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[mrjimbo]

The eBay engine is from a 96 which is a pre facelift so has the shorter plenum chamber but is otherwise the same as the later 3.0 engine as far as i know but i'm sure someone will confirm 

[Entwood]

Thanks.
If it's factory fitted, that's good.  I'm just looking into body kit options at the moment.  I think if it's a factory option when the car was new, then it doesn't count as a "modification" on the insurance.  Otherwise premium might go up with an aftermarket one...
(Although modification from standard spec is a bit of a vague term in my books)

Be VERY careful with that approach ...   If the car is "different" from standard ..even factory fit.. and you don't tell them, they "could" refuse a payout at worst. At best they could insist on fitting "standard" parts in the event of damage .. so the bodykit would not be replaced like-for-like but with "normal" bits.

How do I know this ....?   A lot of research in insuring this

<-------

Which has the full Irmscher body kit ... 

[baby2bubble]

I went round last night as he was removing the battery and had a quick look, I know I said he took the head off, but didnt realise he put the head in the boot and left cams etc exposed!

The cams are beginning to show signs of rust where they are no longer protected, ie on the rings (sorry dont know how to explain it but the ring shaped parts of the cams) and water sitting in certain parts of the block, such as on the spark plugs with rust starting to show!

Now fearing that a new engine will be the only option, Im heading round in a bit to start getting the water out and see whats in the boot. Think something else may have been taken off.

Still, we will see what its like and try to get somebody local to take a quick look but think it may be a waste of time now. Ill try to get some decent photos of it but again, doubt it will be much use. Dont know where else water could have gone.

As for the trim, as I said it wasnt Irmscher but another extra, its Stienmetz trim which I believe is the window spoiler, boot spoiler, 17" alloys, headligths and a few other bits.

[JamesV6CDX]

I went round last night as he was removing the battery and had a quick look, I know I said he took the head off, but didnt realise he put the head in the boot and left cams etc exposed!

The cams are beginning to show signs of rust where they are no longer protected, ie on the rings (sorry dont know how to explain it but the ring shaped parts of the cams) and water sitting in certain parts of the block, such as on the spark plugs with rust starting to show!

Going on the above, the head has NOT been taken off.

The cams have to come out to get to the head bolts - so if you can see the cams, they are above the head - so the head is still fitted!

The spark plugs also screw into the head, so you wouldn't see these, if the head was in the boot!

So - nothing by way of valve damage can be ascertained by just looking at that.

I've not read this thread, but, has the cam timing been checked and confirmed, and the engine properly compression tested?

If not - that's the first job - followed by an oil pressure test.

[baby2bubble]

Going on the above, the head has NOT been taken off.

The cams have to come out to get to the head bolts - so if you can see the cams, they are above the head - so the head is still fitted!

The spark plugs also screw into the head, so you wouldn't see these, if the head was in the boot!

So - nothing by way of valve damage can be ascertained by just looking at that.

I've not read this thread, but, has the cam timing been checked and confirmed, and the engine properly compression tested?

If not - that's the first job - followed by an oil pressure test.

Course, its the rocker covers that been removed!

No test have really been carried out on it. The thread basically tells me that is not been looked at properly from the start. Does the rocker cover have a gasket set? If its not too big a job, I could put them back on for relevant tests to be carried out. I still need to check whats in the boot though.

[Entwood]

I wonder if the camcovers have been removed in an attempt to "see" if the valves have been damaged in any way .... not a lot of use IMHO but a possible reason ?? No need to put them back on fully while you do the next bits .. just place in position.

Valve timing needs to be checked PROPERLY by following the cambelt change procedure and the use of correct timing tools

Once that is confirmed as OK then a compression test needs doing.

ONLY those checks will save you having to take the heads off ... if you are lucky ..

[Shackeng]

If, as seems possible, the tensioner has failed, and/or the cam belt jumped a few teeth, and even if not, it seems the height of irresponsibility to have been advised by the AA to drive home. Does a member have any comeback in these circumstances?

[Kevin Wood]

Sounds to me like the mechanic started stripping it, got out of his depth and cried "new engine".

As said, first job is to make sure the cam timing is correct, compression test will tell you if you have bent valves, then, if that is satisfactory, put the covers back on and check oil pressure.

Kevin

[baby2bubble]

Hi,

while since Ive been on, been busy but eventually this week got him to let me put all the top back on. As I say it was stripped down to the cams but, managed to get it all done AND get it started!

It started up, with huge help of my car boosting it and took a while but runs and drives. I drove it to the end of the drive and it stalled, had to get my car back on it.

As for the engine, well, it was on for over an hour in the end. No leaks, no over heating.

Very loud though, engine sounds very rough and now has a lot more movement that it didnt have before. Not sure how to explain it...maybe if you put uprated cams to boost power, you start to get a little movement? That but not in a good way.

There was excessive smell of fuel from middle of the car back although its not ran/started for 6/7 months so probably needs a good run to clear it out.

Theres not much more I can say at this moment. Like I say, no obvious leaks or over heating but certainly sounds like a problem in the cams somewhere. It held the idle ok although jumpy and the engine management light was erm...not on but was? It was like the engine was working hard to keep the revs on, the light was flickering. It was on but not like normal. Im wondering if this was due to the revs nearly cutting out before it caught itself again each time, but probably not.

Its booked in for 10am tomorrow morning to have a local garage have a nosey at it, see what they say. Fingers crossed it wont stall on the way down there  [smiley=laugh.gif]

[MutantCav]

If you are still having problems in a week or so I can have a look at it for you...cant do anything much at the moment cos of the kids holidays but happy to check it over, can supply and fit an engine for you if needed but more than likely its something less severe if its running ok atm, lumpy running is more than likely down to not having connected the air hoses etc correctly...

[baby2bubble]

Ran it down to the garage, they just had a listen to it and straight away said cams. Then gave me number for another guy who came round to check it, he said cams too, most likely need a new engine, which he could fit but not be worth getting parts.

Again, no tests have been done on it but we have checked all connections etc and all ok. Again no over heating or leaks, just really rough.

Now looking into selling as whole as it...or breaking for spares. Whichever will get him most money.

MutantCav - Ill PM you, wouldnt want to waste your time. Cheers

[Bent valve]

It wont be 'cams'. it sounds like its jumped a tooth or 2 on the timing belt. I have heard a 3.0 litre run with the timing a few teeth out and they do sound rattly and rough, which to the uninitiated would seem like duff cams.

Get somone to check the valve timing. you may be lucky and get away with a new belt kit.

[baby2bubble]

Can this be done by mobile mechanic or again at a garage?

[MutantCav]

PM replied to

I would totally agree that cams is very very unlikely...same sort of thing as mechanics saying head gasket when its obvious to everyone on here its the oil cooler thats failed...trust the OOF!

I would also agree with getting timing checked first...unfortunately its the one area I'm short of experience on...I dont have a timing kit or enough experience to be sorting this on someone elses car, could just make it worse, a risk I'm only prepared to take on my own car currently...if you are lucky though belt/tensioner change will sort it so cost wise probably a couple of hundred quid...maybe less if you get the help of the more knowledgable belt guys on here

If you need a new top end, more like £300 or so with parts, replacement engine maybe £450.

Cars worth maybe £500-700 fixed if its got tax and MOT...

Probably worth taking scrap value instead if the cars not really needed as its money gained rather than money spent!