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Author Topic: Heater matrix change  (Read 540 times)

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GaryBC

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Heater matrix change
« on: 20 September 2010, 10:03:47 »

Having done the "cheat's" matrix change at the weekend (through the footwell) I just thought I'd pass on thanks to whoever thought of this method - it worked really well.

A couple of things I noted that may be of assistance to the next person who does one.

The first thing is that, it was obvious when I took my old one out that the rubber boot on the 'far' end must have been inserted from the nearside as it has a flange running round it. Now I know the instructions in the 'How To' are to discard it and use the new one supplied, but my new matrix had no similar boot/gasket and, without something there to support and seal the far end, it rattled around like a prick in a bucket. So, cutting up the old boot, and adding many layers of insulating tape, I had to fashion an alternative. This seems to have worked ok.

The other thing I noted is that the small, square, captive nut that forms the water pipes connection was a much tighter fit in the new matrix than the old one. I only found this out having wiggled and teased the new matrix into place! As I couldn't then get the nut in I had to take the bloody thing back out - the nut ended up having to be squeezed into place with pliers then 'adjusted' so that the screw would go in easily!

Other than than, great! I now have heat in the cabin!!
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Welung666

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Re: Heater matrix change
« Reply #1 on: 20 September 2010, 11:54:03 »

The far end boot I tend to use 3 or 4 spots of superglue to stick it directly to the matrix, then vaseline all 4 edges and force it through from the drivers side footwell. Once it's started it slides through a treat ;)
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