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Author Topic: 3.2 swap  (Read 1103 times)

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F1 9LFG

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3.2 swap
« on: 31 May 2011, 07:45:35 »

Hi chaps.

A breaker close to me has a 3.2 omega in his yard, and i couldn't help but wonder how much work is involved in swapping my 2.6 for the 3.2 and if it was really worth it.
My 2.6 is manual, the 3.2 is auto, but guessing its only bell housing that's different?
would i be able to use altenator, starter, AC pump etc from my 2.6 or is everything different, i must say, from looking at the 3.2 it all looks the same.

ECU wise, the loom should(?) be the same but will my 2.6 run the 3.2 lump or would it need changing?

Would I need to change box, prop, diff or sharts? (thinking not but thought i'd ask)

Thanks  :)
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albitz

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Re: 3.2 swap
« Reply #1 on: 31 May 2011, 08:41:49 »

I would imagine it would be easier to convert the 3.2 to manual than to convert your car to auto. ;)
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serek

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Re: 3.2 swap
« Reply #2 on: 31 May 2011, 09:56:02 »

Quote
Hi chaps.

A breaker close to me has a 3.2 omega in his yard, and i couldn't help but wonder how much work is involved in swapping my 2.6 for the 3.2 and if it was really worth it.
My 2.6 is manual, the 3.2 is auto, but guessing its only bell housing that's different?
would i be able to use altenator, starter, AC pump etc from my 2.6 or is everything different, i must say, from looking at the 3.2 it all looks the same.

ECU wise, the loom should(?) be the same but will my 2.6 run the 3.2 lump or would it need changing?

Would I need to change box, prop, diff or sharts? (thinking not but thought i'd ask)

Thanks  :)
its streight swap. you just swap bare engine that all rest parts reuse of 2.6

Kevin Wood

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Re: 3.2 swap
« Reply #3 on: 31 May 2011, 10:04:07 »

Quote
its streight swap. you just swap bare engine that all rest parts reuse of 2.6

Yep, although all the ancillaries are the same so you don't even need to strip it down to a bare engine. Just unplug the engine loom from the ECU end and plug it in to the new vehicle leaving everything on the engine.

A 3.2 will run happily enough on an ECU configured for a 2.6. If you do want to swap the ECU over as well, be sure to get the immobiliser ECU from the steering column and the transponder chips from the keys.

3.2 ECU will then need configuring for a Manual gearbox before everything works properly although it'll drive without this IIRC.

Kevin
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serek

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Re: 3.2 swap
« Reply #4 on: 31 May 2011, 11:53:23 »

Quote
Quote
its streight swap. you just swap bare engine that all rest parts reuse of 2.6

Yep, although all the ancillaries are the same so you don't even need to strip it down to a bare engine. Just unplug the engine loom from the ECU end and plug it in to the new vehicle leaving everything on the engine.

A 3.2 will run happily enough on an ECU configured for a 2.6. If you do want to swap the ECU over as well, be sure to get the immobiliser ECU from the steering column and the transponder chips from the keys.

3.2 ECU will then need configuring for a Manual gearbox before everything works properly although it'll drive without this IIRC.

Kevin
car will run ok with 3.2 ECU just spanner light come on dash and p1700 code where can by clear only with tech2 and tis, but like you say can keep 2.6 ECU and dont need do any work :y

F1 9LFG

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Re: 3.2 swap
« Reply #5 on: 31 May 2011, 13:28:53 »

good news then, :)

does anyone think its really worth the effort, whats the performance difference between them?

cheers
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Kevin Wood

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Re: 3.2 swap
« Reply #6 on: 31 May 2011, 13:38:06 »

Quote
good news then, :)

does anyone think its really worth the effort, whats the performance difference between them?

cheers

Considerable, IMHO. :y

2.6 can be livened up with the 3.0/3.2 cams if you don't fancy going the whole hog but, even then, the 3.2 has much more grunt at low to mid revs than the 2.6.

It's worth bearing in mind that the 2.6 manual would normally have a 3.9:1 diff. I believe a 3.7:1 would have been used in the 3.0/3.2 manual (3.2 auto would be 3.9). You might find the gearing a little short for the 3.2. Having said that, you might find it's fine as the standard gearing is pretty long. Just something to bear in mind. A 3.7 diff from a 3.0 manual will fix it if required.

Kevin
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F1 9LFG

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Re: 3.2 swap
« Reply #7 on: 01 June 2011, 07:05:36 »

Quote
Quote
good news then, :)

does anyone think its really worth the effort, whats the performance difference between them?

cheers

Considerable, IMHO. :y

2.6 can be livened up with the 3.0/3.2 cams if you don't fancy going the whole hog but, even then, the 3.2 has much more grunt at low to mid revs than the 2.6.

It's worth bearing in mind that the 2.6 manual would normally have a 3.9:1 diff. I believe a 3.7:1 would have been used in the 3.0/3.2 manual (3.2 auto would be 3.9). You might find the gearing a little short for the 3.2. Having said that, you might find it's fine as the standard gearing is pretty long. Just something to bear in mind. A 3.7 diff from a 3.0 manual will fix it if required.

Kevin

Thanks a lot Kevin.  ;)
« Last Edit: 01 June 2011, 07:06:03 by F1_9LFG »
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serek

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Re: 3.2 swap
« Reply #8 on: 01 June 2011, 10:10:13 »

Quote
good news then, :)

does anyone think its really worth the effort, whats the performance difference between them?

cheers
its massive differents.  :y :y
if you any where near Huntingdon pop round and have run on mine and will see what its all about :) :y

F1 9LFG

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Re: 3.2 swap
« Reply #9 on: 01 June 2011, 16:38:14 »

huntingdon isn't too far away, thanks.

i'm now looking for a 3.2 elsewhere after the breaker told me he wants £400 for the engine, removed and on a palet!

surely thats a little steep?
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serek

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Re: 3.2 swap
« Reply #10 on: 01 June 2011, 18:14:00 »

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huntingdon isn't too far away, thanks.

i'm now looking for a 3.2 elsewhere after the breaker told me he wants £400 for the engine, removed and on a palet!

surely thats a little steep?
dont think you will get good engine for less then that  :(

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Re: 3.2 swap
« Reply #11 on: 01 June 2011, 18:25:27 »

Bear in mind that when you do the conversion from auto to manul you will need to get the needle bearing for the block and the plastic clip. Once you have the gearbox in it wont go all the way in you will have about3-4 mm gap but this will close up with the bolts
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