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[Kevin Wood]

A code 31 just means the engine is stopped. It doesn't indicate an error (19 is what indicates a failed crank sensor).

Can you see live data on your code reader?

If so, let it warm up fully and you can verify that the engine coolant temperature reading is plausible without changing any more parts.

While you're there, have a look at the MAF sensor output (typically around 12kg/h at hot idle) and make sure that Lambda control for both banks has entered closed loop and both integrators are around the mid-point (127).

Have a look to ensure all the other readings are plausible. If possible post up the complete set and we'll see if anything looks odd.

[Sehen]

check the alternator pulley..

although I still think you may have problem with a cylinder or 2 (may be ignition related)  you can swap some sensors with the other miggy..[/quote]

What about the alternator pulley?
And yes, i think there is something with the ignition.
But is there a possibility that it can missfire only at idle and low rpm's, and at one sylinder only?
I thoght that the DIS pack had the coils in pairs, so it would cut 2sylinders at once, like the last DIS that failed on me...
Or is there a chance that it only runs on 5 syl. on idle, then missefires on another one, causing the shaking.

And I wont touch the DIS pack on my sons car, it have never been changed, so if I take it out from the car, it will certanly dissintegrate in my hands
As I said earlyer in my post, i will order the new improved tempsensor, as it is a cheap thing, and then try to change the DIS pack

[Sehen]

A code 31 just means the engine is stopped. It doesn't indicate an error (19 is what indicates a failed crank sensor).

Can you see live data on your code reader?

If so, let it warm up fully and you can verify that the engine coolant temperature reading is plausible without changing any more parts.

While you're there, have a look at the MAF sensor output (typically around 12kg/h at hot idle) and make sure that Lambda control for both banks has entered closed loop and both integrators are around the mid-point (127).

Have a look to ensure all the other readings are plausible. If possible post up the complete set and we'll see if anything looks odd.

I have the live data function, and will write the readings down and post them here. But i know that they are not the same, one bank is about 10 of, iirc. But i will post them later on
Thanks for answering 

[Sehen]

Ok! Here are the numbers :9
Fault code 15, colant temp. volt high, not present....

Ma f0,73-0,80 Whenidle fine, 0,75

Colant temp 1,13v 84deg.C

Intake temp 3,68V  16deg.C

Spark Angle 2-4 degres when fine, and 0-10 when engine shaking.

EGR at idle 0,62V Inactive

O2 sensor bank 1 117mV when fine, up to 800 when shaking..
Bank 2 the same...

O2 loop closed at both banks.

A/F both banks, changes from lean to rich...

Integrator bank 1 124 steps
Integrator bank 2 111 steps

Block 1 learn Map 166
nr 2                   64.....? What does that mean? The ECU is the same as the old engine who did have a leaking piston on bank 2...

IAC Integrator   128 steps
IAC Integrator slope 140 steps
IAC      150 steps
IAC Learn   132 steps

Desired Idle air 11
Actual Idle air  11-12 KG/h

Inj Pulse 3,4 to 3,5mS
Load 1,2

TPS 0%


Iterresting to see what you find out of these numbers..

[cem_devecioglu]

Ok! Here are the numbers :9
Fault code 15, colant temp. volt high, not present....

Ma f0,73-0,80 Whenidle fine, 0,75

Colant temp 1,13v 84deg.C

Intake temp 3,68V  16deg.C

Spark Angle 2-4 degres when fine, and 0-10 when engine shaking.EGR at idle 0,62V Inactive

O2 sensor bank 1 117mV when fine, up to 800 when shaking..
Bank 2 the same...

O2 loop closed at both banks.

A/F both banks, changes from lean to rich...

Integrator bank 1 124 steps
Integrator bank 2 111 steps

Block 1 learn Map 166
nr 2                   64.....? What does that mean? The ECU is the same as the old engine who did have a leaking piston on bank 2...

IAC Integrator   128 steps
IAC Integrator slope 140 steps
IAC      150 steps
IAC Learn   132 steps

Desired Idle air 11
Actual Idle air  11-12 KG/h

Inj Pulse 3,4 to 3,5mS
Load 1,2

TPS 0%


Iterresting to see what you find out of these numbers..

for some reason your engine is retarding ignition..

so it must have a knock..

initial guess, either timing incorrect or problem on some valves or faulty coil :-/

[Entwood]

or possibly a faulty/loose knock sensor

[Sehen]

Ok! Here are the numbers :9
Fault code 15, colant temp. volt high, not present....

Ma f0,73-0,80 Whenidle fine, 0,75

Colant temp 1,13v 84deg.C

Intake temp 3,68V  16deg.C

Spark Angle 2-4 degres when fine, and 0-10 when engine shaking.EGR at idle 0,62V Inactive

O2 sensor bank 1 117mV when fine, up to 800 when shaking..
Bank 2 the same...

O2 loop closed at both banks.

A/F both banks, changes from lean to rich...

Integrator bank 1 124 steps
Integrator bank 2 111 steps

Block 1 learn Map 166
nr 2                   64.....? What does that mean? The ECU is the same as the old engine who did have a leaking piston on bank 2...

IAC Integrator   128 steps
IAC Integrator slope 140 steps
IAC      150 steps
IAC Learn   132 steps

Desired Idle air 11
Actual Idle air  11-12 KG/h

Inj Pulse 3,4 to 3,5mS
Load 1,2

TPS 0%


Iterresting to see what you find out of these numbers..

for some reason your engine is retarding ignition..

so it must have a knock..

initial guess, either timing incorrect or problem on some valves or faulty coil :-/

Knock sensors inactive, forgot to wrigth that  down :-/

[Sehen]

Today, my problem got a little worse.... When we loaded up the old Omega on the trailer, we could hear my car shaking, or missfiering somethimes. But when i picked it up late this night, when cold, i started it up, and the engine shaked violently, and the tacho did jump between 0 and 2000rpm's when this happend.
I havent read out the fault codes yet, but there was no engine light.
Is it my ECU who's saying goodby to me, or what?

[cem_devecioglu]

Today, my problem got a little worse.... When we loaded up the old Omega on the trailer, we could hear my car shaking, or missfiering somethimes. But when i picked it up late this night, when cold, i started it up, and the engine shaked violently, and the tacho did jump between 0 and 2000rpm's when this happend.
I havent read out the fault codes yet, but there was no engine light.
Is it my ECU who's saying goodby to me, or what?

ECU's dont fail frequently.. there is a solenoid behind the air pipes (which causes the idle jump up down) .. and also check the air cable connections..

ps: misfiring tells me that you have a combined problem..

[v6man54deg Geffd]

They where renown for air leaks - either from the 6 O ring seals under the plenum - or the seals on the plastic adaptor for the breather system - there's two O rings on this part that go into the throttle body - and one large seal where the plastic part goes into the inlet plenum - usually if you spray carb cleaner around these parts the rpm with change if they are leaking.

If nothing can be found check with a vacuum gauge at idle
o2 sensors should bounce between rich & lean constantly

[Kevin Wood]

Right, the ignition timing is varied by the ECU to stabilise idle speed, so I'm not surprised that it's all over the place when the engine is misfiring. It's the ECU trying to compensate for the idle speed varying. It won't be knock sensor input, because they'll be inactive at idle anyway.

Everything else looks reasonable in the live data. Integrator slightly out on one bank, as you say, but I've seen worse.

Does the coolant temperature in the live data change when it starts misfiring? The fault code you have suggests that perhaps the wiring to the coolant temperature sensor has been intermittent. It may be nothing but, if the coolant temperature takes a dive due to a poor connection, the ECU could be enrichening the mixture leading to a misfire.

The other thing that strikes me as odd is that the rev counter is affected by the misfire. When the crank sensor was changed, was a genuine GM one used or a pattern part? It might be worth making sure the wiring to the crank sensor is routed well away from both the hot exhaust manifold and the coil pack and HT leads (route it up the inner wing and across to the cable tray on the 2,4,6 cam cover).

[Sehen]

The crank sensor is not a gm part... could it be so easy??
I'm goint to order it from the Uk, Vauxhall world... anyone heard about them? 1/3 of the price in Norway......
I have to change the cam cover gasket on the left bank also, so, is there any chance that the o-rings on the injektors are bad?
Thinking about changing all the gaskets and o-rings on the intake when it's of anyway.
About the tempsensor, havent seen any changes in live data, but maybe the refresh rate on my diagnostics isn't fast enough. When I have the plenum of, i check the sensor.
And no, the breather system works fine, and everything is open So it is the camcover gasket.

So thanks for the input folks, and i will order a genuine gm crank sensor and gaskets. And then i will se what happens. Stay tuned 

[Sehen]

Ok. bringing up my old post.
I haven't bathered to much about the DIS pack and Cranksensor, but a few days ago, my car just stalld on me.
I got the engine light on, and plugged in the diagnostic. Fault code 15, i think, the temp sensor. Live data showing minus 35 degres, when engine is about 70.
 I did pull out the plugs at nr. 3 and 4, and they only fire once in a hvile.
So, into the garage, rip everything apart. Changed the tempsensor, and the DIS pack. When investegating the DIS pack, i noticed the rusty iron core, and tryed to messure resistance betwin the cores in the middle and the outer one. over 60 ohm betvin them. Theres a small iron pice that connects the two cores, but the rust has made a bad connection. Anyvay, I did change it.
Cleaned up the crank ventilation system when i already had the plenum of. Not clogged, but had som build up of ressidues. Good to have it done, as it has 65.Kmiles on it
Took it out for a run, and did go very vell 
 Did have the little shaking left, but much less then before, almost not noticable
Back in the garage, and then change the cranksensor, because someone said the pattern one isnt good.
And couldn't notice any diffrence

So.... there is new sparkplugs, leads, DIS pack, tempsensor and cranksensor, but still some random shaking left, but hardly noticeable 

Could it be that both my ICV is worn out, as they have over 250K miles on them?
Or could it be one or both cat's that are furbish???

I'm all out of ideas now, but car runs vell and pulls evenly from 1500rpm even in 5'th gear, so the power is back in my Omega now

[Sehen]

Happy news, problem solved 
easy as s..t actually. My diagnose equipment is to slow, or the refresh rate on live data is...
After the DIS pack change, and it was running on all sylinders again, I was able to concentrate on the live data from the MAF sensor.
When it started to shake, the air flow wandered from 11 to 20 kg/h, but only vissible in 1 out of 5 times.
 So off it went and after a little ivestigation, it appeared to have some oil on it....( from the time when the car was taking a nap with the weels in the air)
Cleaned out with electronic cleaner, and then rinsed in destilled water. Now there is no  shaking, but only something that remindes of a random misfire 

I have read that the MAF sensor isn't very happy with oil, so is it damaged for good??