Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length

[TheBoy]

I believe it changed from 3 to 4 channel but not 1998 but late 97. Mine has had two go in my long tenure.

Correct (as is Entwood above) - the system was updated with a new ECU and hydraulic unit to support a fully independent ABS setup (and enhanced Traction Control on V6 models).

Remember, the 1998 models started to be sold from Sep 97.  The easy way to tell is if you have a mini facelift (or a facelift), you have the seemingly more fragile ABS ECU.

[Abiton]

yes.. its precisely like that(i was logged and didn't thought it is needed).. the main thing is to redo all the weldings there and it will work but verry important, at least for me, is to know your way around with electrics

  Very interesting.  I work with electronics, so would be very happy to to have a look at one of these from an Omega.  Who's got a dead one they're not doing anything with? 

[TheBoy]

yes.. its precisely like that(i was logged and didn't thought it is needed).. the main thing is to redo all the weldings there and it will work but verry important, at least for me, is to know your way around with electrics

  Very interesting.  I work with electronics, so would be very happy to to have a look at one of these from an Omega.  Who's got a dead one they're not doing anything with? 

MDTM did post up a picture a while back showing what the common fault was

[Abiton]

He did, but I think that was only one unit he'd looked at?  And a bond wire that's broken away may or may not be consistent with the gradual worsening symptoms people generally seem to report? I'm not sure.
Vibration damage to solder joints on the main connector - on the other hand - might be consistent with observed failure behaviour.  :-/

Maybe the bondwires in the image Mark posted are the connections from board to connector, dunno?

[Chris_H]

I've got a duff one sitting next to me but I haven't got round to removing the appropriate cover.  Will report what I find.

[Chris_H]

I've got a duff one sitting next to me but I haven't got round to removing the appropriate cover.  Will report what I find.

A rash promise obviously but here's a picture.


I can't immediately see a problem with this one but it went through the usual intermittent working phase so I presume there is a poor connection somewhere.  There are bonded jumper wires on most of the peripheral pads, gold at the top and really soft aluminium(?) on the bottom row.  The gel covering the board is not set believe it or not.

Note where the lid separates if you are hoping to attempt a repair.  It may be possible to preserve the plastic better by making a small (< 1cm) cut in the edge as it breaks its bond self fairly easilytidily once you can get a screwdriver in the gap.

If I spot the fault on this one I will update.

HTH

[Chris_H]

Further info on ABS ECU:  bottom connector in above photo is part of solenoid system on the other side so these must be actuator drives.

Top connector looks like this (stitched photo):


T'other side:

[Abiton]

Good work Chris. 

Comparing with MDTM's pic:

http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1265622074/5#5

It looks like maybe the doubled-up 'heavy'-gauge bond wires are probably the 'weakest links', and perhaps one parts company with the board, then the other, giving 'misbehaviour' due to impedance change, then outright failure.  :-/

All speculation, of course. It would be interesting to see if one of that pair was no longer reliably tacked down onto the board, just held there by the 'gloop'.

[Chris_H]

Good work Chris. 

Comparing with MDTM's pic:

http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1265622074/5#5

It looks like maybe the doubled-up 'heavy'-gauge bond wires are probably the 'weakest links', and perhaps one parts company with the board, then the other, giving 'misbehaviour' due to impedance change, then outright failure.  :-/

All speculation, of course. It would be interesting to see if one of that pair was no longer reliably tacked down onto the board, just held there by the 'gloop'.

I just hooked all the jumpers with a jeweller's screwdriver under a bench magnifier and the two thick ones are free at the 'top'  end.  I would suspect they're not steel though, much too soft.

I may get the bellows back on the camera later for another pic.

[Chris_H]

Good work Chris. 

Comparing with MDTM's pic:

http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1265622074/5#5

It looks like maybe the doubled-up 'heavy'-gauge bond wires are probably the 'weakest links', and perhaps one parts company with the board, then the other, giving 'misbehaviour' due to impedance change, then outright failure.  :-/

All speculation, of course. It would be interesting to see if one of that pair was no longer reliably tacked down onto the board, just held there by the 'gloop'.

I just hooked all the jumpers with a jeweller's screwdriver under a bench magnifier and the two thick ones are free at the 'top'  end.  I would suspect they're not steel though, much too soft.

I may get the bellows back on the camera later for another pic.

Yes both bonds have broken and I used zero effort to move them despite the apparent carnage!  I suspect if the enveloping gel was cleaned off, a copper jumper could be soldered in place but that may be too rigid to last.  If this is the main power return for the solenoids it would take some high peak currents and the whole unit may well be exposed to some wild physical disturbances as the solenoids click in and out.

From reading other posts on here it seems this is the standard fault with these units.

[Abiton]

Another top pic Chris. 
Do you make money from your photography?  If not, I think you could/should.

According to a bit of googling, those wires may be pure/nearly pure aluminium, which would explain the soft feel.  Will be buggers to attempt to solder if so.

I would be tempted to try soldering some copper wire(s) in their place, though it may be tricky to remove the ali ones from the board pad to make room.

I wonder what BBA-reman or whoever do to fix this?
Worth remembering maybe that the manufacturer wouldn't necessarily have picked the best connection method, just the cheapest one that they thought was adequate at the time.  Reading a bit about aluminium bond wires, suggests that they work better onto an aluminium pad, than a gold/gold-plated one.  :-/

[Andy H]

Does anyone have any experience of 'electrically conductive epoxy resin'?

http://uk.farnell.com/circuitworks/cw2400/adhesive-silver-epoxy-conductive/dp/604057