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[murse]

Hi again, my car has the usual rust at the lower rear corners of the rear doors - sure most of you know what I am talking about!  The last one I had did exactly the same thing but was not worth sorting, current cdx has flawless bodywork otherwise, so thinking about getting it sorted properly.  Next to no places round here (Cambridge) who seem to do bodywork so a bit hard to get quotes, have had one place recommended but can anyone give me a rough figure I should be looking for to avoid getting ripped off?  My trusted garage 'doesn't do bodywork'!

Any advice, as always, much appreciated  

[vauxfan2k]

I cut the corner out a donor door that was mint and had it welded in to my own door and painted etc by our local place when the did proper paint. still like new to this day 3 years later

[VX1]

Or what you could do is find a good door with no or little rust on it. If you get another door and it has a little rust then using a grinder very carefully grind the rust out as much as you can then you rust eater on it. Once you have done this, and only if you have done it properly, then use some decent primer and cover the whole of the door, rub down again. Repeat this until you are happy with the finish then purchase enough paint (spray can) and respray the door and rub down with very fine grit wet & dry and repeat the spraying until your happy with the finish. Leave for the paint to harden (couple of weeks) then go over with laquer until done.

HTH

Paul  

P.s Thats what I have done with a door I have as the rust is very bad on the rear off side door. Just need to finish the door off now by rubbing it down again and respraying, then I can remove everything off the door on the car and refit into the new door.

[holtender]

Could be between half and a full days labour charge, depending on how much rust . The cost of that would vary from one bodyshop to another.

One thing about rust repairs that I always recommend is to make sure you remove every trace or it will just return , so if a body shop is doing it make this known.

I never once used a "Rust eater" type product in the many years I worked in a Bodyshop . You just cannot leave any trace of rust behind if you want to do a job that will last.

[sev]

if you're going to use a rust eate, just go into a paint factor's and get them to mix up an aerosole of 'etch primer'.

On production lines, it's the second stage dip after galvanising, and it preps the surface for paint, and it's what's used in bodyshops for bare metal prep.

Oh and if you do go for it yourself, don't wait two weeks for the paint to dry before laquer.

Clearcoats are designed to go on wet on wet, meaning that after letting the base colour coat flash off for 10-20 minutes, then you go on with the clearcoat - normally two coats of base, two of clear.

ideally if you want to keep costs down, you might want to think outsdie of the box and find a college that has a paint refinishing course, you'll only pay for materials then, and it'll be a half passable job.

last of all, you might want to consider masking the back of the door visible in the arch, and spray a rubberised stone chip protector on it for added protection in this vulnerable area.

before anything though, wash and cut the paintwork back thoroughly, you need to have the oriinal colour as much as possible showing otherwise your colour match is going to be miles out!