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[spanner16]

Removing crankshaft pulley, I have a 2.2 diesel on an 02 plate, the crankshaft pulley has self destructed, I have been told by VX that they are on back order and expected in mid to late Feb!! does anyone know a source? and how do i remove/replace it, thanks for any help

[spanner16]

Replying to my own post, just sourced one from Vauxhall World parts, (nice blokes) still need to fit it though, is the bolt a left handed thread? do I need to lock the pulley somehow? if so how? (bearing in mind the rubber mount has sheared) does the bolt need torqueing up afterwards?
cheers

[JamesV6CDX]

If it's anything like the Petrol models, there should be 4 bolts holding the outer pulley to the inner, cast one?

[spanner16]

Hi, no it looks like one big bolt in the centre

[fergy]

Hi
 Did this job on my 2001 2.2 TD a few months ago.  Not something to be undertaken lightly!    This followed me putting up with it  "sqawking" every time it was started for about 4 months. Cost for OEM part £113 inc. the dreaded.
 
Remove / release everything except the air con radiator in front of the block. Now, I thought that two burly guys and an 8 foot bar  with  one of Britools  finest would move it... oh no not a bit. Turns out it is approx 4 inches long and tightened to 150 N meters, if I remember rightly.

Ten minutes with an air wrench on a commercial compressor no chance.

Experienced mechanic suggested using the ground to stop the bar rotating and crank the engine using the starter- an old garage trick, didn't work on this baby!

Eventually used a "Big Daddy" air wrench .. sort of thing that you would take a 45 tonner apart with, and it only just fits! This still took several  minutes of continuous effort. Without a big  air tank, it would not have happened at all.

Regarding locking the motor up, I just put it in gear, handbrake on and got someone to apply the foot brake. Thread is not Left hand. I think that the bolt should be replaced, but mine went back in with some thread locking compo.

 Best of luck !  

[Kevin Wood]

Recently had a similar drama with Mrs. KW's MX 5. If you can, try to solidly lock the crank in position rather than putting the car in gear. There's so much give in the transmission that you can only apply gentle torque with this method - hence you can't "shock" it off.

Ideally, lock the pulley rather than the crank. If the pulley is a 2 part job with bolts on the front, split it and use the bolt holes to lock it by making up a tool from some scrap metal to brace it against another bolt on the engine block.

Failing that, try to lock the flywheel, perhaps by accessing it via the starter motor opening.

Might be worth getting someone to tap it with a hammer while you've got the torque on, and also use lots of Plus Gas - not WD40. If it doesn't give one day, soak it in Plus Gas and try again the next day. It'll go in the end!

Kevin

[shyboy]

Why not WD40, Kevin?

[Kevin Wood]

Why not WD40, Kevin?

It's primarily a water dispersant rather than a penetrating oil. Whilst it may sometimes help, Plus Gas is far more effective for penetrating into siezed fasteners.

Kevin

[Marks DTM Calib]

There is a special tool for holding the crank pulley - KM-977-1 (2) in conjunction with KM-956.

[shyboy]

Why not WD40, Kevin?

It's primarily a water dispersant rather than a penetrating oil. Whilst it may sometimes help, Plus Gas is far more effective for penetrating into siezed fasteners.

Kevin

OK!