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[Omegadoha, Desert Member]

Whats the condition that causes your steering to continue to turn by itself when you're already turning? It's like when you turn the wheel slowly and move forward, the steering wheel happily rotates by itself. I've noticed this following having my shock absorbers changed.

[Kevin Wood]

Do you mean it centres itself or it keeps turning into the turn?

The forces generated by the suspension geometry (Caster angle in particular, IIRC) should cause the steering to self-centre, in general.

I wonder if the suspension geometry has been upset by the recent work?

Kevin

[Omegadoha, Desert Member]

Do you mean it centres itself or it keeps turning into the turn?

The forces generated by the suspension geometry (Caster angle in particular, IIRC) should cause the steering to self-centre, in general.

I wonder if the suspension geometry has been upset by the recent work?

Kevin

It keeps turning into the turn. Does it mean that the geometry needs resetting?
I also noted that the rubber around the track rod joint out end is beginning to crack, so is it worthwhile getting this done as well?

I know the link rods are bent after only changing them 2 yrs ago. But this might have been due the poor condition of shock absorbers.

So sounds like I should get the geometry done after changing the links and rods.

[Kevin Wood]

I will have to see what mine does in comparison.

Certainly at small deflections from the centre position the steering should self-centre. Maybe if a lot of lock is wound on this will change but it does sound odd if it is doing it with small deflections of the steering.

When I put my kit car on the road the inspector drove it to ensure that the steering self-centred as this is a requirement of the single vehicle approval. Obviously it doesn't do much for stability of the vehicle if you have this "positive feedback" effect on the steering.

How does the car drive?

It would indeed be a good idea to replace any parts such as track rod ends that are deteriorated before getting the suspension geometry checked / adjusted as replacement of these parts will affect the geometry.

Kevin

[Kaycee]

i have thishappen to me it was failed wishbone bushes

[Omegadoha, Desert Member]

i have thishappen to me it was failed wishbone bushes

Thanks. I had the wishbone bushes checked out, but these are Ok (for the moment anyway).

[Omegadoha, Desert Member]

I will have to see what mine does in comparison.

Certainly at small deflections from the centre position the steering should self-centre. Maybe if a lot of lock is wound on this will change but it does sound odd if it is doing it with small deflections of the steering.

When I put my kit car on the road the inspector drove it to ensure that the steering self-centred as this is a requirement of the single vehicle approval. Obviously it doesn't do much for stability of the vehicle if you have this "positive feedback" effect on the steering.

How does the car drive?

It would indeed be a good idea to replace any parts such as track rod ends that are deteriorated before getting the suspension geometry checked / adjusted as replacement of these parts will affect the geometry.

Kevin

it's only noticeable when say you're parking up in a car park and you're moving slowly with a reasonable amount of turn on the wheel. At that stage the wheel will turn further into the turn as you move. Not present on small deflections or roundabouts or going round the corner. Otherwise car drives OK, tramlining still present possibly due to track rod wear.

[feeutfo]

The centering while driving is castor angle related. For instance pull out of a side road onto a main road and let go of the steering and the car should straighten out on something like the correct line, if you have to pull the steering back straight it needs a steeper caster angle. Its not officially adjustable on the omega, but it can be tweaked by moving the entire front sub frame forward and back.

However, the fact your only really feeling the symptom when moving slowly, and i guess with a fair amount of steering lock applied? May well mean that the camber is not set correctly. This is set by the 2 bolts at the bottom of the shock which are ovalised allowing the hub to lean in and out depending on the correct settings. If you watch the wheels when you turn the steering from lock to lock when stationary, you'll notice they lean over a noticeable amount, and the front of the car will move side to side as you move the wheel.  In this full or extreme lock position camber angle also has an affect on the caster centering sensation of the steering wheel in your hands because of this leaning as i understand it.
 
Shock replacement does not involve undoing the sub frame bolts. So the caster angle will not have altered. But the camber will, without a shadow of doubt, be wrong with new shocks fitted. I strongly recommend full geometric set up, before you drive anywhere else, or your tyres will wear unevenly and become "geared" to pull one way or another. This "geared" shape to the profile will then affect the tyre for the rest of its life meaning even when set up correctly the car may still pull left or right until the tyre is replaced. Hth :-)

[Omegadoha, Desert Member]

Regarding the track rod ends, I did notice a bit of light cracking in the outer rubber, inner rubbers seemed Ok. However, on jacking the car up there was no side to side movement in drivers side wheel and a very small amount in the passenger side. Does this mean that the track rods are probably ok?

I was intending to renew the track rods anyway, however they are priced at £130 each after discount, so quite pricey.