Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length

[Bojan]

As for TC -> £600 is a lot of money, but also a realistic price for this kind of work. Gearbox and diff parts are expensive, and there is usually no aftermarket parts (just OEM).
However, giving around £1000 (£300 for LSD + £600 for potentially needed overhaul) is too much for something that gives results that are only noticable in some occasions.

I had an idea about something that uses some elements of ESP -> additional brake calipers (electric probably), that brake the rear wheel when it starts spining much faster that the opposite rear one. It would be controled by it's own control unit, and would use ABS sensors.

[Bojan]

Would some Quaife unit or semething similar fit into the casing?

Obviously, probalbe would need to make a ring that bolts on CW.
But if I found unit that has the same spline as omega shafts, and it is not to big for omega casing, that cuold work.

[05omegav6]

As for TC -> £600 is a lot of money, but also a realistic price for this kind of work. Gearbox and diff parts are expensive, and there is usually no aftermarket parts (just OEM).
However, giving around £1000 (£300 for LSD + £600 for potentially needed overhaul) is too much for something that gives results that are only noticable in some occasions.

I had an idea about something that uses some elements of ESP -> additional brake calipers (electric probably), that brake the rear wheel when it starts spining much faster that the opposite rear one. It would be controled by it's own control unit, and would use ABS sensors.

What you suggest is already done by the ABS on 2.6/3.2 powered cars

[zirk]

To put it short -> I don't want to make it a 'drift car', but want it to be 'driftable'.

I had an idea about something that uses some elements of ESP -> additional brake calipers (electric probably), that brake the rear wheel when it starts spining much faster that the opposite rear one. It would be controled by it's own control unit, and would use ABS sensors.

In one hand your talking about fitting LSD and making the car Driftable?, then on the other is to fit additional ESP to control the wheel spinning? the two dont really go hand in hand, what is it your actually trying to achieve.?

[Bojan]

That wit 'ABS' was just an idea at one moment. But it wouldn't work as I would like.

Only reason I would like some sort of LSD is that I really hate when, while I go trough a tight bend and boot it, one wheel starts spining and another doesn't. And I want both wheel to spin in this situation.

[Kevin Wood]

I think, if I were desperate for a working LSD, I would probably be looking into modifying the subframe to fit a diff for which there is a well supported aftermarket LSD such as the Quaife available.

Production car LSDs are always designed for safety rather than maximum traction anyway, so their action is always relatively mild for a heavy car such as the Omega, and friction based diffs such as the Omega's LSD will probably be shot by now (or very soon will be if you are using them for drifting!).

Mind you, I think the Quaife is only really effective if there is "some" load on the inside wheel. If it unloads completely (i.e. is airborne) the diff will open.

Any option is expensive relative to the value of an Omega these days.

[zirk]

That wit 'ABS' was just an idea at one moment. But it wouldn't work as I would like.

Only reason I would like some sort of LSD is that I really hate when, while I go trough a tight bend and boot it, one wheel starts spining and another doesn't. And I want both wheel to spin in this situation.

In that case stick to the original plan, fit LSD and turn the TC off, but a word of warning heavy right foot with tight corners, when the LSD kicks in you will loose the back end. The Omega is not a light weight car that will bounce around corners, when the back end goes, it goes, and taking your foot of the loud peddle when your facing in the wrong direction doesn't help. 

Best you polish up on your opposite lock skills and put some money aside for new tyres and replacement suspension in the near future. 

[Bojan]

I do tight-cornering with some degree of back-slide (itentionally) most of the time. Counter-steer is a part of every day driving for me.
The problem is that it is not 100% predictable -> sometimes it just spins one (inner) wheel, while other holds traction -> in this case there is no back slide, just lot of noise.
I'm not affraid of the back-slide, I just want it to be achivable every time I wish.

In short: want to eliminate one-wheel spin on power-over.

2 Kevin wood - I have explored all this options in my head, and in the end, it allways comes to 'either leave the diff as it is, or weld it up'.

I'm sorry if I've made this topic a bit mess, not explaining clearly what I want.