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[Toledodude1973]

Does sound similar to my ECU problems, the only way i could start it was to have ignition lights on, then unplug ecu ,then re-plug in,it would start but only in kind-of limp mode it also ran very hot but did show ecu was at fault

[Toledodude1973]

Forgot to add Zirk i had Lazydocker and Twiglet round with tech2 and couldn't communicate with ecu on either device which sounds similar to yours, i changed all three items ecu ,key transponders, and bit under steering wheel----car is still going great(cheers Al)        hope you sort it soon

[zirk]

Sounds daft  . But is it an Auto and moved gear selector ?

That caught me out on Wife's VW as stopped car on drive, engine off, opened garage, tried to start car and nowt !!!!! Only the sound of various relays saying NO !!!  All rather embarrassing after 10 mins of threatening to take car apart as noticed was in Drive still.  Popped into Park and started a treat 

Not sure if this same on Omega Auto as mine is a Manual 

Thanks Checked That already. 

[zirk]

Check the transponder chip in the key .. it "may" have come loose from its housing and be moving inside the key, it doesn't have to move far to stop the immobilisor doing its job .. which is what the flashing EML is telling you.

It's a very small, black rectangular shaped bit of plastic, sits in a little "detent" in the key near the base of the blade...

Quick dab of superglue sorts it .. been there, got the T shirt .. but was in France at the time and stuck until it was sussed !!

Thanks tried second Key still the same. 

[zirk]

Does sound similar to my ECU problems, the only way i could start it was to have ignition lights on, then unplug ecu ,then re-plug in,it would start but only in kind-of limp mode it also ran very hot but did show ecu was at fault

OK I'll try that now. 


Keep them coming guys as Im nearly out of ideas here. 

[zirk]

Does sound similar to my ECU problems, the only way i could start it was to have ignition lights on, then unplug ecu ,then re-plug in,it would start but only in kind-of limp mode it also ran very hot but did show ecu was at fault

OK I'll try that now. 
Keep them coming guys as Im nearly out of ideas here. 

Ok tried that, unplugging ECU stops the clicking, then plugging back in still no clicking had to try 2 or 3 times before Engine would start, once started straight into Limp mode with multiple Codes.

TBH, I would expect that, plugging ECU in with Ing on, wouldn't really give the ECU a chance to cycle up properly.

Reset codes, when it does start seems fine, no Limp.

[Big_Al]

Does sound similar to my ECU problems, the only way i could start it was to have ignition lights on, then unplug ecu ,then re-plug in,it would start but only in kind-of limp mode it also ran very hot but did show ecu was at fault

OK I'll try that now. 
Keep them coming guys as Im nearly out of ideas here. 

Ok tried that, unplugging ECU stops the clicking, then plugging back in still no clicking had to try 2 or 3 times before Engine would start, once started straight into Limp mode with multiple Codes.

TBH, I would expect that, plugging ECU in with Ing on, wouldn't really give the ECU a chance to cycle up properly.

Reset codes, when it does start seems fine, no Limp.

Your problem does seem similar to what Toledodude Paul was getting Chris

whats your next move ?

[zirk]

Does sound similar to my ECU problems, the only way i could start it was to have ignition lights on, then unplug ecu ,then re-plug in,it would start but only in kind-of limp mode it also ran very hot but did show ecu was at fault

OK I'll try that now. 
Keep them coming guys as Im nearly out of ideas here. 

Ok tried that, unplugging ECU stops the clicking, then plugging back in still no clicking had to try 2 or 3 times before Engine would start, once started straight into Limp mode with multiple Codes.

TBH, I would expect that, plugging ECU in with Ing on, wouldn't really give the ECU a chance to cycle up properly.

Reset codes, when it does start seems fine, no Limp.

Your problem does seem similar to what Toledodude Paul was getting Chris

whats your next move ?

Wish I knew mate, cold, wet, hungry, could murder a Beer. 

I not sure, in the back of my head I have this nagging feel that its not the ECU but something somewhere pissing the ECU off.

So far,

Checked Volts etc, and checked for voltage difference  between Battery and Engine, seem all ok,

Checked the two purple relays, they seem to be ok.

Changed Keys, gone through the Lock up Unlock proceedure.

I can hear a very faint whine from arounf the Plenlium, guessing this fuel pressure but why would you get that with Ing. on, only happens when things are clicking.

The Clicking is Purple Relays, Throttle Body, i think something from the back of Engine and when left along for a while clicking fuel pump prime, the Clicking on off is in sync with the flashing EML and Spanner.

[Entwood]

The flashing EML is an indication of an imobilisor problem preventing the engine starting ...perhaps the immobilsor system is sending odd signals to the ECU even when it allows starting ??

[zirk]

The flashing EML is an indication of an imobilisor problem preventing the engine starting ...perhaps the immobilsor system is sending odd signals to the ECU even when it allows starting ??

Its the EML and Spanner light, its not a constant flash rate, sometimes rapid, intermittent and sometime stops for a few seconds, when it stops flashing this is the only chance you get to start it, ie, before it starts flashing again.

[05omegav6]

Making a note of what lives where... remove all the relays/fuses from the ecu box, the five/six large fuses, the ecu and unplug the three round plugs next to the battery.

Cover everything with a liberal dose of WD40, leave covered over night.

In the morning refit everything and try again

[Big_Al]

Chris,
          Toledodudes ECU failure was the first that almost all on here had ever  heard of  . . .  I'm thinking that it could  be the start of it being  a more common occurance on the 2.6 /3.2 models due to the ongoing age of the engine ECU's on  these models .

With Pauls one  .  . the general opinion was that something was mis informing the ECU  . .  A change of ECU & it's related bits

sorted the problem  for him  . . . so if there was another fault  elsewhere . . surely the "new" ECU would have acted the same &

played up 

Setting up a temporary  replacement ECU & it's required  bits ,  as Paul did ,  to see if the fault is fixed would be my way of going

on this I think .

[Entwood]

The flashing EML is an indication of an imobilisor problem preventing the engine starting ...perhaps the immobilsor system is sending odd signals to the ECU even when it allows starting ??

Its the EML and Spanner light, its not a constant flash rate, sometimes rapid, intermittent and sometime stops for a few seconds, when it stops flashing this is the only chance you get to start it, ie, before it starts flashing again.

That actually makes sense ... as while its flashing the imobilsor is saying "not allowed to start", once it stops flashing its happy to allow a start ...

Question now is why is the imobilisor upset, and intermittently so ... not the key as you've tried both, so, ... have you disturbed the detector ring at the ignition key area ?? have you checked the wiring around the ignition key area ..... as thats were the detector is ...

Just random thoughts as I think its imobilisor linked ...

[05omegav6]

Or moisture has made its way to the ECU plugs given the jet washing... and two keys having the same problem... especially if it was fine prior to the sprucing up

[zirk]

Making a note of what lives where... remove all the relays/fuses from the ecu box, the five/six large fuses, the ecu and unplug the three round plugs next to the battery.

Cover everything with a liberal dose of WD40, leave covered over night.

In the morning refit everything and try again

Did think about them Multi Connectors Al, but was started to get too dark and wet to persue that one, will have a look though.