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[JamesV6CDX]

Noticed a tiny  pin hole in my rad...
Do you think it's worth getting a replacement, or should I investigate things like plastic padding putty etc? Would it last? I've used it with good results on other things..

[Kevin Wood]

Can't you replace it with the rad out of the other car that has a larger hole elsewhere?

Depends where the hole is i guess. I would regard such a repair as something that's going to bite me when I least expect it though...

Kevin

[JamesV6CDX]

Can't you replace it with the rad out of the other car that has a larger hole elsewhere?

Depends where the hole is i guess. I would regard such a repair as something that's going to bite me when I least expect it though...

Kevin

It's accessible, right at the top. And I really do mean tiny.

May consider new, rather than the old looking one from the Satin car  

[Mr Skrunts]

Cant you plug it with some solder?

[Entwood]

Trouble with holes is ... they tend to grow under pressure, and any "gunge" you use will probably only put off the moment it gives way completely, as it is likely the metal around the hole is getting pretty weak as well ....

[feeutfo]

bars water leaks??? used it a couple of times as a last resort, and its stopped the leak. No idea what effect it has on the cooling part of the system tho. Claims to lube the water pump on the bottle if i remember correctly?  Also heard claims Jaguar used it in  their new cars at one point. But prob. b.s.

[JamesV6CDX]

Trouble with holes is ... they tend to grow under pressure, and any "gunge" you use will probably only put off the moment it gives way completely, as it is likely the metal around the hole is getting pretty weak as well ....

Thing is nige, it's on the plastic bit. it's a pin hole, which is surrounded by good plastic.

I'm pretty confident I could do a good repair, but I thought I'd ask the question and see if anyone has had any simelar experiences

Chris - no way am I using an additive, it's more hassle than it's worth

[philhoward]

Try a high temperature epoxy - not Araldite as its gets a little soft when hot (although i glued a fan switch in with Araldite and it held).

Might need to go to a specialist (I think RS Components do some) to get some.  For a tenner or so could save you a lot of hassle.  Worth a punt?

Standard disclaimers apply - make sure the surrounding surface is dry, clean and well roughed up, etc...

If it was on the Metal part, i'd say try JB Weld.  Used the stuff for years - safe to about 150/200 degrees and i've not had a failure with it yet.  I've seen cracked blocks (frost damage) fixed with the stuff!

[Kevin Wood]

I reckon JB weld would be worth a try on plastic too. IME it sticks like sh!t to a blanket no matter what the material and, as said, it takes temperature no problem. I fabricated a clutch release bearing for the Westfield out of bits of 2 bearings stuck together with it. 42k and 8 years later it's still fine.

I would drain the radiator and try to massage a bit of it into the hole, leaving a coating on the outside as well, then let it go off thoroughly before refilling.

Kevin

[feeutfo]

Trouble with holes is ... they tend to grow under pressure, and any "gunge" you use will probably only put off the moment it gives way completely, as it is likely the metal around the hole is getting pretty weak as well ....

Thing is nige, it's on the plastic bit. it's a pin hole, which is surrounded by good plastic.

I'm pretty confident I could do a good repair, but I thought I'd ask the question and see if anyone has had any simelar experiences

Chris - no way am I using an additive, it's more hassle than it's worth

Hassle? I was affraid it might be fround upon to be honest. Would you mind educating me on that one?

[Andy B]

..... - no way am I using an additive, it's more hassle than it's worth

It was  lot less hassle using a bottle of Barrs 'radweld' when I was in Devon with  caravan & a leaky radiator than it was to pay for the recovery for the whole outfit back to Manchester, where I could then fix it on my drive.

As for the hole in the end tank. If you have some plastic putty ... try it. You've not lost anything if it fails & gained not having to fork £200 out for a new rad if it works.

[philhoward]

I reckon JB weld would be worth a try on plastic too. IME it sticks like sh!t to a blanket no matter what the material and, as said, it takes temperature no problem. I fabricated a clutch release bearing for the Westfield out of bits of 2 bearings stuck together with it. 42k and 8 years later it's still fine.

I've never had anything fail with JB either - but even I haven't tried a clutch release bearing!  One to note, though..

My only concern would have been any possible differential expansion (plastic vs. JB Weld) - but thinking about it, can't see any problem with it in all honesty.

Bloody marvellous stuff....almost a toolbox staple..

[JamesV6CDX]

..... - no way am I using an additive, it's more hassle than it's worth

It was  lot less hassle using a bottle of Barrs 'radweld' when I was in Devon with  caravan & a leaky radiator than it was to pay for the recovery for the whole outfit back to Manchester, where I could then fix it on my drive.

As for the hole in the end tank. If you have some plastic putty ... try it. You've not lost anything if it fails & gained not having to fork £200 out for a new rad if it works.

It can definately fix the leaks, BUT I've seen it kill heater matrix's, simelar..

[Andy B]

.....
It can definately fix the leaks, BUT I've seen it kill heater matrix's, simelar..

Agreed. But recovery from Devon would have killed my wallet more though!    

[rickyboy]

Ground ginger works a treat if you go down the additive route.