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[iansoutham]

Hi guys, I have read through the TC threads that the Search facility throws up, but they all appear to be for FL or V6 motors.

Mine is a 1997/8 Mini Facelift (produced 18th Sept 1997) X20XEV estate CDX. I know everybody says that TC is not needed on the 4-pot cars, but some of the roads I drive are a little bit slippery (out in the country a bit) and all on national speed limit roads and the back has skipped a little a few times, plus a couple of times on roundabouts with the salt and rubbish on them. Slowing down on some of these roads is just as dangerous as too many lunatics race down them even faster and almost tailgate you. I have the spare slot next to the drivers heated seat button and it looks like the wiring may be there, so what would be required to swap it all over to the TC variety? Replacement ECU? Switch? Wiring? Plus, I like to have ALL options on my cars and a spare blank to me is just something waiting to be filled.

[Kevin Wood]

Traction control was never available on the 4 pots, unfortunately, so the code in the ABS and engine ECUs simply doesn't exist. Not really something you can retro-fit, I'm afraid.

[05omegav6]

Buy a switch, fit it and see what happens, but be surprised if it works tbh scratch that then

Could try different tyres if you're breaking traction with a four pot

[iansoutham]

Fair enough, it was worth a thought.

As for the tyres, they are perfectly fine new Dunlop SP Sport 01 tyres in 225/55R16 size. I get the same issues if I use my Sierra running Bridgestone Potenza S-02 PP tyres (except that the 4x4 on the Sierra just causes a slight almost un-noticeable wiggle) or the Golf on Toyo T1-R tyres. Unfortunately, the roads are pitted and cratered/patched and bits of country lane mud, etc.... in various places. Add to that the recent salt, etc... and the roads there get a little slippery, especially when wet.

[Lazydocker]

What state are the suspension components in and has it had a proper geometry setup by WIM (or a WIM affiliated outlet)?

I've experienced strange handling when the geometry is out

[iansoutham]

What state are the suspension components in and has it had a proper geometry setup by WIM (or a WIM affiliated outlet)?

I've experienced strange handling when the geometry is out

The suspension components are all in good working order, it even had an MOT this time last week and passed with flying colours, and my MOT guy is VERY strict when I get a new car.

The geometry has not been done to WIM specs, but that would not explain most other cars doing the same thing (wet muddy roads tend to cause these problems, regardless of anything else).

On that same note though, if anyone has the correct WIM-specs for a MFL X20XEV estate CDX, I will gladly take a PM of them 

[TheBoy]

I think the (non-Elite) estates are sprung a bit hard for when carrying no load - similar, but not as extreme, to driving an empty RWD transit.

Whilst a grippier tyre may help - though probably not on muddy roads mentioned - I think you need to rely on your own skill, and not a set of electronics. I do not think it would be possible to retrofit TC. The ABS hydraulic unit lacks the capability, the ABS ECU lacks the capability, the engine ECU lacks the capability, and I have no idea if the TCM 2.0l config has the capability.

[Brikhead]

...similar, but not as extreme, to driving an empty RWD transit.

Whilst a grippier tyre may help - though probably not on muddy roads mentioned - I think you need to rely on your own skill, and not a set of electronics. I do not think it would be possible to retrofit TC. The ABS hydraulic unit lacks the capability, the ABS ECU lacks the capability, the engine ECU lacks the capability, and I have no idea if the TCM 2.0l config has the capability.

Driving Transit vans (and my Mom's old Mk.2 Escort) taught me to drive, I've given up jobs in the past because of TC/ESP that can't be switched off!

As to retro fitting T.C. to a 2.0 it would be a little easier to go down the route of spark retardation rather than hydraulic manipulation...

[05omegav6]

What state are the suspension components in and has it had a proper geometry setup by WIM (or a WIM affiliated outlet)?

I've experienced strange handling when the geometry is out

What is the history of the car?
Has it had any suspension work?
Have you only just bought it?
Did it need new tyres?

If the answer to either of the last two questions is 'Yes', then I would strongly suggest the following:

Rear subframe bushes, front wishbones (decent ones) followed by a proper set up, before driving too much further. Otherwise you'll be needing more new tyres.

Knackered parts and poor geometry can destroy brand new tyres in less than 1000miles on these, and not all the bushes are picked up by even the most stringent of testers

[iansoutham]

What is the history of the car?

Dealer demo for 6 months, old guy owned since then until 2010, purchased by me for friends of the family who only did 4k miles per year at most and was serviced by me during this period, then purchased by me 4 weeks ago with 69k on the clock. Now sits on 71k.

Has it had any suspension work?

No suspension work done, although sounds like a drop link rattling on the rear.

Have you only just bought it?

See 1st answer

Did it need new tyres?

Yes, all 4. 2 on the rear were a little over pressure and wearing in the middle, the fronts had worn down through natural causes. Fitted 4 new Dunlop SP Sport 01 225/55R16 tyres within 24 hours of buying it. Previous tyres were Dunlop SP 9000 all round.

[05omegav6]

By design, the rear droplinks don't rattle. Possibly the exhaust knocking or the rear subframe bushes starting to break up Changing these won't affect the geometry

Depending on how the car has been used, the front wishbone bushes might be starting to fail which won't help

If traction has only been an issue since the new tyres were fitted, then they could be the cause. The Omega does seem to be a bit sensitive to different tyres and geometry set ups