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[TheBoy]

I took the viscous fan off about 3 weeks ago, and replaced the stat at the same time.

It runs perfect now.  Gets up to about 80 quicker and then holds steady at that temp.

Both jobs were quite easy to do.

 

Interesting because when I removed mine, the steady-state temperature went from 92.5 to 97.5 yet yours is a 80 without the viscous

gauges vary between facelift and earlier

[chartz]

I strongly maintain that you should clean the aircon radiator before doing anything else: it is all important to keep a good airflow through both rads. And since the aircon one is first on the path, it seems pretty obvious to do it first, doesn't it?
My thermostat was changed too, but this had no effect on the behaviour of the viscous clutch.
My temps are 92,5 with fan and 97 without fan. But what is important I was told is the fact that the needle should always be right in the middle of the scale (at noon for BMW owners). The temp shown is probably wrong anyway... I could not keep the fan out in summer, no way, but this was before cleaning the rad. These are the normal temps, and 80 (pre-facelift) always shows a bad thermostat, or a new one probably fitted the wrong way—or defective. Is your heating working properly? On mine, it is fully operational after 5 minutes' drive, which is normal according to BMW people.

[TheBoy]

I strongly maintain that you should clean the aircon radiator before doing anything else: it is all important to keep a good airflow through both rads. And since the aircon one is first on the path, it seems pretty obvious to do it first, doesn't it?
My thermostat was changed too, but this had no effect on the behaviour of the viscous clutch.
My temps are 92,5 with fan and 97 without fan. But what is important I was told is the fact that the needle should always be right in the middle of the scale (at noon for BMW owners). The temp shown is probably wrong anyway... I could not keep the fan out in summer, no way, but this was before cleaning the rad. These are the normal temps, and 80 (pre-facelift) always shows a bad thermostat, or a new one probably fitted the wrong way—or defective. Is your heating working properly? On mine, it is fully operational after 5 minutes' drive, which is normal according to BMW people.

Correct - a good airflow across the rad is essential for that engine, which does seem to suffer cooling issues.  Also a good rad (known to be completely silted up at around 120k).

If the BMW lump has been abused, servicing wise, at any point in its history (remember, initiall 4.5k max (later 7.5k max to please fleet managers) oild change intervals), then a good, strong oil flush may be needed, as the piston cooling jets may clog. Result, overheating - drastically if completely blocked.


Facelift gauge is marked 80/100C, as opposed to 90/100C, so 85C on gauge would be expected cruise temp, rising to 93C. If a facelift got to 95C, or prefacelift to 98C, I would start to be concerned.


Note, if the stat is working properly, and the rad is working properly, the viscous should have zero effect (other than wasted noise/energy), unless working hard at low speed (towing), even then, leccy fans should be able to keep up.

[chartz]

Note, if the stat is working properly, and the rad is working properly, the viscous should have zero effect (other than wasted noise/energy), unless working hard at low speed (towing), even then, leccy fans should be able to keep up.

Indeed, if the aircon radiator isn't obstructed! In hot summertime, they are always on anyway! (okay I live in Burgundy and I go to Midi on holidays)