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[Radar]

On my diff. pinion nut i can see a few lines of threads. This does not look normal to me and i wondered if there is an easy way to check this (i have looked at the maintenance guides for diff seal change but this is something that would be beyond me, plus if i retightened to the same position it would still have some threads showing :-/ :-/

Can anyone offer some advice?

[Kevin Wood]

Threads between the nut and propshaft flange? If so, it sounds like it's come loose. Entwood's had done the same at the cam belt meet earlier this year IIRC.

The problem is, there's a crush washer inside which sets the mesh of the pinion and crownwheel so you need to tighten it up without further crushing the washer. There's probably a torque value that would achieve this but I have no idea what it would be. :-/

[gstylebaby]

When i did mine a few weeks ago now there was a few showing but i can not rembember how many not sure it matters just as long as you put it back to the smae place when you re-fit it. I got a large deep socket from halford and marked the side of it with a marker and and hole punched the nut only lightly and on the threaded spine just again small little tap and then lined them all up and started to undo counting the number of turns and then wrote it down as to get the correct place when re-fitting for correct tension. I have a wearing noise on my mv6 and i'm not sure if its this or a rear wheel bearing but it seems to have got louder. I'm gonna lid it and see what happens.

[Radar]

The problem is even if i felt i could do the job and counted the number of turns as per the pinion seal change guide it would still show some threads after refitting and i would still not be sure if it was tightened correctly or not?

[Andy H]

The drive spider is a VERY tight fit on the splines on the input shaft. If it has worked loose then expect the input shaft to wobble around like a stick in a bucket. If that has happened I would expect all the differential oil to be spread evenly over the underside of the car.

If you haven't lost oil and if the pinion shaft is still properly supported by the bearings then get a tube of loctite and refit the nut so it is just kissing the input spider.

I can't explain how the nut might work loose without the spider coming loose too, just put it down to 'one of those things' 

(I think the spider is so tight that all the nut is really used for is initial adjustment. Maybe it isn't actually necessary after :-/ )

[Entwood]

Threads between the nut and propshaft flange? If so, it sounds like it's come loose. Entwood's had done the same at the cam belt meet earlier this year IIRC.

The problem is, there's a crush washer inside which sets the mesh of the pinion and crownwheel so you need to tighten it up without further crushing the washer. There's probably a torque value that would achieve this but I have no idea what it would be. :-/

I don't remember the nut being loose, but the seal was cetainly fubared .. however I have no idea on the methodology of replacemen ... whilst I was at the front end changing the diff oil Mr 2Woody leapt into action and the seal was replaced before I even realised he had started !!!

I had 2 folks to thank then ... Kevin who just happened to have a seal in his toolbox .. and 2Woody for doing a very fast and very good job on changing it ... most grateful I was too 

[Radar]

.Thanks to all for the replies

Kevin: how was Entwoods fixed?
If you look at the maintenance guide for diif pinion oil seal change the seal as shown in picture 1 sits tight against the diff. but mine sits more like the 7th picture (which says almost off). I can see a couple of threads also on the metal bit.


i noticed about a month ago that oil was dripping slightly onto the exhaust. I cleaned up the area but could not see where it originated from. The 2 cogs either side of the diff are not leaking. Since cleaning it has not leaked as much and i will try to check again in the morning as i have just done a 250 mile trip today. Maybe i could get a second opinion when a meet comes up?

[Radar]

Threads between the nut and propshaft flange? If so, it sounds like it's come loose. Entwood's had done the same at the cam belt meet earlier this year IIRC.

The problem is, there's a crush washer inside which sets the mesh of the pinion and crownwheel so you need to tighten it up without further crushing the washer. There's probably a torque value that would achieve this but I have no idea what it would be. :-/

I don't remember the nut being loose, but the seal was cetainly fubared .. however I have no idea on the methodology of replacemen ... whilst I was at the front end changing the diff oil Mr 2Woody leapt into action and the seal was replaced before I even realised he had started !!!

I had 2 folks to thank then ... Kevin who just happened to have a seal in his toolbox .. and 2Woody for doing a very fast and very good job on changing it ... most grateful I was too 

Thanks Entwood.  True OOF sprirt in action

[Kevin Wood]

Kevin: how was Entwoods fixed?

2woody's calibrated torque-sensing elbow IIRC.

Mine was the same. It shows signs of having leaked in the past, but is dry now (and yes, it does have some oil in ).

I have another seal in my toolbox, so if it gets bad again...

[Radar]

Kevin: how was Entwoods fixed?

2woody's calibrated torque-sensing elbow IIRC.

Mine was the same. It shows signs of having leaked in the past, but is dry now (and yes, it does have some oil in ).

I have another seal in my toolbox, so if it gets bad again...

Funny you say that since i had a windscreen washer bottle that managed to fix itself!!

[2woody]

provided the pinion nose bearing isn't fubar, you need to make sure that the nut is re-tightened to the same POSITION as the old one, + a small amount, which in practice is as small as you can manage