" says "it could be the vain in the block,(they are capped off when made, may have popped out)" unless there's any other possible causes this sounds feasable.
Where is this vain and can it be got at? or could the damage be elsewhere? - I've had the car three months, its been great - I bought it 'cos "they go on forever"
Is it buggered? any help much appreciated
thanks