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[Webby the Bear]

Hi guys.

As I posted before my friend has a 2001 petrol Rover 25 (1.6 I believe).

He came to me saying that sometimes (irrespective of the weather) his car won't start. It cranks (thus I ruled out a starter/charging issue) but to get it to start he always has to give it some gas. then it fires up fine.

So. I suspected something up with his fuel delivery system. It was due a service so I said first thing we'll do is change the fuel filter... serviceable item anyway. When I went to replace it I didn't depressurise the system on purpose cos I wanted to see if fuel would spray out. Weirdly it didn't. now I know from changing plenty of fuel filters they PISS fuel (I remember one time when I saw Daz he changed the FF and hit my mum in the face with petrol about 8 feet away  ). So changed the FF. No change in symptoms at all. Listened for the fuel pump. Really prominent buzzing and obviously it runs once started up so I know at least it's doing it's job so i'm assuming I can rule fuel pump out?

Just for the heck of it I went to his fuse box and check his injector fuse (fine) and his pump relay (by hooking the low amp side to a battery and hearing/feeling the click...fine).

(I of course did the obvious and checked for leaks. there were none)

So based on the fact he has to put some gas on before it starts I think I've narrowed it down to the fuel system but are we talking a dodgy injector?

i'm going to do a compression test for the heck of it. he has individual coil packs. any idea how to test these?

finally only other thing I can think of would be cam and crank sensors and making sure he's timed up correctly.

This is a great scenario as the cars really easy to work on and gives me a great chance to diagnose whilst i'm on school holiday.

look forward to your comments

[Webby the Bear]

just to add I also did a voltage leak test and vacuum leak test.... all fine 

[omegod]

Sounds more like the fuel pump getting tired or sticky, just had the same symptoms on my BMW 318 and swapped the pump.

[martin42]

If it has separate remote locking control,reprogram it,and also the spare 1 aswell,could be immobiliser fault,also check coolant temp sensor wires,if damaged it will struggle to start,does it start ok once engine fires up and warm?

[Webby the Bear]

cheers guys.

martin, yes should have mentioned once its warmed up it starts fine. coolant temp sensor needs checking? 

[TheBoy]

he has individual coil packs. any idea how to test these?

DIS with wasted spark on these, same as your Omega.  Only the 2 coils are physically seperate (one on no1 and one on no3 IIRC, with HT leads to the other cylinders).

Being BMW era, many sensor faults do not bring on EML, so worth reading codes. Also, being BMW era, although capable on OBDII, one ones built after March 2001 are (there is a S/W "upgrade" to make the earlier ones OBDII). Assuming MEMS3 ECU, of course.

Additionally check/clean the throttle assembly and the breathers.

[TheBoy]

I may have a Testbook somewhere, depends where I kept it last, so if you need the codes read, I'll see if it is in the house (else its toast with everything else)

[Webby the Bear]

Cheers TB, I'll do all that. and see if I can get an OBDII reader 

[TheBoy]

I was going to offer you my Rover 25 dealer workshop manuals - the ones they give to dealers, that she "accidentally found under her coat when leaving the premises" when she worked at Rover. But I'm pretty certain they were in the garage. Bugger.

Had a Rover 25 Book of 'dangle berries', never opened, as well.

[symes]

cheers guys.

martin, yes should have mentioned once its warmed up it starts fine. coolant temp sensor needs checking? 

if not your problem --it will be fuel pump or worse is the immobilizer