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[chrisr]

Is there a step by step guide to replace the radiator on a 2002 2.2 petrol? I've been putting it off for a while now but really need to get it done soon. Is there anything I need to watch out for?
Thanks.

[TheBoy]

No aware of a guide, but 4 pot should be easier than V6 due to less intake stuff to remove.

Its a case of draining, and just working your way through.  If its an auto, you will need to undo the auto cooler connections, and some cars have the A/C condenser pipers stupidly going over the top of the rad, meaning they have to be disconnected as well.

From memory, its:
3 coolant pipes
2 electrical connectors
2 autobox cooler pipes (if auto)
1 pair of A/C lines if they go over top of rad - if they go to side, you can leave undisturbed

The rad is held in with a large clip each side at the top. you may have to remove the condensor screws at top to allow sufficient movement.

[Doctor Gollum]

The AC stuff can stay in situ.

The oil cooler lines are a single connection point. Simply unbolt it and tuck the plumbing end up by the expansion tank. Cover both ends.

Unplug and remove the fan shroud as the first order of business. The hardest part of the whole job is probably going to be getting the screws out of the top cover.

When you refill the system, climate to Hi on both sides with the fan to the lowest speed. Leave the cap off and let it idle. Once the fan kicks in twice, check the level and top up as required. Repeat with the cap on and call it done.

[Nick W]

Remember to fit the fan switch before putting the radiator in the car.
Ensure the sealing washer isn't stuck to the old radiator too...

[TheBoy]

The AC stuff can stay in situ.

Not on all, as the A/C lines on some come over the top of the rad, and need the condensor/dryer removed before you can get at the rad.  I can't remember exactly what variants/years this is on though.

But dead easy to check, as obvious once plastic panel is off

[Doctor Gollum]

I know I never disconnected anything on the V6 except for the trans cooler on facelift cars. There's probably enough scope to leave the trans cooler lines attached on the 4 pot. Another consideration is that the 2.2 is a facelift only engine

Can't recall if I changed the radiator on my last 2.2 estate, I probably did given all the other work I did to it, but again nothing stood out as being exceptional 

I think the 4 pot radiator is a smidge narrower than the V6 one as well, so finagling it in and out should be much easier.
It only needs lifting far enough to get the rubber blocks out and be able to lift the pegs over the back of the upper mount so you have easier access to the condenser/trans cooler bolts... They both stay in situ.

[TheBoy]

I know I never disconnected anything on the V6 except for the trans cooler on facelift cars.

My memory is a bit vague, but fairly certain it was a later car where the A/C lines came over the top of the rad, unlike most Omegas where they a re to the side of the rad.  It was one of those moments the first time I saw it when you had to ask what GM designers were smoking, seeing as they had previously managed to do it perfectly well.

Its not a common setup, but I've seen it on more than 1 Omega.

As said, dead easy check for OP to make, as if it does, it makes the job more difficult if you want working A/C after.

[Doctor Gollum]

Possibly a diseasal thing

The AC lines are a bit of a nuisance where they run along the chassis rail and around the front panel.

Ok, it's a 2.0 one, but...

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/113709308363

You could change ethe alternator through that gap

[TheBoy]

Possibly a diseasal thing

95% certain this was on a minority of V6s

[RallyArde]

Far as I remember, when replaced my rad (in V6), the AC-lines where bit on the way, but I didnīt have to disconnect them. As they came from drivers side over the rad (in LHD cars), I needed to raise the other (passengers) side of tha radiator first and then it can be slid off from its place pretty easily