About a year ago I put in new bearing and most of the play was gone but some play did remain. Thought I'd be ok but now it started to bother me so I decided to re-do it. And did it, without any success. I have tried everything, for five nights I've been in the garage doing all I can imagine, still play. It seems the inner races are "too long" and they touch each other before the play would be cleared. I now have another bearing, SKF this time (former was pattern one) and I'm trying if it would be produced to correct dimensions. Hoping for the best...
The bearing tightens as the inner races are tightened towards each other and the hub itself has enough clearance and when fully tightened I still have a few tenths (approx.) play so I'm not happy. The plan is, in case the newest bearing is also impossible to get playless, to grind about half a millimeter from both inner races to give it room to move and tighten properly. This is similar to previous posts/difficulties people have had with FRONT wheel bearings (Entwood?)
If anyone has any othe ideas I'm glad to hear.
For reference, I have now taken the whole suspension arm off for the possibility to use hammers and/or press in case needed. However, when installing, no press is needed. Just freezing and heating the parts does do the trick. Removing one can be a real PITA as some may have rusted almost solid to the arm and therefore it might be wise to start with removing the arm and use a press. And, one observation of poor design: outer bolt attaching the suspension arm to the "system" where the big doughnut bush is, can not be comletely removed because it hits the sill

Why on earth...

Well, I managed to wiggle the arm off despite that, let's see how can I put it back in
