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[Bionic]

V6 2.5 petrol Omega...How hard is the crankshaft front oil seal to change? Is it fairly straightforward or as usual for this model, a right arkward bitch?
Regards
Ray

[andyc]

Hi Ray

The seal fits in the pump front the front so you haven't got the take the pump off.

What you will need to do is to drop the timing belt off and remove the belt sprocket of the crank.

Once thats done you can flick the seal out and fit a new one.

Just remember / budget for a new belt kit as well, if oil has leaked onto the belt it will be knackered anyway

Cheers
Andy 

[Bionic]

Bit confused mate? Are you referring to the oil seal that seals the bottom crankshaft pulley cos that is the one that is leaking? Didn't know there was any pump there.
Regards
Ray

[GPar]

No pump on crankshaft on V6. Pulley has to come off and is held on by a very, very tight bolt iirc. Garage did mine when I had the cambelt done and had a right struggle.

Geoff

[Bionic]

Cheers mate,
that gives me a bit more idea of what I face. What did it cost you?
Regards
Ray

[GPar]

Not sure about cost to replace the seal on it's own. As I said, I had it done when the cambelt and water pump was changed. Total cost was £250 but I supplied the cam kit and water pump.

I would have thought two hours labour max plus the cost of the seal (not a lot).

Geoff

[Darth Loo-knee]

I have read this thread a time or two now and still I am a little confused too :-?

There is a post that says "No pump on crankshaft on V6" the oil pump sits at the front of the engine on a V6, the the crank come through the oil pump. This is where the front Crankshaft Oil Seal is.
To get to replace this seal the Crankshaft Pulley has to be removed, so does the Cambelt, so does the Crankshaft Sprocket, which has the super tight bolt to hold it into place. 

[Matchless]

The oil pump is on the front face of the block on the V6, the crankshaft oil seal presses into it and the lower cambelt idler is bolted to it.

To change the seal you have to remove the cambelt so need a locking & timing kit. You then st the crank at 60 deg. before tdc (to protect the valves) and remove the cambelt crank sprocket by undoing the centre bolt but to do this you must use a long bar bolted to the sprocket to stop the engine turning, do not try any other method or you will shear the keyway inside of the sprocket. You will need a breaker bar plus extension pipe on the bolt plus about a metre bar bolted to the sprocket. You have to be careful to stop the crank turning or you will be replacing bent valves as well.
Once the sprocket is off the seal levers out easily, then pull off the spacer and turn it around so the new seal has fresh metal to run on and press in the new seal. You should use a new sprocket bolt as it is a stretch bolt. Tightening torque is something like 250nm + 60 deg.
Then replace the cambelt etc.

[Matchless]

I see you are in Leicester, I am on the south side of Nottingham and I have a ready-made crank holding tool and I know a man who has a necessary adaptor to do this job.

[Bionic]

Thanx for that, I may take you up on it but in the meantime I have to get the NS Ex Manifold gasket changed so looking into how I can do it easily. Don't suppose you know?
Regards
Ray