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Author Topic: tramlining  (Read 5378 times)

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Old Faithful

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Re: tramlining
« Reply #30 on: 25 June 2012, 20:44:14 »

Poly bushes are only available to replace the front wishbone bush.

There has to be a bush there, or the ride would be intolerable.

Tyre profile being uppermost priority when it comes to tram lining. Keeping the original profile shape is most important.

 Best way to an appalling handling car...
Elite soft suspension
Enthusiastic driving
Shot bushes
Poor set up
Wide and or Falken tyres. My Elite had both.

It was rather lethal. Fronts would roll off high points, rears would clime out of low points. The car was all over the place. Falkens where barely half worn.

Soft suspension deflects the front camber easier. That is to say, as the suspension compresses the camber angle changes. Therefor tyre wear on the edges of the front tyres will always be an issue. (the rear does the opposite and wears the middle first)

So, it follows, and appears to be the case that
Firmer suspension
Poly bushes
Set up at Wim
Dunlop sport maxx/tt
Will give a much more planted and better handling car.
Irmscher or similar suspension gives WAY less body roll. Therefor camber deflection and tyre wear is kept to a minimum. Better handling, longer lasting tyres, a safer car to drive.

Note. The Dunlops give a very planted feel to the car. But are a bit soft and noisy. Conti Sc3, are a fraction less planted, but last longer, are quieter and last I looked where cheaper than the Dunlops.

On the modified set up I have yet to find the limit of the cars accuracy over any surface in a straight line. There was NO tramlining to be found when the tyre where new. Obviously tramlines could be felt through the suspension as it was high,low,high surface to drive over. The tyres are now getting worn and some slight tramlining is now kreeping in.

On the Elite set up on worn Falkens, it was impossible to drive faster than 40mpf on a bumpy B road. At its absolute best, the Elite suspension I would say was 40% worse than the modified set up at its worst. A different world.

Tighten up the chassis bushes, replace any worn or broken chassis parts.
Set it up to -1.10 camber via Wim settings. Ignore vx settings they are shite.
Fit new tyres. Best you can afford. (Not Falkens)
As a minimum price guide I wouldn't fit anything cheaper than Kumho Ku31 etc.... But needs must and all that.

The Sc3's wear very well and give fantastic grip wet or dry.



But then, not everyone wants a firm set up, or even needs it. If your a steady driver, you shouldn't get so many problems, in theory.

Hth.

Couldn't agree more about the Falkens.  The Pirellis that were fitted from new on my 2600 CDX Estate were fine even when they were coming to the end of their life but the Falken ZE 912s that I fitted all round were dreadful for tramlining from the word go.
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feeutfo

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Re: tramlining
« Reply #31 on: 26 June 2012, 00:51:33 »

Yes tramlining from the start here too. On 2 different omegas, 451,452,912 all the same.


Why did I persist buying 3sets consecutively? I could not believe a tyre could cause this fault, and they exceptionally quiet. Proven to be Falkens with thanks to Kevin Wood and TheBoy who allowed me to swap wheels the theirs both shod with Dunlops as it happens, and both very worn.
 Worn out Dunlos fitted, problem vanished. Drove straight as a die. Regained my sanity that day let me tell you. ;D
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