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[Paulus62]

Good morning All,

Took cam covers off to prepare for new cam cover seals and I'd like your views in relation to the following photos (assuming I get them to load this time!)

 
inside 1-3-5 cam case


1-3-5 cambelt end


1-3-5 Bulkhead end


Underside of 1-3-5 cam cover

Question 1. Should the non friction cleaned areas be such a dark brown? it's almost as dark as the coating inside the air intakes immediately below the plenum leading to injectors.

Question 2. If the answer to Q1 is no, then can I take the camshafts out and clean them and while doing that clean the hydraulic lifters?

Question 3. If yes to Q2 do I do the removal and cleaning once I've locked the cams at TDC?

Question 4. If this course of action is wrong, what should I do? Having looked at the other pictures in the guides the insides look a lot brighter than mine and prior to causing the water leak the engine sounded as if the tappets needed doing (I know now that they are not the same as others)

What began as a flush though of the coolant system and refill with correct antifreeze has become a major (for me at least) undertaking 

I apologize if this is covered elsewhere, I have looked at all the guides and this doesn't appear to be covered as such

Cheers - Paul   

Ok, the photos are not showing in preview & I've tried all the ways that dropbox shows, it wont let me share with the forum as it says it doesn't accept the www. address. And I don't get the list as shown in the forum's guide to using dropbox on my computer    Agghhh!!!

[Murph]

You can remove the cams for cleaning but TBH the lobes look to be clean and that's the bit that's important. If you decide to remove them the you'll need to get the timing marks aligned then the cam belt has to come off.  Unless you have recently had the cam belt changed then I would advise fitting a new one just to be sure. Of course that would mean a new tensioner too, along with new camshaft end seals... Once you start down that road it gets expensive pretty fast!

It looks to me like the engine has had it's oil changed less often that it needs, which has stained the cams and probably everywhere else too.  In your position I would look carefully at the cam belt history and if it's even close to being due for a change then do it now, along with an oil and filter change.
Then change the oil at least every 6 months with decent oil. The stuff from the dealers is cheap enough and works well. Before too long you'll have a nice shiny clean engine again.

[YZ250]

Sorry, but I've only done the links for quickness as I'm on the phone. 

Good morning All,

Took cam covers off to prepare for new cam cover seals and I'd like your views in relation to the following photos (assuming I get them to load this time!)

http://www.dropbox.com/s/8e03ycqksvespu5/1-3-5%20cam%20shaft%20bay.jpg
inside 1-3-5 cam case

http://www.dropbox.com/s/4qkxyjsop6omb1n/1-3-5%20cam%20shafts%20cambelt%20end.jpg
1-3-5 cambelt end

http://www.dropbox.com/s/jxw4s1mpjr34quf/1-3-5%20cam%20shafts%20bulkhead%20end.jpg
1-3-5 Bulkhead end

http://www.dropbox.com/s/5tcty96zbc4jgi0/1-3-5%20cam%20cover%20inside.jpg
Underside of 1-3-5 cam cover

Question 1. Should the non friction cleaned areas be such a dark brown? it's almost as dark as the coating inside the air intakes immediately below the plenum leading to injectors.

Question 2. If the answer to Q1 is no, then can I take the camshafts out and clean them and while doing that clean the hydraulic lifters?

Question 3. If yes to Q2 do I do the removal and cleaning once I've locked the cams at TDC?

Question 4. If this course of action is wrong, what should I do? Having looked at the other pictures in the guides the insides look a lot brighter than mine and prior to causing the water leak the engine sounded as if the tappets needed doing (I know now that they are not the same as others)

What began as a flush though of the coolant system and refill with correct antifreeze has become a major (for me at least) undertaking 

I apologize if this is covered elsewhere, I have looked at all the guides and this doesn't appear to be covered as such

Cheers - Paul   

Ok, the photos are not showing in preview & I've tried all the ways that dropbox shows, it wont let me share with the forum as it says it doesn't accept the www. address. And I don't get the list as shown in the forum's guide to using dropbox on my computer    Agghhh!!!

[Paulus62]

Thanks Murph 

I am doing the cambelt. Cambelt kit, cam cover gaskets, O rings, sealant, oil filters 2 off [been told to change oil run for a bit then change again, with luck it will have washed all the crud that I've dislodged when cleaning the breather box holes] are ordered from andyc   

I was concerned that the hydraulic followers may be blocked as a result of the poor oil condition. As I am doing the cambelt I thought it might be worth the extra effort in doing them & cleaning as required.

Sorry, but I've only done the links for quickness as I'm on the phone.   

Thank you YZ250  What am I doing wrong to get photos in post??? 

[Murph]

I can't see that you're doing anything wrong at all TBH.
I tried all the usual tricks too but drop box didn't want to play.

The service sounds like a good plan.   

[Kevin Wood]

I wouldn't bother removing the cams. Yes, the staining is a sign of either a rather long service interval in the past or perhaps a "snake-oil" additive, but it will do no harm and the bits of the cams that matter look in good order. Just make sure the breathers are clear, give it a couple of quick oil changes and then look after it and it'll be fine.

If the tappets quieten quickly after starting I wouldn't worry about them. A couple of oil changes will keep them that way and, if they do rattle, a dose of Wynns might well sort it out.

[Paulus62]

Thanks Kevin, after looking at what cleaning the hydraulic lifters entailed I decided that it was not a viable option at the point in time, I'm close to my limit now    

[Paulus62]

Out of a matter of ignorance, how clean does the edge around the cam head/cover joint be?

Do I have to finish it with say 1000 grit wet and dry to give a mirror like finish?

There are a few scratches where its been cleaned before and one of them is where one of the oil leaks were, whether this contributed to the failure of the seal I couldn't say as both heads were leaking in more than one spot.

It seems to me that the surface should be a smooth as possible but there is a risk of rounding off edges   

Advice is much appreciated     

[albitz]

No need for a mirror finish imo.The gaskets are quite thick so should be able to bed themselves into minor Imperfections.As long as there are no deep gouges or sharp protrusions.
Even tightening to only 8nm is critical.

[dbug]

Good morning All,

Took cam covers off to prepare for new cam cover seals and I'd like your views in relation to the following photos (assuming I get them to load this time!)

 
inside 1-3-5 cam case


1-3-5 cambelt end


1-3-5 Bulkhead end


Underside of 1-3-5 cam cover

Question 1. Should the non friction cleaned areas be such a dark brown? it's almost as dark as the coating inside the air intakes immediately below the plenum leading to injectors.

Question 2. If the answer to Q1 is no, then can I take the camshafts out and clean them and while doing that clean the hydraulic lifters?

Question 3. If yes to Q2 do I do the removal and cleaning once I've locked the cams at TDC?

Question 4. If this course of action is wrong, what should I do? Having looked at the other pictures in the guides the insides look a lot brighter than mine and prior to causing the water leak the engine sounded as if the tappets needed doing (I know now that they are not the same as others)

What began as a flush though of the coolant system and refill with correct antifreeze has become a major (for me at least) undertaking 

I apologize if this is covered elsewhere, I have looked at all the guides and this doesn't appear to be covered as such

Cheers - Paul   

Ok, the photos are not showing in preview & I've tried all the ways that dropbox shows, it wont let me share with the forum as it says it doesn't accept the www. address. And I don't get the list as shown in the forum's guide to using dropbox on my computer    Agghhh!!!

OK?

[Paulus62]

Great   thanks dbug 

No need for a mirror finish imo.The gaskets are quite thick so should be able to bed themselves into minor Imperfections.As long as there are no deep gouges or sharp protrusions.
Even tightening to only 8nm is critical.

Understood Albitz 

I think they had been a bit tighter than that and the gasket & O rings were quite brittle too