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Author Topic: Rear track rod removal  (Read 2490 times)

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Entwood

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Re: Rear track rod removal
« Reply #15 on: 18 December 2013, 21:53:57 »
When Mark/TB released my corroded TRE's - admittedly front ones not rear - they did it at Newent with nothing more than a camping gas stove, two pairs of molegrips and half a can of plusgas!!

Full track rod off the car .. lay the offending joint on the stove until glowing, then a strong twist with the molegrips.. tiny movement .. so pour in plusgas and repeat ... lots of times !!

credit where it is due .. I wouldn't have had the patience !!
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Webby the Bear

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Re: Rear track rod removal
« Reply #16 on: 18 December 2013, 21:59:16 »
Quote from: Entwood on 18 December 2013, 21:53:57
When Mark/TB released my corroded TRE's - admittedly front ones not rear - they did it at Newent with nothing more than a camping gas stove, two pairs of molegrips and half a can of plusgas!!

Full track rod off the car .. lay the offending joint on the stove until glowing, then a strong twist with the molegrips.. tiny movement .. so pour in plusgas and repeat ... lots of times !!

credit where it is due .. I wouldn't have had the patience !!

Whilst that's VERY admirable and resourceful..... I fear if I did this it would end up in someone (more than likely me) dying.  ::) ;D
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omega3000

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Re: Rear track rod removal
« Reply #17 on: 19 December 2013, 13:47:10 »
Get it off an put in a vice , plenty of release spray on it and snap a few spanners ... it comes apart eventually with busted knuckles  :( Best with some heat though like said  :D
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Marks DTM Calib

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Re: Rear track rod removal
« Reply #18 on: 19 December 2013, 13:49:13 »
Told you, buy better tools  ;D :y

And heat ALWAYS wins.
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05omegav6

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Re: Rear track rod removal
« Reply #19 on: 19 December 2013, 13:51:33 »
Heat it up enough and you can mould it to the correct length ;D
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omega3000

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Re: Rear track rod removal
« Reply #20 on: 19 December 2013, 13:54:40 »
Quote from: Fuse18 on 19 December 2013, 13:49:13
Told you, buy better tools  ;D :y

And heat ALWAYS wins.

I busted a pair of stilsons on em  ::) Persistence paid off in the end but they dont arf creak unwinding  ;D
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Entwood

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Re: Rear track rod removal
« Reply #21 on: 19 December 2013, 14:43:16 »
Quote from: Fuse18 on 19 December 2013, 13:49:13
Told you, buy better tools  ;D :y

And heat ALWAYS wins.

oohh ... I remember hearing that phrase many times at Newent !!   :)
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henryd

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Re: Rear track rod removal
« Reply #22 on: 19 December 2013, 20:14:33 »
Quote from: ex taxi al on 19 December 2013, 13:51:33
Heat it up enough and you can mould it to the correct length ;D

Or fold it for easy storage :-X ;D
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terry paget

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Re: Rear track rod removal
« Reply #23 on: 20 December 2013, 07:09:22 »
I do wonder if they need adjusting unless the the rear suspension has been repaired - do'nuts replaced - or the car suffered major rear trauma. So all WIM need do is confirm that the rear is still up within spec.

I have taken off a few from cars I have scrapped, and they take some freeing - lots of heat, then hammering, then putting in a vice and heaving on a long Stillson. Then I find that the ball joint is loose and it needs replacing anyway.

Has anyone witnessed what WIM does?
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chrisgixer

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Re: Rear track rod removal
« Reply #24 on: 20 December 2013, 07:57:40 »
Quote from: terry paget on 20 December 2013, 07:09:22
I do wonder if they need adjusting unless the the rear suspension has been repaired - do'nuts replaced - or the car suffered major rear trauma. So all WIM need do is confirm that the rear is still up within spec.

I have taken off a few from cars I have scrapped, and they take some freeing - lots of heat, then hammering, then putting in a vice and heaving on a long Stillson. Then I find that the ball joint is loose and it needs replacing anyway.

Has anyone witnessed what WIM does?


Oxy torch and heat them up on the car, adjust to settings insuring toe camber and thrust centre are correct. It's the only adjustment on the rears so its almost always a compromise, but if the thrust centre is not straight it will steer the rear of the car out of line and the steering wheel will never be level as a result. It's the base setting everything else works from so its important to get it right.

Any alignment shop should have heat available to achieve the correct setting, and seized track rods are part of the game. Don't let them off with the excuse that its seized. There may be a charge, but that's up them to explain so the customer can decide. Which doesn't always happen in some places. But then some companies remove them from the car and re grease.
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05omegav6

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Re: Rear track rod removal
« Reply #25 on: 20 December 2013, 11:22:14 »
Quote from: terry paget on 20 December 2013, 07:09:22
I do wonder if they need adjusting unless the the rear suspension has been repaired - do'nuts replaced - or the car suffered major rear trauma. So all WIM need do is confirm that the rear is still up within spec.

I have taken off a few from cars I have scrapped, and they take some freeing - lots of heat, then hammering, then putting in a vice and heaving on a long Stillson. Then I find that the ball joint is loose and it needs replacing anyway.

Has anyone witnessed what WIM does?
Not quite... as Chris has said the thrust angle serves as the datum for the rest of the geometry, so is set near as damnit spot on :y

My car is a bit bruised under the surface, but it has always driven true following a visit to WIM :y
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