Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length

[unlucky alf]

I know i have posted this before over the years but thought i would try again , When my old tractor has been on a long run then try to restart it the following happens,,,,,,I turn the key & it starts OK, Push the gas pedal & nothing happens, Leave it ticking over for 10-15 seconds & the revs move up a little followed by a little jolt then everything is fine again, The Boy did a test on it at high Wycombe & it came up as ' Fuel Temperature Voltage High' & suggested it was the sensor mounted by the Diesel filter, I have now changed that but the problem is still there, I also did a paperclip test today & that comes up with the same  ' 17,,,,Fuel Temperature Voltage High' , This problem has got worse since I removed the viscous fan which is causing the engine to run a tad hotter but even so the engine temp still only reaches 90c, So where is my next port of call to investigate?, Could it be anything to do with the ECU chip settings?.

[unlucky alf]

After looking around other forums for the cause of this ' Fuel Temperature Voltage High' issue they claim the voltage is controlled by a sensor on the water system side, If this is the case then can anyone tell me what sensor this would be?,Would it be the temp gauge sender as it has 2 wires going to it instead of the normal one wire? , I also noticed yesterday that after leaving the car parked for an hour after a long run I had no glow plug light on the dash when I turned the key, It still started ok but the problem was there but this time only for a few seconds so it is almost certainly a temperature related issue, So come on chaps,Just some ideas/suggestions could help , (& no i am not scrapping it)

[deviator]

It could be the CTS (Coolant Temp Sensor). They are cheap enough to buy from the dealers, so for the cost - I'd give it a go. About 15 quid for the v6 one. Don't bother with pat parts, it may make things worse.

[unlucky alf]

Cheers deviator, I will certainly try that if only i could find where the ruddy thing is situated , Have had a look this morning & cant see the bleedin' thing anywhere.

[deviator]

Which engine is it?

Dave

[unlucky alf]

A 2.5TD mate.

[deviator]

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=DF51-EUR-07-1999-E39-BMW-525td&diagId=11_1548#13621703993

Reports #6 and #10 as a temp sensor

HTH

[unlucky alf]

Cheers for that, I noticed #10 is also mentioned as a double switch whatever that is, I'm also hoping the BMW uses the same sensors as VX as I bet there is no part number on mine.

[deviator]

I wouldn't use those part numbers, I included that link for location purposes only. I'd buy the part from VX. It's probably cheaper and you know it's the right part. I don't know whose ECU they used.

I wonder if the 'dual' side of it is dash and ECU?

[unlucky alf]

UPDATE, After a right struggle I finally managed to change the sensor mounted in the head ( Green socket 2 wire one), My '17' fault is still there but now i am getting another fault code '15'  Coolant Temperature Voltage High, So now i have 2 fault codes '15' & the original '17' one , I cant refit the old sensor as I managed to break the top off it getting the thing out, So do I assume that the new sensor is duff?, Admittedly I didn't get a genuine VX one as the clowns at my local stealer didn't know what i was talking about (no surprise there then) so had to resort to a fleabay one, I will try & unplug the ECU for a while just to see if that wakes something up, Failing that where is my next thing to prod,Kick & swear at?. .

[Andy H]

A common way of driving temperature sensors is for the ECU to send a current out to the sensor - the other side of the sensor is then grounded (either through the engine or via a separate ground wire). If the sensor fails, or the ground wire breaks, then ECU will report "high voltage".

If you have two sensors that both start reporting high voltage at the same time then suspect the wiring. Another thing to check for is corroded or loose electrical connectors. Intermittent faults are more likely to be wiring than sensor related but sensors can become intermittent.

[unlucky alf]

Cheers Andy, I will get the test meter out & check for a good ground on the sensor socket, I still find it odd that the fault code '15' has only popped up since changing the water temp sensor, Unless of course one contact has pushed back into the plug when putting it on, It is a bugger to get at though .