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[MaxV6]

looking again at the wiring diagrams,  and making some assumptive guesses,

here's the thinking....

the cable colour coding system seems consistent,   as far as i can tell,   

Brown =  POSSIBLY A ground return , possibly switched.

Black+white = POSSIBLY a signal feed,  implication is a 5v feed,  as that seems to being fed to one of the more clearly labelled sensors (whatever the hell it is on the throttle body just immediately behind the ECU) 

   it would appear that some of  the devices also have individually colour coded returns to the ECU.

that being the case....

since we've show that the ground connection makes no difference,  it follows that it's likely the other side,  the source connection, 

as they're all colour coded the same,  one might conclude that the connections are shared internally to the same source output....

so....  would it then make sense to inject a 5v source ??    (


or do i just give up and  wait until i can afford to get a specialist to fit a new ECU  (this car is her transport to work and back,   she cannot do the  journey TO work on the bus , as they don't run early enough from our village to get her to work.... getting home is no problem,....   thus, i'm having to get up at 7 am to get her to work myself,  since i generally work till 3 am,   i'm not flipping happy about it....    )



the other possibility , is that this brown cable from pin29 is the +5v rail,  but that it is still knackered internally, so my grounding it has not made any difference.


what's bothering me is that I'd normally use black cable to indicate an earth/return,  and brown/red to indicate a +ve supply

[Brikhead]

I'd normally use black cable to indicate an earth/return,  and brown/red to indicate a +ve supply

on Vauxhalls brown wires are always earths, plain black wires are usually +12v...

[Nick W]

what's bothering me is that I'd normally use black cable to indicate an earth/return,  and brown/red to indicate a +ve supply

Now there's a man who is used to Lucas wiring!
Frustratingly DIN wiring codes are totally different, and in the case of earths/lives completely opposite.

[mantahatch]

I know there are some very talented people on OOF, but there are also some very useful people here http://www.astraownersclub.com/vb/
There is a rather strong modifying element on there but all site have there problems  If you have not already found it it may just give some additional direction.

[MaxV6]

i've been and registered at just about every such forum ,  and read every thread i can find dealing with this set of error codes, and closely related ones, and so on....   there seem to be only 3-4 end results

1) new ECU fixes issue


2) grounding a contact fixes issue just very rarely.

3) bridging a 5v supply from another set of sensors occasionally works short term.

4) car gets scrapped coz these days a full garage fit ECU costs about the same as replacing the car..... 



the most common answer is No1....     which irks me quite a bit.... 

[Radar]

Hope this works

http://s369.photobucket.com/albums/oo140/Radar_07/ASTA/


- See black wire with yellow top connected to bodywork (near top of shock in engine bay).
- Feed the black wire into rectangular box to left of ecu following existing loom wires
- Open the top of the rectangualr box and remove the nearest relays (2 mauve ones) - this will give easier access to the rearmost mauve relay
- Feed the black wire into the blue connector and put the red wire in the middle bottom hole as per picture. You can see another wire there so hopefully that helps with set up as the AA man did it and i'm not sure what was there before

[MaxV6]

thanks matey, i'll give it a go in the morning

[Brikhead]

I swear I'm gonna start using 'caps lock' on this Forum!

[MaxV6]

sorry Brik, not ignoring you.... the ECU itself is mounted on the Inlet assembly , bloody stupid place for it IMHO as well.....


have been through as much as i practicable ,

If i reset the ECU,   (disconnect it for 30 seconds and then plug it back in....  to clear the codes,   it's basically sometimes, but not always, as soon as the "choke" comes off , but otherwise as the engine warms up,    there's like a little hiccup after it's been running a while nicely,. (shortest about 2 minutes, longest about 10 minutes) and the EML comes on , and limp mode is engaged, and if it idles at all it's lumpy,   and prone to cutting out as the revs drop after throttle use....  or if the throttle is left unattended .....