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[bigbadee]

hi all been away for awhile but back now and have a small problem
have a 1960 p4 rover been standing for a couple of months started it to day and drove approx 1/2 a mile before it cut out.Now it will start but as soon as i try and pull away it dies like its out of fuel,so we put a gallon of fresh petrol in and still the same.When i get it home will strip down the fuel and elec as it could do with a good service any way but any ideas where to look just to get it running as need it home asap thanks in advance. ps love the santas 

[tunnie]

Symes would know 

[Andy H]

What carburettor does the P4 use?

I had similar symptoms in my SIII LandRover when a piece of crud in the float bowl managed to partially block the main jet. Idle was good and tick over was strong enough for my ex to get it home but it wouldn't respond to the throttle.

[bigbadee]

to be honest Andy that was what i was thinking but wanted someone to confirm it to me cant move it on tick over as it has stopped at the bottom of a hill guess its a tow home in the morning to dark and wet now

[dbug]

IIRC P4 Rover ran a single SU card - as said drop float chamber clean crud out, make sure valve at top above float is free and not sticky, and that damper has suffucient oil.  Normal issues for SU carb thats been standing a while - 5 minute job to check/fix

[Andy H]

IIRC P4 Rover ran a single SU card - as said drop float chamber clean crud out, make sure valve at top above float is free and not sticky, and that damper has suffucient oil.  Normal issues for SU carb thats been standing a while - 5 minute job to check/fix

If it is an SU then the dashpot can get sticky (which gives symptoms as described). Simply unscrewing the cap on top and (briefly) running the engine without the threads engaged will demonstrate if that is preventing the piston from rising when the throttle is opened.

[bigbadee]

sorry andy ment to say yes its a single su we towed it home In the end,to dark now will have a look tomorrow if the weather will let me thanks for your thoughts will let you know how I get on

[Vamps]

IIRC P4 Rover ran a single SU card - as said drop float chamber clean crud out, make sure valve at top above float is free and not sticky, and that damper has suffucient oil.  Normal issues for SU carb thats been standing a while - 5 minute job to check/fix

If it is an SU then the dashpot can get sticky (which gives symptoms as described). Simply unscrewing the cap on top and (briefly) running the engine without the threads engaged will demonstrate if that is preventing the piston from rising when the throttle is opened.

And I would put a little light oil in before replacing the cap......

[Andy H]

IIRC P4 Rover ran a single SU card - as said drop float chamber clean crud out, make sure valve at top above float is free and not sticky, and that damper has suffucient oil.  Normal issues for SU carb thats been standing a while - 5 minute job to check/fix

If it is an SU then the dashpot can get sticky (which gives symptoms as described). Simply unscrewing the cap on top and (briefly) running the engine without the threads engaged will demonstrate if that is preventing the piston from rising when the throttle is opened.

And I would put a little light oil in before replacing the cap......

Light oil is the key.

IIRC SU used to specify quite a light oil but it is very tempting to use whatever goes in the sump.

[kevinp58]

IIRC P4 Rover ran a single SU card - as said drop float chamber clean crud out, make sure valve at top above float is free and not sticky, and that damper has suffucient oil.  Normal issues for SU carb thats been standing a while - 5 minute job to check/fix

If it is an SU then the dashpot can get sticky (which gives symptoms as described). Simply unscrewing the cap on top and (briefly) running the engine without the threads engaged will demonstrate if that is preventing the piston from rising when the throttle is opened.

And I would put a little light oil in before replacing the cap......

Light oil is the key.

IIRC SU used to specify quite a light oil but it is very tempting to use whatever goes in the sump.

3in1 oil is good  It could also be the unleaded fuel as it dries out it leaves a hard deposit behind thaat can block things up or stick things 

[henryd]

IIRC P4 Rover ran a single SU card - as said drop float chamber clean crud out, make sure valve at top above float is free and not sticky, and that damper has suffucient oil.  Normal issues for SU carb thats been standing a while - 5 minute job to check/fix

If it is an SU then the dashpot can get sticky (which gives symptoms as described). Simply unscrewing the cap on top and (briefly) running the engine without the threads engaged will demonstrate if that is preventing the piston from rising when the throttle is opened.

And I would put a little light oil in before replacing the cap......

Light oil is the key.

IIRC SU used to specify quite a light oil but it is very tempting to use whatever goes in the sump.

I seem to remember using ATF back in the day,they struggled with engine oil on cold mornings

[Vamps]

IIRC P4 Rover ran a single SU card - as said drop float chamber clean crud out, make sure valve at top above float is free and not sticky, and that damper has suffucient oil.  Normal issues for SU carb thats been standing a while - 5 minute job to check/fix

If it is an SU then the dashpot can get sticky (which gives symptoms as described). Simply unscrewing the cap on top and (briefly) running the engine without the threads engaged will demonstrate if that is preventing the piston from rising when the throttle is opened.

And I would put a little light oil in before replacing the cap......

Light oil is the key.

IIRC SU used to specify quite a light oil but it is very tempting to use whatever goes in the sump.

3in1 oil is good  It could also be the unleaded fuel as it dries out it leaves a hard deposit behind thaat can block things up or stick things 

That's what I used to use......

[dbug]

Yep 3 in 1 oil ideal - use it in the 2 x 2" SUs on the 4A