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[VOYAGER]

Hello everyone;

I have a 1998 2,5 V6 CD automatic gearbox, acting weird nowadays. At parking lot or after a drive, when I attempt to start again no matter what the time period is, the indicator lights go dim as the starter will start with no "click" sound, but no cranking at all. Sometimes, I have been parking the car, stopping the engine and immediately starting again with success like it never happened before . But in the same manner, sometimes no cranking again during the day or night .

I took the car to the Opel Authorized Service yesterday and have them checked this "gost". After a short inspection, they told me that they would replace some parts in the following order to diagnose the failure: Battery, ignition comutator, starter parts and starter itself. Actually, it seemed so strange to me and I want to share my opinions about this situation in terms of my Opel and Aviaton Electrical background. I will be more than happy if you give me the ideas of how to solve this and not to waste money for no reason. Here are my opinions:

* Battery: Not related with this failure, since starter turns fine enough to start the engine when everything is OK with the car. And, the voltage is within limits as well.

* Ignition Comutator: It might be somewhere in the steering column and seem to me a relay thingy to interrupt the circuit. To ensure, starter has to be checked if the voltage comes from the ignition when the key turned to start the engine. If voltage comes, it might be the different thing on the starter.  If it does not come, failure might be this relay thingy. I have not checked this voltage yet.

* Starter and the parts belonging to starter: Sometimes, actually if the car wants to start :-/, starter motor turns normally not slowly and without abnormal noise. For that reason, I do not want to replace starter and battery.

* Selective switch under the shift lever: Sometimes, it might not recognize in which position (P, R, N, D, 2 or 1) the lever is. And, that switch might not let the ignition start.

If anyone met this situation before or had any opinion; any help would be really appreciated. Thanks for your time.

[Marks DTM Calib]

If the starter is clicking but not cranking and the lights go dim then it sounds battery related to me.

[VOYAGER]

Sometimes, in other words, if the car does not want to start, no"click" sound can be heard like battery disconnected. But sometimes, as everyone does, get in the car and turn the key, start the engine, that's it. If everything is OK, from the battery to starter nothing is wrong. Starter turns like the battery is brand new. But when it happened, turn the key, no cranking like everything is dead. Indicator lights go dim but not like the battery is dead. As I mentioned, voltage is within limits and when I get in the car, everything is working included air conditioning fan and the CD music. 

[Marks DTM Calib]

Sometimes, in other words, if the car does not want to start, no"click" sound can be heard like battery disconnected. But sometimes, as everyone does, get in the car and turn the key, start the engine, that's it. If everything is OK, from the battery to starter nothing is wrong. Starter turns like the battery is brand new. But when it happened, turn the key, no cranking like everything is dead. Indicator lights go dim but not like the battery is dead. As I mentioned, voltage is within limits and when I get in the car, everything is working included air conditioning fan and the CD music. 

Voltage tells you nothing about a battery, it needs a proper load test. You could have a failing internal cell which has an intermittent higher resistance.

[VOYAGER]

By meaning "voltage within limits" I have meant that during "under load or normal cranking" . Apologies if I mislead you. Is a proper laod test with everything on such as A/C, high beam, courtesy light, etc, and cranking?

[Kevin Wood]

Have a work through this guide: http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1225724099

That will tell you if you have a battery / charging issue.

Also check the positive terminal of the battery where the larger of the wires is crimped into the connector (does it get hot when running?), and also the negative connection of the battery down to the chassis and engine block.

Kevin

[VOYAGER]

Thank you Mr.Kevin. I will have a work this evening.

[Big_Roger]

Hi,
I would go with Kevins suggestion on the crimping of the positive terminal large cable.

This crimp carries power for the starter and for the alternator.

On mine I could see some discolouration of the insulation just where the cable goes into the crimp, but as the car was starting OK didn't think there could be any real problem. Until one day the car wouldn't start, but lights etc OK.  I was stuck in middle of nowhere, no tools or anything. Had to call RAC, yes, it was the crimp joint.

RAC man put a safety pin through the insulation of the large cable to get a connection direct to the copper core about 4" back fron the crimp and checked volt drop from there to the battery terminal. with just lights etc had 1.5V rising to 10V when tried to start car.

We fiddled and twisted and pulled the cable eventually got sufficient connection to get started and get home. Checked terminal when I got home and burnt my finger, had blister for several days.

Now have replaced last 6" of cable with new, butt crimped and now connected to battery terminal with ring crimp trrminal.

HTH

Roger

[VOYAGER]

Thank you very much to all. Becasue of my job shift, I could not have a chance to look into it according to your suggestions. Whenever I perform the operation, I will write down here. Best regards...