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[TheBoy]

Err, don't take any notice of what the ECU says about the HT side.  It has no way of knowing.  At best, all it could do would be measure current on the LT side, but in these ECUs, it doesn't even do that.

Go back to basics.

[Doctor Gollum]

O p c...m strikes again.

[kaisergaragerpt]

Err, don't take any notice of what the ECU says about the HT side.  It has no way of knowing.  At best, all it could do would be measure current on the LT side, but in these ECUs, it doesn't even do that.

Go back to basics.

You are absolutely spot on, as soon as the motor started, ecu now says 6 cylinder! Although 5+2 still displays the same

[Doctor Gollum]

Is it actually misfiring?

[kaisergaragerpt]

Is it actually misfiring?

Worst!
Hard start, knock, loss of power, burned smell.

And I  reassembled the engine. I'm cooked

[Doctor Gollum]

Sounds like you're starting again

[kaisergaragerpt]

I have a leak in the exhaust manifold and I read somewhere it can produce knock. Does this makes sense?

[JamesV6CDX]

I agree with TB, go right back to basics.

1) Is the cambelt / valve timing correct? Has the belt slipped? Lost tension? Foreign object? Needs to be visually checked. (You don't need the tool for this, it will idle and run (fairly) happily on all 6, as long as the marks line up. The tool is to just ensure it's perfect.

2) Compression - do you have suitable compression on all of your cylinders?

3) HT leads - are they in good order and more importantly - are they connected to the DIS pack in the correct firing order?

4) Do you have a spark, at each lead? (You can get cheap tools that tell you if it's sparking) if you don't want to do it the old fashioned way by grounding a spare spark plug on the engine.

5) Do you have sufficient fuel pressure at the rail? You can get a cheap tool to measure this - it just connects via a Schrader (tyre) valve, on the rail. It should be >3 bar / 45PSI.

No5 has been particularly poignant lately - I have seen three omegas in as many months (including my own), with a split in the fuel line INSIDE the tank, between the pump and the top plate, where the fuel line exits the tank. This causes a massive drop in pressure (the fuel is being spewed back into the tank, and not to the rail) and causes horrible running issues.

Unfortunately as TB said the 2.5 ECU isn't that smart, and at best the codes can only be used as a guide - so you have to go back to basics here.

Please use the above as a checklist, and come back to us