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Author Topic: Knock sensor issues  (Read 825 times)

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r.welfare

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Knock sensor issues
« on: 17 February 2007, 15:20:33 »

Hi all - another one suffering the dreaded EML!

Car is a Jan 95 Elite 3.0.  Symptoms are EML constantly lit, uneven idle (which slightly shakes the car), lack of power - it also pulls really lumpily.

Have done the paperclip test and it's come up with code 16 - Knock Sensor 1.

Which may be related to this:



You may recall in my 'cambelt tale of woe' that I snapped this wire (going into the black connector on the right hand side) on stripdown.  I've soldered it, but I assume that this hasn't worked, given the above.  As you can see from the picture the co-ax screening has been uncovered.

So, questions are:

1)  I assume this is the knock sensor?  (It's mounted on the lefthand side of the inlet manifold looking at the engine from the front, about level with the header tank).

2)  What do you have to do to get it out?  I seem to recall from the cambelt stripdown that the cable runs within the belt cover plastic - do I have to take the aux belt off and remove the timing belt cover again?

Funnily, the Haynes manual doesn't seem to cover this as far as I can tell... ::)
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Marks DTM Calib

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Re: Knock sensor issues
« Reply #1 on: 17 February 2007, 16:46:16 »

Why not re-make the connections better, its clearly the problem.

Its important atht all connectiond are made including the crenn to 0V.

To change, you idealy need to remove the alternator to ge better access which is an aux belt off job...
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r.welfare

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Re: Knock sensor issues
« Reply #2 on: 17 February 2007, 17:44:10 »

Thanks Mark.

Yep, found the right page in the Haynes manual and it does say take off aux belt and swing alternator away from the block.

Not sure I can make the connection any better - the connector has been butchered and there's only a couple of millimeters of wire coming out of it, with the actual knock sensor wire stripped down to the core.  Both wires are down to bare strands.  I've re-soldered it as best I can - not pretty, but it seems to be connected! (Not sure how to test with a multimeter to be honest).

Probably best to get a new knock sensor though?  Can it be changed without removing anything?
« Last Edit: 17 February 2007, 17:54:02 by r.welfare »
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