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[tomoco]

Hi all , my gearchange is still a bit grabby when gearbox is cold. after 20 miles or so its fine, super smooth in all gears at all revs. i.ve blead the clutch in the normal way but i remember a while back on here that you could revese bleed the thing to get rid of any small amounts of air that normal bleeding cant shift.
Is this as simple as it sounds but in reverse. I have an Easy bleed which i used last time.
Any tips?
Mark t

[RobG]

Hi all , my gearchange is still a bit grabby when gearbox is cold. after 20 miles or so its fine, super smooth in all gears at all revs. i.ve blead the clutch in the normal way but i remember a while back on here that you could revese bleed the thing to get rid of any small amounts of air that normal bleeding cant shift.
Is this as simple as it sounds but in reverse. I have an Easy bleed which i used last time.
Any tips?
Mark t

In my experiences with manual boxes they`ve all had that characteristic when cold

[Seth]

Hi all , my gearchange is still a bit grabby when gearbox is cold. after 20 miles or so its fine, super smooth in all gears at all revs. i.ve blead the clutch in the normal way but i remember a while back on here that you could revese bleed the thing to get rid of any small amounts of air that normal bleeding cant shift.
Is this as simple as it sounds but in reverse. I have an Easy bleed which i used last time.
Any tips?
Mark t

In my experiences with manual boxes they`ve all had that characteristic when cold

Exactly the same on mine too!

[tomoco]

Yes they seem to be but i want to try and sort mine if i can. i.ve had a new gearbox, new clutch and new flywheel. big improvement so far. just bought some new oil, going to change it tomorrow. One thing though the oil is the latest spec from VX but when you poor it out the bottle it seems very watery and pink. i thought gearbox,s were like back axle's and needed a very thick oil (EP80 or 90)
its fully synthetic too

[Matchless]

modern gearboxes use a fully synthetic fairly light (thin) oil. Use the latest stuff from Vx but drain it out after a few miles and refill with fresh oil to avoid problems mixing with whatever was in there before.

To reverse bleed, take the master cylinder cap off your easibleed and find a piece of rubber or silicone tube that is a tight fit on the bleed nipple and on the easibleed pipe.
Partly drain the master cylinder (syringe works well), connect easibleed to the bleed nipple and open the bleed nipple. connect up your air supply and fluid should flow in through the nipple and up to the master cylinder reservoir.
You will leak a bit of fluid from the bleed nipple threads.
Dont use more than 5 - 10 psi or you will be wearing the hydraulic fluid yourself.

[tomoco]

Thanks for the info Matchless. I'll let the spare down to below 10 psi. 

[Matchless]

If you cant find a suitable rubber pipe for the connection then try a pet shop. I found a coil of silicone tube which is mostly 4mm bore but has sections which expand out to 10mm bore every metre or so. Think it is intended for aquariums. Found lots of uses for it.