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[Liam]

Thanks guys. I'll be checking out egr (just remembered I, er, made a 'gasket' for it out of loctite stud and bearing fit on assembly when feeling slightly frustrated about something else. Could have at least used the VX grey sealant couldn't I ), and check out ICV before contemplating anything more drastic.

Cheers

[Liam]

UPDATE:

Well been playing with it today. Still not wanting to idle when the throttle is fully closed and relying on the IACV. Using the throttle stop adjustment screw hidden under the plastic cover where the throttle and cruise cables connect I put a few turns on the screw and it can idle a little high around 750 - 800 ish without cutting out.

I then decided to take it for a drive. Put 15 or so miles on it and gave it a proper test. Seems to run fine and pull smoothly to the redline under load and appears to make full power. A few more points to note from the drive:

Runs at normal temp - doesn't overheat.
Sounds normal.
No funny coloured smoke.
Not generating mayonnaise.

All this makes me a little more sure I really dont have mechanical damage left from the 'incident' - does that sound fair?

Dunno why I never thought of this before - but the sucking/chuffing/scraping noise does sound a bit bearingy. So I squirted WD40 around the aux belt pulleys and haven't really heard that since. I'll run it a bit without the belt on and if that confirms an issue on the aux belt, check out the water pump and other pulleys (water pump is 5 or so years old and felt fine on assembly - no play).

That still leaves the idle problem which maybe has nothing to do with the noise. As above I can kind of get round it by having the throttle cracked open with the stop screw. Maybe the problem is the IACV?? It seems fine though - the bit that moves in it isn't sticky at all and moves fine.

I paperclipped it whilst running also...

19 - Incorrect RPM signal
21 - TPS voltage high
129 - EGR feedback voltage low
73 - MAF voltage high
74 - MAF voltage low
57 - IACV voltage low

Interestingly repeating the test with the engine not running gave me no 31 which I thought was supposed to be thrown up??

So how do I tell if these codes are current, or just stored from when I've been unplugging sensors? Is there a way to clear codes and see which ones reoccur?

So in my thoughts the potential horrible mechanical damage still remaining has reduced to annoying little problem I can maybe live with. But any ideas on how to solve it appreciated! If an air leak is still a possibility, is it worth renewing all inlet seals/o-rings just to rule them out? Also EGR to plenum gasket. And/or should I get a replacement IACV?

All help so far appreciated! Cheers.

Liam

[Abiton]

Your test drive results sound encouraging; brave to take it to the redline in the circumstances!  8-) Sounds to me like you really have ruled out major mechanical issues within the engine. 

One thing that I don't think I dreamt - but may have - is that on the V6s there's the possibility of plugging the ICV and something else to the wrong loom connectors, as they use the same plug.  Might explain the ICV's misbehaviour, and one or two of the fault codes?

May be worth a visit to, or by a Tech2 to see whether the fault codes are 'present' or stored. A number somewhere between 20 and 30 of clean, no-faults-present starts should clear any that have been fixed, though some seem to clear instantly as soon as the problem is resolved, don't know which sadly.

Good luck with it! 

[dbug]

From your paperclip results I'd swap the crank sensor (19) -  you may well find some of the other codes will also then go (MAF, ICV & EGR).  Then set your idle "adjustment" back to where it should be.  Good luck

[Liam]

Hmm thanks. Interesting about the IACV plug. Cant say I noticed that possibility, but will investigate. Obviously I had all those cables out of their plastic conduit over the passenger head, so could feasably have not put them back in correctly...??

Yeah the 19 does seem to be out there on it's own among all the other voltage high/low codes. Thing is it's only a couple of years since I changed the crank sensor. The symptoms of the old one failing weren't like this either - it would just refuse to start every now and again, then finally, permanently. Still worth considering though.

Also, I've always had a bit of a rattly exhaust. Always thought it was the loose heatshields round the downpipes, but have ripped those off during this work as they were half rust anyway. Still have a rattle - could this indicate CATs falling to bits and could this cause poor idling without throwing up lambda sensor/mixture related codes??

Cheers,

Liam

[cem_devecioglu]

UPDATE:

Well been playing with it today. Still not wanting to idle when the throttle is fully closed and relying on the IACV. Using the throttle stop adjustment screw hidden under the plastic cover where the throttle and cruise cables connect I put a few turns on the screw and it can idle a little high around 750 - 800 ish without cutting out.

I then decided to take it for a drive. Put 15 or so miles on it and gave it a proper test. Seems to run fine and pull smoothly to the redline under load and appears to make full power. A few more points to note from the drive:

Runs at normal temp - doesn't overheat.
Sounds normal.
No funny coloured smoke.
Not generating mayonnaise.

All this makes me a little more sure I really dont have mechanical damage left from the 'incident' - does that sound fair?

yes .. good news.. no need to deal with the other head 


Dunno why I never thought of this before - but the sucking/chuffing/scraping noise does sound a bit bearingy. So I squirted WD40 around the aux belt pulleys and haven't really heard that since. I'll run it a bit without the belt on and if that confirms an issue on the aux belt, check out the water pump and other pulleys (water pump is 5 or so years old and felt fine on assembly - no play).

That still leaves the idle problem which maybe has nothing to do with the noise. As above I can kind of get round it by having the throttle cracked open with the stop screw. Maybe the problem is the IACV?? It seems fine though - the bit that moves in it isn't sticky at all and moves fine.

I paperclipped it whilst running also...

19 - Incorrect RPM signal
21 - TPS voltage high



129 - EGR feedback voltage low
73 - MAF voltage high
74 - MAF voltage low
57 - IACV voltage low

Interestingly repeating the test with the engine not running gave me no 31 which I thought was supposed to be thrown up??

So how do I tell if these codes are current, or just stored from when I've been unplugging sensors? Is there a way to clear codes and see which ones reoccur?

So in my thoughts the potential horrible mechanical damage still remaining has reduced to annoying little problem I can maybe live with. But any ideas on how to solve it appreciated! If an air leak is still a possibility, is it worth renewing all inlet seals/o-rings just to rule them out? Also EGR to plenum gasket. And/or should I get a replacement IACV?

All help so far appreciated! Cheers.

Liam

[cem_devecioglu]

Hmm thanks. Interesting about the IACV plug. Cant say I noticed that possibility, but will investigate. Obviously I had all those cables out of their plastic conduit over the passenger head, so could feasably have not put them back in correctly...??

Yeah the 19 does seem to be out there on it's own among all the other voltage high/low codes. Thing is it's only a couple of years since I changed the crank sensor. The symptoms of the old one failing weren't like this either - it would just refuse to start every now and again, then finally, permanently. Still worth considering though.

Also, I've always had a bit of a rattly exhaust. Always thought it was the loose heatshields round the downpipes, but have ripped those off during this work as they were half rust anyway. Still have a rattle - could this indicate CATs falling to bits

nope.. Cats of miggy is normally robust..unless you hit them somewhere else..
exhaust leaks can effect idle but wont stop it.. also your consumption will be highly effected..

ps : I'm still using original cats




and could this cause poor idling without throwing up lambda sensor/mixture related codes??

Cheers,

Liam

[Liam]

Cheers,

After looking at another thread with a code 19 and crank sensor diagnosis, does anyone else think my code 19 could indicate a dodgy crank sensor? Bearing in mind my particular symptoms, and the fact my crank sensor is only a couple of years old, and when the old one was playing up it didn't give these symptoms. Or could it be a result of unplugging it during the work? Having said that I'm not even sure I unplugged the crank sensor at all (unless it was required when removing the cable conduit over the passenger head to get the wires out of the way). Hmmmmm.

[Kevin Wood]

After looking at another thread with a code 19 and crank sensor diagnosis, does anyone else think my code 19 could indicate a dodgy crank sensor?

Yep. It's normally quite a reliable indicator of a crank sensor problem.

It's the insulation in the wire that fails on the crank sensors, normally due to heat. I'm sure it will have been moved a little during the work, so perhaps it has failed. Crank sensors produce a stronger signal at higher RPMs so could well be that down at idle the signal is not quite good enough for the ECU to synchronise to.

Make sure the crank sensor wiring is routed up the inner wing well away from the exhaust manifold when fitting.

Kevin