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[Olympia5776]

Recommissioning after a two year lay up in a dehumidified Airchamber .
Noticed last October when i ran the engine up that the EML light was on . I checked via the paper clip test and got fault codes 0340 and 0100 , Cam sensor and MAF . Ordered and got around to fitting both today . Problem still persists .
Find it unlikely that two new components are faulty so have looked at the wiring diagram and see that the feed return to ECU is common to EGR valve ,MAF and cam sensor. I think i have the EGR disconnected and blanked off ( I've had the car 14 years and recall the bloody thing rattling some time ago ) so no fault code would show up on that component so I ask is there a common or known point on the wiring that may cause the problem I have ?
I intend to look at it closely tomorrow but thought I'd ask prior to starting .
Thanks

[Olympia5776]

Just to add that I've just tried the reset switching the ignition on and off 25 to 30 times but light is still on.
There is one symptom which has changed though and that is that in the past when i had trouble with cam or crank sensors the eml would go off when the ignition was switched on and the engine started and then after a second or two the eml light would come on after the engine started running .
Now the eml does not go off , ie it is constantly on during  ignition on /start and run . May mean something.

[05omegav6]

Engine/age/gearbox...

[zirk]

Fault Codes are thrown up by Sensors, its meant as a guide as to what the issue could be rather than the sensors may or may not have become faulty.

If the car has been laid up for a couple of years, my advise would be to get the thing running up to temp and give a good old fashion Italian Tune Up before changing parts willy nilly.

As for expecting to clear codes with Ing. on/off's, its not going to work unless the main issues of the problem, if any, have been addressed.   

[Olympia5776]

2.0 Lt FL est. manual .

The car is usually started up every two months or so and run up to temp. indeed up to the fans kick in .
After reading my history of the car I see I fitted new cam sensor 5/13 but had 0340 and 0130 stored in the ecu . I used a friends code reader to clear them and all was well.
As I said the sequence seems to differ this time in that the eml stays on continually instead of going off during ignition and then coming on when the engine starts and the ecu sees a fault .
I've just resoldered the cable joint for the cam sensor mod but the codes are still there .
The engine runs fine with no hesitation when throttle pressed and spins up to 5K with no problem.
I'll get the code reader and do a manual reset and see if that resolves the problem.
Other than the 25 to 30 turns of the key is there an alternative reset for the faults ?

[Olympia5776]

Well , got the OBD2 diagnostic tester onto the car today.
Yesterday I had disconnected the battery and shorted out the two leads which i was assured would clear the fault codes within , it did .
When I checked for fault codes none were listed, good , but EML was still on when ignition switched on . Checked the owners manual and that's what it's supposed to do  .
It's been a couple of years since i drove it so I'll use that as a poor excuse ......
Started engine and eml went off and then came back on after a nanosecond and faults shown were MAF and cam sensor . I cleared them and replaced the MAF with the old one after cleaning it with carb cleaner and lo and behold that fault did not return .
So the new LMF MAF is faulty 
Checked again and the cam sensor still shows a fault . I removed the front cover and checked the plug connector and position of the sensor but it still showed up as a fault .
Cleared it a couple of times but each time the engine was started it returned.
So the new Delphi cam sensor fitted one month before the car was laid up is faulty 
New cam sensor will be here tomorrow and fitted which hopefully will solve the issue .
Thanks for all your help.

[Marks DTM Calib]

Don't use LMF for sensors, they are only any good for bolt on bob bits 

[Olympia5776]

Don't use LMF for sensors, they are only any good for bolt on bob bits 

Since I came here 12 years ago I've always bought any motoring items for all our vehicles from UK . I recently completed a two and a half year resto on a car and the number of parts I had to bin amounted to quite a sum. The high cost of return of a faulty item outways the lower initial cost of purchase .
So much so I've had to start buying locally and although the cost is greater I have a great supplier who will deliver brand names same day to my door for free and accept any returns for whatever reason.
The market is saturated with cheap Chinese faeces.......

[terry paget]

Recommissioning after a two year lay up in a dehumidified Airchamber .
Noticed last October when i ran the engine up that the EML light was on . I checked via the paper clip test and got fault codes 0340 and 0100 , Cam sensor and MAF . Ordered and got around to fitting both today . Problem still persists .
Find it unlikely that two new components are faulty so have looked at the wiring diagram and see that the feed return to ECU is common to EGR valve ,MAF and cam sensor. I think i have the EGR disconnected and blanked off ( I've had the car 14 years and recall the bloody thing rattling some time ago ) so no fault code would show up on that component so I ask is there a common or known point on the wiring that may cause the problem I have ?
I intend to look at it closely tomorrow but thought I'd ask prior to starting .
Thanks

Is your dehumidified chamber really a tarpaulin?

[Olympia5776]

Recommissioning after a two year lay up in a dehumidified Airchamber .
Noticed last October when i ran the engine up that the EML light was on . I checked via the paper clip test and got fault codes 0340 and 0100 , Cam sensor and MAF . Ordered and got around to fitting both today . Problem still persists .
Find it unlikely that two new components are faulty so have looked at the wiring diagram and see that the feed return to ECU is common to EGR valve ,MAF and cam sensor. I think i have the EGR disconnected and blanked off ( I've had the car 14 years and recall the bloody thing rattling some time ago ) so no fault code would show up on that component so I ask is there a common or known point on the wiring that may cause the problem I have ?
I intend to look at it closely tomorrow but thought I'd ask prior to starting .
Thanks

Is your dehumidified chamber really a tarpaulin?

No , It was in here until recently . I've had this Airchamber for nearly 18 years now and my last classic was kept in it until I sold it in 2012 and never deteriorated one bit . Best car money I ever spent 


Twin fan system through filters and I run a small de humidifier inside.

Back on subject .
I got a new cam sensor today and found that the bloody thing was the older square edge plug type rather than the later oval type that was fitted. Fortunately I had the old plug attached to the faulty OE Siemans  sensor from 11 years ago.....
So rather than pay the quoted €120 from my local GM Opel main dealer I spliced some new wire into the plug and made up a new short screened loom . I have now replaced the oval plug and sender with the oe square type and the EML light is now out when engine started.
I checked back and that Delphi cam sensor was fitted 3 months before I laid the car up and it has probably done less than 200 miles .
Anyway brakes will be checked over next , then fresh engine and diff oil . Gbox oil was changed 600 miles ago. Cam belt/tensioners/water pump  was done 8-13 and has done 118 miles since .
I'm not sure I'd ever sell this car .. I have a € 70.000 Lexus GS450 Hybrid sport  sitting outside my window right now that I'm looking after . I've driven it nigh on 100 miles  and it is less comfortable than the Omega and although it has almost rocket power the complexity of it completely chills me . It's also an ugly SOB too.