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[toller]

I failed my MOT yesterday but only on very minor things,  3 bulbs were out and the handbrake was coming up too high.  I've put the bulbs in this morning but when i've been to adjust the handbrake the nut is absolutely stuck solid to the threaded stud.  It's been soaking in plus gas over night and thats made no difference at all.

I could probably move it but access is an issue with the propshaft and exhaust both being in the way and the entire mechanism twisting when you put a spanner on it.

Does anyone have any tips on how to free it up?  If not i'll be paying a visit to screwfix in the morning to buy a blow torch  

[106rallye]

you could ajust the handbrake from inside the drum if it came to that.

[rickyboy]

I've just put new handbrake cables in.  Whatever you do, don't follow the Haynes manual which will tell you to remove the exhaust and the propshaft.  I spent too long undoing half of that before finding that you can get access to the adjuster by removing the central exhaust heat shield.  

Just undo the three or four bolts holding the heat shield on and slide it out.  You should now be able see the adjuster, at least.  You can pull the cables and threaded bolt towards you to get better access then get a 13mm spanner and you should be able to turn it with a bit of effort and WD40.  Just hold the threaded bolt with one hand and turn the spanner with the other.

Good luck...

[alank46]

Hi
Initial adjustment should be done at the drum not at the cable.  Only when the drum adjustment is correct should the cable be adjusted and then only if necessary, which it probably will not be.
Alan

[ians]

I think he already has access to the central adjuster.  

There is a maintenance guide on here which works well.

My recollection of the proceedure is
- slacken off the central adjuster so cable is loose
- adjust left and right drums so they are just off biting, and in balance
- retighten central adjuster such that the handbrake comes on fully between about 3 and 7 clicks

I have had two cables that had seized where they leave the outer sheath at the back, so worth checking that the cable moves there freely.

I would persist with the central adjuster with Plusgas (wonderful stuff) and a 13mm spanner (long socket or a stubby spanner worked well for me)

[bigdods]

Adjustment is not via the cable - I know this as when mine needed doing the mechanic popped a wheel off , stuck a screwdriver in a hole in the hub and clicked away . Sorted and looked very easy.

See I'm technical I am ,,,  

[Kevin Wood]

Adjustment is not via the cable - I know this as when mine needed doing the mechanic popped a wheel off , stuck a screwdriver in a hole in the hub and clicked away . Sorted and looked very easy.

See I'm technical I am ,,,  

That's the lazy way of doing it though. The correct procedure is to adjust each hub with the cable relatively slack and then use the adjuster under the lever to take out the slack in the cable.

Kevin

[Marks DTM Calib]

Adjustment is not via the cable - I know this as when mine needed doing the mechanic popped a wheel off , stuck a screwdriver in a hole in the hub and clicked away . Sorted and looked very easy.

See I'm technical I am ,,,  

That's the lazy way of doing it though. The correct procedure is to adjust each hub with the cable relatively slack and then use the adjuster under the lever to take out the slack in the cable.

Kevin

Thats the only correct way to do it!