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[HerefordElite]

I've finaly got round to changing my wishbones and drop links - went ok apart form the weather!!
Real pig getting the bottom ball joint apart - split it with pronged tool then hammered the crap out of the old arm with a 4 foot metal bar

Also the rear bolt is awkward to get to - drivers side is not too bad just needed 3 long extensions (about 700mm!!!) to reach it but passenger side is a real fiddle coming at it from the centre of the car see pics :



Lots of messing about to get the rear bush back into the chassis bracket (screwdriver to prise then bolt from below to align then re-fit from above)

All went ok really and it no longer clonks over speedbumps BUT........

the steering wheel isn't centralised now what have i done?? :question

[Marks DTM Calib]

Suspect you have done nothing, wishbones are a major part of the suspension so would need tracking (and camber idealy) checking after changing.

[HerefordElite]

Suspect you have done nothing, wishbones are a major part of the suspension so would need tracking (and camber idealy) checking after changing.

Was going to get camber checked but didn't realise steering wheel could be adjusted by track-rod ends?/ (or am i being dense?)
Wheel was straight before but guess that was set for the worn 'bones?

cheers Mark

[Marks DTM Calib]

Suspect you have done nothing, wishbones are a major part of the suspension so would need tracking (and camber idealy) checking after changing.

Was going to get camber checked but didn't realise steering wheel could be adjusted by track-rod ends?/ (or am i being dense?)
Wheel was straight before but guess that was set for the worn 'bones?

cheers Mark

Steering wheel position is adjustable, shorten one track rod and lengthen the other and it will move...

[HerefordElite]

Suspect you have done nothing, wishbones are a major part of the suspension so would need tracking (and camber idealy) checking after changing.

Was going to get camber checked but didn't realise steering wheel could be adjusted by track-rod ends?/ (or am i being dense?)
Wheel was straight before but guess that was set for the worn 'bones?

cheers Mark

Steering wheel position is adjustable, shorten one track rod and lengthen the other and it will move...

yeah i new i was being dense - would the tyre centre do that while adjusting tracking?
 
 

[Kevin Wood]

would the tyre centre do that while adjusting tracking?

They should, if they're doing it properly, although I've known them to make it worse.

Watch what they're doing. The first thing they should do is to clamp the steering wheel in the "straight ahead" position, and hten adjust the track rods to obtain the correct toe. Effectively you clamp the steering column straignt and then adjust each wheel so it's also straight.

Sometimes they take a short cut and adjust without clamping the steering first, and this is how the steering ends up wonky.

Kevin

[HerefordElite]

would the tyre centre do that while adjusting tracking?

They should, if they're doing it properly, although I've known them to make it worse.

Watch what they're doing. The first thing they should do is to clamp the steering wheel in the "straight ahead" position, and hten adjust the track rods to obtain the correct toe. Effectively you clamp the steering column straignt and then adjust each wheel so it's also straight.

Sometimes they take a short cut and adjust without clamping the steering first, and this is how the steering ends up wonky.

Kevin

Thanks Kev i thought they should - still can't believe it was so far off centre just because of wear in the old 'bones

[Kevin Wood]

would the tyre centre do that while adjusting tracking?

They should, if they're doing it properly, although I've known them to make it worse.

Watch what they're doing. The first thing they should do is to clamp the steering wheel in the "straight ahead" position, and hten adjust the track rods to obtain the correct toe. Effectively you clamp the steering column straignt and then adjust each wheel so it's also straight.

Sometimes they take a short cut and adjust without clamping the steering first, and this is how the steering ends up wonky.

Kevin

Thanks Kev i thought they should - still can't believe it was so far off centre just because of wear in the old 'bones

The toe has probably been adjusted to compensate for the wishbone wear - to bring the toe angle back in as the wishbone is (effectively) lengthening.

It's well worth getting a geometry check done, because if toe has gone out, camber will also be off, and this can cause ferocious shoulder wear.

Kevin

[HerefordElite]

would the tyre centre do that while adjusting tracking?

They should, if they're doing it properly, although I've known them to make it worse.

Watch what they're doing. The first thing they should do is to clamp the steering wheel in the "straight ahead" position, and hten adjust the track rods to obtain the correct toe. Effectively you clamp the steering column straignt and then adjust each wheel so it's also straight.

Sometimes they take a short cut and adjust without clamping the steering first, and this is how the steering ends up wonky.

Kevin

Thanks Kev i thought they should - still can't believe it was so far off centre just because of wear in the old 'bones

The toe has probably been adjusted to compensate for the wishbone wear - to bring the toe angle back in as the wishbone is (effectively) lengthening.

It's well worth getting a geometry check done, because if toe has gone out, camber will also be off, and this can cause ferocious shoulder wear.

Kevin

will get it sorted asap - cheers guys

[HerefordElite]

would the tyre centre do that while adjusting tracking?

They should, if they're doing it properly, although I've known them to make it worse.

Watch what they're doing. The first thing they should do is to clamp the steering wheel in the "straight ahead" position, and hten adjust the track rods to obtain the correct toe. Effectively you clamp the steering column straignt and then adjust each wheel so it's also straight.

Sometimes they take a short cut and adjust without clamping the steering first, and this is how the steering ends up wonky.

Kevin

Thanks Kev i thought they should - still can't believe it was so far off centre just because of wear in the old 'bones

The toe has probably been adjusted to compensate for the wishbone wear - to bring the toe angle back in as the wishbone is (effectively) lengthening.

It's well worth getting a geometry check done, because if toe has gone out, camber will also be off, and this can cause ferocious shoulder wear.

Kevin

Right got the beast booked in for 4 wheel alignment and camber check tomorrow, any last minute tips?
I've read up a bit about WIM suggesting diff settings dependant on vehicle height (i.e. spring wear) but guessing my local tyre centre will just go with what their computer tells them :-/

[Kevin Wood]

guessing my local tyre centre will just go with what their computer tells them

That's the danger. The limits on the machines are so wide that there can still be horrendous tyre wear with everything in the green.

For a start, ask them to set the camber at the low end of the range (say 1^o10') and get both sides the same. Don't accept it if everything's green but the alignment is obviously asymmetrical. After that you can keep an eye on tyre wear and see what happens.

Mine had about 2^o on one side and 2^o40' on the other and it was still green.  

The advantage with Tony at WIM, is that he'll look at how the suspension is sitting and decide what's a good starting point for the camber, as the ideal figure will vary from car to car. Might be worth PM'ing him and see if he can give you any base settings to work from.

Kevin

[HerefordElite]

guessing my local tyre centre will just go with what their computer tells them

That's the danger. The limits on the machines are so wide that there can still be horrendous tyre wear with everything in the green.

For a start, ask them to set the camber at the low end of the range (say 1^o10') and get both sides the same. Don't accept it if everything's green but the alignment is obviously asymmetrical. After that you can keep an eye on tyre wear and see what happens.

Mine had about 2^o on one side and 2^o40' on the other and it was still green.  

The advantage with Tony at WIM, is that he'll look at how the suspension is sitting and decide what's a good starting point for the camber, as the ideal figure will vary from car to car. Might be worth PM'ing him and see if he can give you any base settings to work from.

Kevin

cheers Kev - Pm'd Tony a while back but appreciate he's not a regular visiter

[Kevin Wood]

guessing my local tyre centre will just go with what their computer tells them

That's the danger. The limits on the machines are so wide that there can still be horrendous tyre wear with everything in the green.

For a start, ask them to set the camber at the low end of the range (say 1^o10') and get both sides the same. Don't accept it if everything's green but the alignment is obviously asymmetrical. After that you can keep an eye on tyre wear and see what happens.

Mine had about 2^o on one side and 2^o40' on the other and it was still green.  

The advantage with Tony at WIM, is that he'll look at how the suspension is sitting and decide what's a good starting point for the camber, as the ideal figure will vary from car to car. Might be worth PM'ing him and see if he can give you any base settings to work from.

Kevin

cheers Kev - Pm'd Tony a while back but appreciate he's not a regular visiter

With a new centre under construction I would imagine he's probably a busy chap at the moment too.

Get them to set it at the lowish end of the scale and see how you get on. Mine was certainly eating tyres at the 2^o end of the scale (most alignment machines have the limit at well over 2^o). As I said, however, YMMV as what the camber does dynamically depends on how the suspension has worn.

Kevin