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[berserkerboy]

But the sizes are right?

[raywilb]

Hi folks.

Downer! ATS tester just failed the old girl.

1. Nearside front from flex brake pipe excessive corrosion. This pipe appears to go to the hydraulic modulator. I have rubbed away the surface rust and there is clean metal underneath. However, I don't suppose the tester will appreciate me telling him it was okay really, in fact I suppose I don't know that it is! Guess I'll have to replace it

2. Rear from flex to caliper brake pipe excessive corrosion on both sides. Haven't had time to look at this yet but suspect the same as above.

3. Offside rear brake hose ferrule excessive corrosion.

4. Then the wishbones need doing as one side has excessive play. Can get lemforder at Rock Auto for about £125 delivered.

So there is a fairly comprehensive guide on the wishbones that I can follow.

The brake lines though. What is the best way of doing these. I'm happy doing my domestic plumbing so can this be much harder? Can I just drain out the existing fluid. Disconnect the corroded pipe sections. Get new ones made up at a motor factor. Reconnect and bleed?

I use an easybleeed kit & let the air in a tyre pump the fluid through. the kit I use iv,e had 20yrs so ha been a good buy, 

[berserkerboy]

Disaster.

Am doing the brake lines myself. Got the 2 back ones done but when I went to bleed the rear driver side the bleed nipple broke off! This despite plusgas soaking overnight.

What am I to do. New caliper?

[chrisgixer]

Easy outs? Drills and tap? Then fit new nipple?

[berserkerboy]

I've a set of these that have never been used. Also have a tap and die set. I'll let you know how I get on. Any idea what size replacement nipple I need to order? M7 or M8 my brother in law thinks.

[berserkerboy]

Have ordered from brake parts uk. 

[terry paget]

Bit late now, but I always undo brake nipples very gingerly, always with a deep hex socket and a 'T' handle. If it does not release on gentle torque I hammer around the caliper side by the nipple and try again. This may help before using the easy out tools.
Nipples ofter break off, 'cos they're hollow, so weak, and may have been overtightened by gorilla who last changed the braked fluid. I carry spare calipers off scrapped cars in case.

[berserkerboy]

It was rooky error with the bleed nipple on the driver rear. As the passenger side had undone okay I was probably a bit too gung ho! The front passenger side was similarly seized. I took a small rotary wire wheel to the base of the nipple and soaked with plus gas. After a while I tried again and it came undone quite easily. Incidently, the brake line that I had to replace at the front which went to the ABS unit was bad news. The 10mm nut was rounding off rather than coming undone. In the end I had to cut the pipe next to the nut and then get a 1/4" socket onto it. Similar situation where it went to the flexi.
So just have to try to easy out the broken rear nipple. Am waiting for the new ones to arrive before I do this.

Have started to do the wishbones. My main concern is removing the HID sensor. This is severely corroded at the fixing to the wishbone. Am I right in thinking that it is the nut underneath the wishbone that needs to be undone? Everything has been sprayed with plus gas as prep for getting the spanners going tomorrow.

Thanks everyone for your input so far.

[berserkerboy]

Wishbones are off. A lot easier than I had expected. HID sensor was the tricky bit. I found it easiest to disconnect the alloy strut where it connects to the sensor, 2x 10mm nuts clamp it and these where the least corroded nuts of the assembly. With the wishbone on the bench I was then able to remove the bracket.
Should get new wishbones on an overnight tomorrow and new bleed nipple on Tuesday. Hoping the brake lines I have made are good enough. No leakage visible with pressure from the easi bleed but wont know for sure until I stamp on them.

[berserkerboy]

Putting the new wishbones on. What is the torque value for the rear bolt. Is it the same 120NM as the front?

[berserkerboy]

Just found this:


Also, has anyone got the torque values for:

- Front and Rear Wishbone Bush
- Steering Knuckle to Suspension Strut
- Pinch Pin Bolt on Steering Knucle

Cheers in advance..


respectively:

120Nm / 89 lbf ft, then 30 degrees, then 15 degrees
90Nm / 66 lbf ft, then 45 degrees, then 15 degrees
100Nm / 74 lbf ft

... all from the book of lies 

[05omegav6]

That is correct, but if NOT fitting polybushes, the wishbone bolts MUST be torqued with the weight of the car on the wheels.

This cannot be stressed loudly enough.

[berserkerboy]

Okay. I have lemforder from car parts 4 less. Are these polybushed? Also, I know front bolt has a special sequence of tightening with the weight of the car on it, but what about the rear?

[chrisgixer]

Okay. I have lemforder from car parts 4 less. Are these polybushed? Also, I know front bolt has a special sequence of tightening with the weight of the car on it, but what about the rear?

Not poly bushed, owners have to fit those. They are a separate part to the wishbone involving cutting out the old rubber bush, and fitting the poly which just push in by hand.

Rearward bush can be tightened as is, it doesn't matter.

It's the front oe RUBBER bush that MUST be tightened wheels loaded.

[berserkerboy]

Okay thanks. Got the driver side wishbone on last night with difficulty. Had to use an old bolt from underneath to align rear bush with holes in frame and then gently tap through. Nothing tightened yet. Thank god the weather has been kind to me as working outside.