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[paul.lovejoy]

Glad your all sorted Tigger well heatings working again great to see all the good advice when you need it tis what i love about OOF

hot flush, what am i like

[Pitchfork]

I too have a Potterton Profile 80 & had the same problem
Called in a Plumber at huge expense who squirted WD 40 on the Honeywell 3 way valve shaft afer removing the solonoid
A quick couple of twists back & forth with a pair of pliers & it all worked again
I expect that is your problem

[TheBoy]

If the valve goes sticky, or the coils burn out, its only ever a temp fix. Ultimately, you will have to replace the valve.  Easy job, but has to be (partially) drained.

[Sir Tigger KC]

Thanks for all the replies and advice! 

The heating failed again this evening so I flicked the little switch on the valve and bingo she fired up!!    I think I'll try Pitchfork's plumbers method first and see how she goes.... 

[Marks DTM Calib]

Thanks for all the replies and advice! 

The heating failed again this evening so I flicked the little switch on the valve and bingo she fired up!!    I think I'll try Pitchfork's plumbers method first and see how she goes.... 

Lol, not such a great plumber though, a bit of lube is not actualy addressing the fault

[millwall]

as already said dont bother with the bodge  wont last long  generally a lot of plumbers will do a bodge as people want to save money  i get loads of calls to repair bodge jobs  hence the reason i mainly do commercial work    shame you werent local tigger would of done a freebie for you

[paul.lovejoy]

a freebie from a plumber you will be saying you clear up your own mess on site next

[millwall]

a freebie from a plumber you will be saying you clear up your own mess on site next

now your taking the mick paul  that will never happen

[paul.lovejoy]

lmao tell me about it feel like a plumbers bitch at times

[millwall]

lmao tell me about it feel like a plumbers bitch at times

ive heard many trades say exactly the same

[Sir Tigger KC]

as already said dont bother with the bodge  wont last long  generally a lot of plumbers will do a bodge as people want to save money  i get loads of calls to repair bodge jobs  hence the reason i mainly do commercial work  shame you werent local tigger would of done a freebie for you

Many Thanks Millwall!!    As said, I'll chuck some cleaning chemicals in the F/E tank and change the valve when I flush the system 

[Terbs]

My Central Heating packed up yesterday...thought it was the programmer, but after taking the body off....no power on the live side. Traced the wiring to a Honeywell junction box...blown F2A fuse.
However, Honeywell care, as in the corner of the box is a spare fuse.
Luv ya Honeywell....up and running again...swmbo impressed...brownie points

The question ahs to be though.......why did the fuse blow!

Its either the wrong rating and is being aged or there is an intermittent fault.....

Thats the question I always ask, mate, must be a reason. The old and new fuse fitted are correct ...F2AL, which are 'Glass Quick Blow' as stated in the control box.
Unit is two years old. There still could be a problem somewhere, only time will tell 

[Martian]

Thats the question I always ask, mate, must be a reason. The old and new fuse fitted are correct ...F2AL, which are 'Glass Quick Blow' as stated in the control box.
Unit is two years old. There still could be a problem somewhere, only time will tell 

Could be something as simple as old age or there was an intermittent spike on the mains at the time, how the fuse blows gives a good indication of whether there is a fault or not as well.

PS

The letter L in the fuse code denotes low breaking capacity as well as it being quickblow

[Kevin Wood]

Thats the question I always ask, mate, must be a reason. The old and new fuse fitted are correct ...F2AL, which are 'Glass Quick Blow' as stated in the control box.
Unit is two years old. There still could be a problem somewhere, only time will tell 

Could be something as simple as old age or there was an intermittent spike on the mains at the time, how the fuse blows gives a good indication of whether there is a fault or not as well.

PS

The letter L in the fuse code denotes low breaking capacity as well as it being quickblow

Yep. If the glass didn't break or at least go black too, you weren't even trying.

[Pitchfork]

If the valve goes sticky, or the coils burn out, its only ever a temp fix. Ultimately, you will have to replace the valve.  Easy job, but has to be (partially) drained.

Well FYI it occurred 4 years ago & the problem has not returned since so in my case it was not a temporary fix