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[Alldi]

Self levelling springs are different from normal ones apparently. I got a pair of ZF ones from Autovaux for £103 all in last year.

[feeutfo]

Self levelling springs are different from normal ones apparently. I got a pair of ZF ones from Autovaux for £103 all in last year.

Indeed, sl are softer and give a comparatively wobbly ride. I have fitted firmer springs with self levelling shocks recently.

[markomega25]

Well, Buypartsbuy have mailed me today. Self levelling springs (KYB part No RJ6227) £31.51p plus VAT each, so £74 a pair. So with delivery total cost is  £82.86p. That's more like it

I think I will order those today [edit - now ordered]  and bite the bullet and get the shocks from VX.

[Varche]

Result.

[markomega25]

Up-date,

Picked up the rear shocks from VX on Friday. They called me in the morning to say they were in, so good service (although at £272 I would hope so). The come with new top rubber bushes and new top nut.

Springs have not arrived yet from Sutton Automotive - via Bypartsbuy, but then they do say 2-3 working days delivery and I ordered them late on Wednesday. So I guess they will arrive later this week.

Consequently, I have not fitted the new shocks yet. But yesterday I took the old one off the offside. The moment I released the bottom mounting and extended the old shock down, it started pissing oil all over the place from a pin hole in the shocks inner sleeve. I guess the MoT man was correct to advise they needed replacing last year.

So, whilst waiting for the springs, I did some remedial work on the rear disc/drum. Cleaned it all up. The whole disc/drum assembly took 2 hours to get off. In the end I resorted to a big whack with a hammer from underneath after using copious amounts of plus gas and rust freeze! Note there is only a small access area from the rear, (no jokes please) so whaked the disc wilst turning it 180 degrees and it eventually came off (no jokes please).

The disc pads came out - no problem (interesting to note that the pads had a soft fibre backing - presumably anti squeel, and these were indented with piston marks), put them back in with copper slip. so hope they work ok.

But the real bas"""d was the drum handbrake pads. Getting the retaining springs back in was hell! Those twist fit pins seemed to slip inside the backing plate in a cavatiy, tooks ages to get them secured using a 2mm plate to slip between the two backing plates to hold the pin in place. How odd, even cars of 40 years ago were easier to do and had access to the rear of the pin. That's progress I guess.

Will post some pic's later.

One thing though! I always imagined the rear springs would be set into a cup at the bottom where it meets the lower trailing arm, but no - so my broken spring is simply resting on the rubber flange. Not good. So I have been potentially riding about for a year with a spring that could have popped out of location anytime?

[Kneepad]

But the real bas"""d was the drum handbrake pads. Getting the retaining springs back in was hell!

This worked for me: use a drift or screwdriver and hammer, and knock back the edges of the hole in the backplate that have pulled through. File the part of the pin that goes through the hole so that it is resembles more of an arrowhead ^ the backedges of the arrowhead will grip better.

[markomega25]

I understand what you are saying. However the pin had not pulled through the outer securing plate. So no need for that remedial work.

My problem was there are no holes in the inner (inboard) larger backplate opposite the pin. The two backplates have an internal recess (cavity) where the head of the pin wobbles about in.

I might consider drilling a hole in the final inner backplate opposite the head of the pin just to allow one to put a screwdriver or dolly in and hold the pin in place when compressing the spring etc. and allowing you to turn the pin 90 degrees to locate in the cap. It is difficult to turn the cap 90 degrees when it is under compression.

But the real bas"""d was the drum handbrake pads. Getting the retaining springs back in was hell!

This worked for me: use a drift or screwdriver and hammer, and knock back the edges of the hole in the backplate that have pulled through. File the part of the pin that goes through the hole so that it is resembles more of an arrowhead ^ the backedges of the arrowhead will grip better.

[Kneepad]

I see what you mean, it's a different setup from mine. I have a pin with a large head (outboard end), larger than the spring diameter with a slot for a screwdriver and the business end goes through a slot in the backplate, easy enough to push and turn with a screwdriver, just wouldn't grip the backplate well enough.

Your idea of drilling a second hole on yours should work quite well it will allow you to get some kind of packing in behind the pin.   

If the pin is steel I suppose you could try a tack weld if you have the gear.   :-/

[Teebee]

My problem was there are no holes in the inner (inboard) larger backplate opposite the pin. The two backplates have an internal recess (cavity) where the head of the pin wobbles about in.

I just did the drums on mine and to be honest I wouldn't bother drilling. I found the best plan was to rebuild the brakes in a certain order starting with the pin and spring you are referring to. I slid a wallpaper scraper in that gap then angled the pin away from the hub, the pressure of pushing it to one side stops it moving and I popped the clip on with ease (and you're not trying to work through the access hole).

Then reassemble all the springs and adjuster and lever however suits you leaving the 2nd spring & clip to very last. I then used a modified version of MarksDTM spanner trick, get the spring and clip in place lined up ready to push on (if possible have someone push a screwdriver against the pin which is visible on this side). Now push the spring in through the access hole (dont turn), one you have space drop a 13mm open end spanner in the top. Repeat but this time drop a 14mm spanner in front of the 13mm, at this point I just turned the pin as it had no pressure on it.

So much easier once you have a plan!

[markomega25]

Still waiting for the springs to arrive, maybe later today or tomorrow!

Meanwhile, rear disc/hubs cleaned out and serviced. Car washed (been in the garage for 3 months) and ready for a new windscreen (and springs).

That leak is still there, a globule or two (wine glass full) of oily antifreeze was on the garage floor, not a lot but enough to slip around on - guess it might be the HBV and the oil cooler!

More £ I guess!

Wishing I had an old car now. With self adjusting rear brakes, no CPU or any electronics apart from a start and go button!