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[amba]

Well nice day ,so thought I would change my long over due fron t discs and pads.
All went well ..car jacked and supported by stands..both front wheels removed...decided to attack nearside first...gave both caliper mounting bolts a spray with Plusgas and had a coffee....then got 18mm deep socket on braker bar and tried for england....damn thing would not dudge....after the socket slipping and knurling the head on the top bolt decided to give the bottom the same treatment...yes that was as bad so got a 3ft piece of scaffold pole to give move leverage..........then the head of the bottom bolt snapped clean off with part of the tread attached....at this point decided not to continue further as was getting into dangerous water as need to use car later tonight.
I did get new bolts for the calipers when I bought the discs from vauxhall,but does any one have any idea of how to remove the top bolt,and more importantly the broken bolt from the hub....or is it a garage job...and more to the point what is the likely implications of the car being usde with only 1 caliper mounting....

[Agemo]

I think you are going to need another caliper, because you will have to get the angle grinder out. I would hate to have to drill out the thread, sorry but I can think of no other way. If memory serves, you can separate the actual caliper from it's mounting bracket, so you could get away with just a bracket. I am sure someone will suggest an "Easy out" type thread extractor, but you know how tight the bolts are. Sorry I can't be of more help. If the caliper seems solid, you are "Probably" OK to drive it.

[Matchless]

 You cant drive it with one of the bolts sheared off, its not safe.

Are they very rusted? the thread lock normally stops the threads from rusting-in. Or has someone used the wrong grade of locktite....say the green 'retainer' which would be stronger than the bolt.

You have to drill out one broken bolt and somehow get the rounded-off one out so a replacement stub axle assy from a breaker is probably your best bet. It means getting the camber and tracking reset afterwards.
If you try to remove the old bolts, get some heat onto them first, either oxy or mapp gas, this will soften any locktite and release any rust.

[Ghost]

Get yourself a lefthanded drill bit and drill it out, you could have luck and it will come out without damaging the threds, it must be a left handed bit though, the normal bits go in the direction of tightning it,

[amba]

Am now highly suspecting all 4 discs have had incorrect locktite put on bolts when last replaced, as I couldn,t see why the bolt was soo tight it actually sheared before coming out.
Unsure when they were last done as I have only ever had pads replaced,not discs.
Looks as like what started off as a simple disc/pad renewal has turned into a bit of a problem,especially if I need to get 2 replacement hubs for front..let alone what is the problems with the rears.

[amba]

All now fixed...local garage(which I have never used before)managed to drill out broken bolt and heat up remainder so they have all now been changed for nice new VX bolts.
When weather is next dry? should be able to replace all 4 discs and pads,as planned last week.

[unlucky mark mv6]

All now fixed...local garage(which I have never used before)managed to drill out broken bolt and heat up remainder so they have all now been changed for nice new VX bolts.
When weather is next dry? should be able to replace all 4 discs and pads,as planned last week.

And get a tub of copper grease.

[Andy H]

And get a tub of copper grease.

The correct grade of locktite is also useful, it will prevent bolts coming loose on their own and keeps moisture out & prevents corrosion so they won't be seized when you do want to remove them.