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[feeutfo]

watch the DVD again Chris

did not have the dvd Pete  

[ngrainqey]

just a quicky, where abouts is the engine number on the x25 lump?
need to check it to get right cam belt kit
thanks

[Andy B]

just a quicky, where abouts is the engine number on the x25 lump?
need to check it to get right cam belt kit
thanks

Your V5C is easier & cleaner, assuming of course it's still on its original engine.  

[feeutfo]

there is an angled cast flat piece between the oil filter/crank sensor, and gear box. Number/gear box type on there. As Andy says tho. Log book/v5 is easier.

[ngrainqey]

thanks for the replies,
i'd just bought the car so havnt got logbook back from dvla (forgot to check it before it got sent off)

i changed my belt the other day, gonna have it back off and see if i can get the timing better... dont worry i'v not run it, it just got really late so couldnt be arsed to take it back off again...

when your working clockwise on the 2.5 with adjustable lower idler it always seems a tooth out/ not pick up on cam 4 and is half a tooth out- i spent about half an hour trying to move it over half a tooth with the cam locks on lol! also is it me or do you not really need the cam lock on 3 and 4 if you get it onto the marks (cam 4 turns slightly by hand for maybe 10 degrees clockwise/5 anticlockwise)

going to have another go in the morning anyway- want to drive my toy

[feeutfo]

It's easier if you turn the crank back from TDC by about a tooth (10 degrees officially, I think) to give you some slack on the right hand belt run up to cams 3 and 4 then feed the belt round the crank pulley, over the cam pulleys and round to the tensioner. Then turn the crank back to tdc to give you enough slack to go over the tensioner and slip the belt on.

.. and if you've got a VX belt with no markings on it's a PITA because you'll find it's a tooth out and you have to start again.

Kevin

I think this is what Kevin is refering to above, on 1st page of this thread, basically undo the crank lock tool and winde it back half a tooth.

Ive not had the issue on this car or my previous 2.5, so cant really comment to much.

 I dont think i would be taking the cam locking tool out though, i never saw the need to do that. Be aware there are other marks on the cam wheels, i believe, and if the bugger slips/pings round youll need to be sure you have the correct mark again.

I presume the belt is coming up loose, that is to say, when wound on a revolution, and the crank tool back in the correct position, that cams 3/4 are late by half or a whole a tooth?...the bottom guide wheel is adjustable on your 2.5?, so obvious question, is it slack enough to apply the belt in a tighter position to bring the adjustment in range?