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[geoff]

just changed my wishbones ,car pulled to the left when braking and steering wheel wobbled like made when braking hard,i got them for 35 pounds a side ,drives side one front big bush totally split hense the wobble and the back bush was split and metal to metal,not to bad to change ether which made a change 8-) 8-) 8-)also the car used to grab a bit turning right and felt out of control,werse in the wet,all good now though drives like new now 8-) 8-) 8-)

[JezInBrum]

What I have read explains why my front right tyre has been ripped to bits. Noticed that when braking steering went wooly with slight pull to left. I parked up with car on full lock & as i walked by glimpsed the inner edge of the tyre.
completely back to canvass & stlle coming through as well. Dawned on me that last MOT had mentione bush showing signs of wear. Wishboned were replaced 17k ago so would have expected a bit more life before having to replace bits but there we go.
Just as well I have another car to use in mean time.

[Golfbuddy]

Blimey Martin,

Haven't done 'bones in ages, but I don't remember them being quite that troublesome!  :-?

I suspect that's because you did it right.  

To all wishbone virgins out there, there are three golden rules as I see it.

1. Fit the rear bolt first
2. Fit the rear bolt first
3. Fit the rear bolt first

After that it's all plain sailing.

I am fitting the passenger side on Tuesday night and will try to remember to take and post as many photos as possible.  

[Neil_MV6]

Getting the rear bolt in on the passenger side can be an absolute cow.  

It's not too bad on the drivers side becasue you can use a long 'thing' to push it through from above (in my case an upside down golf putter), but there's no room at all to get any leverage on the bolt to push it back through on the passenger side.

Because of this, the wishbone needs to be perfectly aligned to get the bolt to 'drop' through which ain't easy if you're not lucky.

Took me about two hours to coax the bolt through....not a pleasant experience.  

[HerefordElite]

Getting the rear bolt in on the passenger side can be an absolute cow.  

It's not too bad on the drivers side becasue you can use a long 'thing' to push it through from above (in my case an upside down golf putter), but there's no room at all to get any leverage on the bolt to push it back through on the passenger side.

Because of this, the wishbone needs to be perfectly aligned to get the bolt to 'drop' through which ain't easy if you're not lucky.

Took me about two hours to coax the bolt through....not a pleasant experience.  

BIG screwdriver through from underneath and lever the 'bone into place while you employ a small monkey to climb down and pop the bolt in

seriously if you can lever the rear bush into place then wiggle the bolt in from below to line up then put in the right way (from above) it is a pig

top tip(stolen ) use spring compressors to pull strut up to get bottom balljoint in (i struggled )

[CaptainZok]

Another top tip, make sure you've 2 21mm sockets in your kit, I hadn't and ended up walking to the car shop for one.
Of course they seemed to have every size but the one I wanted, luckily a 21mm plug socket fits.

[Neil_MV6]

I undid the bolt at the top of the strut in engine bay, then tied the strut to the side, but still found the anti roll bar restricted the amount you could lift the wishbone.

There must be a technique Vx mechanics employ to do these regularly??

[HerefordElite]

I undid the bolt at the top of the strut in engine bay, then tied the strut to the side, but still found the anti roll bar restricted the amount you could lift the wishbone.

There must be a technique Vx mechanics employ to do these regularly??

remove the ARB drop link first - i'd advise to change these at same time as WB coz they ain't to expensive

[CaptainZok]

I undid the bolt at the top of the strut in engine bay, then tied the strut to the side, but still found the anti roll bar restricted the amount you could lift the wishbone.

There must be a technique Vx mechanics employ to do these regularly??

remove the ARB drop link first - i'd advise to change these at same time as WB coz they ain't to expensive

Yup drop link and track rod off makes it much easier to get the ball joint into the strut.